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View Full Version : 2007 Bighorn Landing Jacks ( I am confused)



davesch
11-19-2011, 10:11 PM
My first post on our new (used) 2007 2925 Bighorn . Is it possible there are 2 different controllers on this unit? There is the standard switch in the front which is retract and extend and appears these are hydraulic. Worked fine yesterday and both legs go up and down at the same level. There is also a rocker switch in the font compartment. When I was trying to see what this switch does, I pressed it so it rocked up and I heard a motor noise. Well after doing this a few times I realized the left side of the trailer had raised and now the trailer is lopsided. So, I press the rocker switch down and nothing happens. Press it up and appears the left side goes higher. Anyway. not sure what kind of system this has ( maybe a hybrid) but wondering if others have seen this? Appears I am going to need to get the truck under it, retract the jacks and start over never to touch this rocker switch again..

Appreciate anyone who has experience with this.

Oh, also, there are 2 rotary dials that appear to have something to do with the hydraulics, they area also in the front compartment they can each rotate pointed down or up. Any ideas what these do?

Thanks for your help

Dave

jimtoo
11-19-2011, 10:44 PM
Hi Dave,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

The front legs should be electric motor driven by one motor on the door side with a shaft going across the front compartment to the other side. There has been times when a bolt that connects the shaft to the legs has broken or nut came off and fell out, so that only the leg on the door side would work. We need to know for sure what you have, someone may have converted to hydraulic front legs, but not likely. So open the front compartment and look and see what you have. The rocker switch in the front, I guess side compartment, should be for the hydraulic slides,,, here again,, if someone has changed the front gear to hydraulic, there would need to be a cut off valve or separate control for the legs.

I think you need to really get someone that knows about these things involved... a neighbor,, friend or someone that has a little experience with them. Also if you could post some pictures of the jacks and controls it would help a lot.

Let us know what you find.

Jim M

davesch
11-19-2011, 11:55 PM
Thanks for the quick reply Jim. You are correct it must be the mains are electric, and it does have the bar controlling both at the same time. When the other switch ( the 1 I mentioned in the first post) is pressed inside the battery compartment, the bar does not rotate but the unit appears to be tilting. I will look tomorrow when it is light and look closer as well as take some pictures.
Thanks
Dave

jimtoo
11-20-2011, 12:52 AM
Dave, the switch in the side compartment should be an auxiliary or second switch for your hydraulic slides. When outside and pushing the switch, and if unit not does not have all jacks down, it might appear that the unit is tilting a little as the slides go out... I think they are both on the off door side and the weight would cause it to lean a little.

Jim M

Ray LeTourneau
11-20-2011, 07:07 AM
Dave, in addition to what Jim is saying, the two rotary knobs are for shutting off the flow of hydraulics to the individual slide rooms. The intent is to allow you to open only one or the other as needed. The switch inside the front compartment Should have no effect on the side to side level of the rig, only the slides.
Make sure the bolt in the cross shaft is intact. It is located directly above the motor that is higher up and to the right in the front compartment. The picture is from behind the motor showing a support modification to keep the bolt from rubbing on the motor.

davesch
11-20-2011, 09:52 AM
Thanks for the info. I thought later that the purpose of those know\bs was for that. However, now the slide won't go in or out. No power any idea where the fuse is? I checked the fuse inside but there must be a reset somewhere else?

If this needs to be posted some other forum, please let me know!

THanks
Dave

davesch
11-20-2011, 10:02 AM
Well, Nevermind ( As Gilda Radner used to say ). I found the circuit breaker, reset and all is good. Not sure if the rocker switch inside should allow retraction of the slide also, but not a big deal today.

Anyone know what the electric switch , inside the 2 door cabinet, on the far right side, inside the coach does?

I am having too much fun with this, can't wait to actually use it!

Thanks
Dave

wdk450
11-20-2011, 10:42 AM
Dave:
First of all, the system is usually referred to as "Landing Gear" in 5th wheels. If you put that term into the search bar at the top right of the forum you are going to see a LOT of threads.
2nd, the current crop of BIG Heartland 5th wheels (Bighorn, Landmark) now have Hydraulic landing gear standard. These are desireable as they don't have the complex gears and screw drive mechanisms that have problems. The only problem I have heard of is if the hydraulics leak, and the gear goes down.
I hope this helps.

JohnDar
11-20-2011, 11:04 AM
Take a closer look at your landing gear set up. As mentioned, a 2007 is most likely electric unless it was upgraded to hydraulic. What you may have are two separate electric motors on your left and right landing gear. That was also something that could be added post-factory by an owner with basic mechanical skills.

slmayor
11-20-2011, 11:59 AM
I'll take a stab at the switch question. On mine, (an early 08) the switch on the far right controls an outlet under the awning near the top of the trailer. Handy if you plug in awning lights and want to turn them off rather than unplug them.

davesch
11-20-2011, 07:49 PM
Just a short note to say Thanks for all the help! I'll check out the outlet by the awning and bet you are correct. Never thought that the switch would work that outlet! Also will try a search on "landing gear" thanks for the advice!

Been out working on removing rust from the undercarriage today. Unit was in a lot of weather.

THe stabilizing jack ( rear) motor is not working properly. Maybe now would be a good time to find a hydraulic system, however, funds a little short since just purchased this. Will be back with more questions I am sure.

Thanks again!
Dave

JohnDar
11-20-2011, 08:03 PM
Remove the rear stabilizer motor and dissassemble it. Bet you find the springs for the brushes are corroded and weak, if working at all. I fixed mine by cutting down the spring from a ball point pen and sticking it in there.

Or just take it to an electric motor repair shop and get it done "professionally."

Based on your original post, it still seems odd that the awning outlet switch would cause one jack to extend, as you described. My awning outlet switch is inside the rig, not in the hydraulic compartment.

davesch
11-20-2011, 10:28 PM
John:

Will be taking the motor apart soon. Regarding the switch, sorry for the confusion. The switch inside does work the outlet by the awning. THe swich ion the battery compartment was actuallly to extend the slides if wanting to use that switch. Seems that we really did not have the unit level before starting all of this and we imagined the trailer had shifted to the right when actually it was our mistake.
Dave

JohnDar
11-21-2011, 10:21 AM
Dave,
That makes sense. New rig, new switches, new learning curve. BTDT.

In regards to the rear stabilizer motor, when mine crapped out we were getting ready to bring it home at the end of the season. The hand crank is actually pretty easy to use. Even more so with the motor off since you're not fighting it (and you've lubed the drive screw rod). The crank rod looks like it will fit either end, with the motor off, since the fitting the motor armature slips into is the same as the one for the crank. So if the motor is not repairable, it's not the end of the world or necessary to run out and buy a new one. Could even rig up an adapter of sorts to use an electric drill to run them up and down.

davesch
11-23-2011, 10:56 PM
Just a final follow up on the motor... I took it apart and it was all corroded inside. For a motor that is 3 years old I was shocked at all the corrosion and rust inside the motor casing. (One of the brushes corroded stuck open) I cleaned it all up, lubed it, reassembled it and used 100% silicone when putting it together. There should be no more corrosion inside this motor!. Why they ( the moto mfg) would not seal this motor better is beyond me. Of course the more replacement motors sold at almost $500 a pop, better for them!

Thanks for all the advice and Happy Thanksgiving!
Dave

JohnDar
11-24-2011, 09:54 AM
Just a final follow up on the motor... I took it apart and it was all corroded inside. For a motor that is 3 years old I was shocked at all the corrosion and rust inside the motor casing. (One of the brushes corroded stuck open) I cleaned it all up, lubed it, reassembled it and used 100% silicone when putting it together. There should be no more corrosion inside this motor!. Why they ( the moto mfg) would not seal this motor better is beyond me. Of course the more replacement motors sold at almost $500 a pop, better for them!

Thanks for all the advice and Happy Thanksgiving!
Dave

Yup, and they're made in India. A manufacturing cess pool second only to China. Mine was corroded inside, as well.