View Full Version : M22 Shower Connection Access

07-19-2010, 01:54 AM
On a 2010 M22, how do I gain access to the water connections for the outside shower. These connections must be located in the bottom of the closet between the bunks and bathroom.

From the water heater compartment there is no apparent access to the connections. I can see the water lines passing into the cabinet through a hole, but there is no access panel.

From the panel below the closet door with the propane detector it is not apparent this panel can be removed.

The floor of the cabinet is not removable. There is no access from the bathroom or the outside of the trailer?

This weekend I had water seeping from under the base of the closet any time the lines were pressurized. There was no water in the bathroom or three compartments under the bunk (water heater compartment, power converter compartment, storage compartment). The obvious culprit seems to be the shower which has no apparent access.

I verified the exterior shower valves were off and any trapped pressure at the shower head was relieved so I don't think this was a matter of the shower running water into the unit.

Thanks in advance.

07-26-2010, 02:20 AM
It's a very thin piece of laminate in my M22 at the bottom of the cabinet shelf. I took it off last winter to see what was under there. Just a few nails if I remember right. Seeing as the water pump under the end of the bed on mine was also under a nailed down piece of laminate (why Heartland?) I thought I better check to see what was behind the outside taps but didn't find any leaks in mine.


07-26-2010, 09:08 AM
I've discovered how to reproduce this leak. It doesn't visibly leak when the lines are under pressure only from the pump. When I say visibly leak, I mean that there is no water seeping under the cabinet onto the floor outside. When I turn on the hot water heater the first time for a trip the lines build enough pressure from thermal expansion to leak water. This occurs both when the system had no initial pressure (pump off and bled down to no flow) and when the lines were pressurized with the pump.

It is surprising to me how much pressure builds in the system just from thermal expansion of the water. Give it a try, de-pressurize your system. Close the faucets, turn on the water heater and let it get to full temperature, turn on your hot water and watch it flow!

I've found a good workaround that prevents water from flowing out on the floor. Turn off the water pump. Open the hot water valve in the sink then turn on the water heater. This enables any pressure build from thermal expansion to bleed off.

I guess taking the bottom of the cabinet out is the only way to access the area, should be fun for the people doing the warranty work on this fix. I considered taking it out for a look myself. Required prying out two pieces of trim stapled in with about 6 staples and two more pieces with about 6 screws. I tentatively pried on the stapled in board and saw it wasn't going to be easy...

Hopefully no mold in the enclosed cabinet where the leak is at...

07-27-2010, 01:07 AM
If you still want to check yourself, I think I pushed the board down (it bends) rather than prying it up - but it did break a little, so you may want to let the service people do that. There isn't anything supporting it in the middle underneath, not a very heavy duty shelf. I just left it off and moved the bottom shelf all the way to the bottom so I could see and check just in case something started leaking.

07-27-2010, 08:54 AM
That's a good idea Greg. I think I'll talk to the service guys about either modifying the cabinet so the base can be easily removed for inspection or just have them put the bottom shelf in place of the panel.