Semi-Major Roof Repair

Gang:
When backing into my space at the Cody rally, I think I made some side/roof contact with a tree at the doorside endcap/side curved edge connection. I discovered a switch of tree branch on the awning support, and didn't think anything of it. Well, 3 days and 1200 miles later my RV park neighbor pointed out the MAJOR roof damage to me. The metal round piece connecting the roof and top side is dented in 2 1/2 inched where it tucks under the roof cap. The EDPM membrane is torn there and 4 other points along the side on back.


I talked to my RV repairer. He wants me to make an insurance claim ($1000 deductable) and replace the entire EDPM roof for over $6000. I just moved to this insurance company this year, and only pay a $250 premium. I don't feel good about making this size claim, and think the roof can be effectively repaired for a lot less.


I checked out the rubber roof membrane manufacturer, Dicor's, website. They have rolls of self adhesive repair membrane along with paint-on membrane. A repair video I found there says to cut out torn sections in an oval shape with a razor knife, cut a patch to fit the cut-out oval within 1/16 inch of the oval dimensions, stick the patch down to the roof surface, roll it down good with a roller, and seal up the 1/16 gaps with the paint-on membrane.


This is all fine and good for the membrane repair, but what do I do about the dented in roof corner? My repairer says they somehow access the dented in area from the inside of the trailer and hammer it out, but I can't see how to take the inside ceiling apart in the closet to do this. I was thinking of getting some metal flashing and fashioning a repair piece to go over the dented in section using pop rivets to hold the repair piece in place like a section I found on repairing metal roof problems. I would then use the EPDM patch membrane and liquid EPDM over the metal piece, and recaulk the endcap connection.


Sorry, I can't seem to successfully upload photos again. I just did some on my tires eariler in the week.




Any advice/suggestions???

My repairer says they somehow access the dented in area from the inside of the trailer and hammer it out, but I can't see how to take the inside ceiling apart in the closet to do this.

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Bill, does your BH have a laminated roof? Your repairer's proposed solution gives me pause to wonder if he knows what he's doing.

Your ideas for the repair sound ok to me, but my expertise in this area is low. Because of that, my DW would insist on the new roof; she would say it's too bad about the new insurance company paying out $5K against $250 income. That's the nature of insurance.

Your decision may come down to weighing the likelihood of the lesser repair working as well as the greater repair. If it doesn't work completely, or doesn't last, do you then end up with water damage?

But if you go for a new roof, you might want to get other estimates. And your insurance adjuster is likely to have suggestions for repair shops that know what they're doing.

Bill-

I whole-heartedly vote for, and admire, your willingness to repair the damage yourself. There is no way I would pay $6,000, to either a dealer, or anyone else, to completely replace the roof. Heck, that's a decent down-payment on a brand new unit.

I would definitely attempt this repair myself. But then again, I'm a glutton for punishment, my last RV was a greyhound bus I converted into a motor home, including the engine and transmission upgrade.

I agree the patch is the way to go, A piece of stainless steel, shaped properly, should do the trick. I would also use stainless steel, or aluminum rivets. Once the patch is in place I believe the proper covering material would suffice. I don't think caulking would be needed as long as the proper roof repair materials were used. I have used the liquid repair material on RV roofs, and they are easy to use and amazing when it comes to sealing leaks.

If you decide to do this, good luck.

Have another repair facility look at it and ask them why would an entire roof need to be put on. Without photos of the dented in area or what matl the corner is made of (assume fiberglass or alum) you might be able to fill it in and shape it nicely with Bondo. I know of many people that have put the roof patch stuff on and has worked ok. What I can't figure out is why would not a repair facility do it?

If it was me I would either use metal screws or 1/2 collasped pop rivits and pull out the dent in the aluminum flashing on the radius and then patch it with eterna-bond roof repair tape, its just a peel & stick job then. Actually the seam repair kit may work, its 6" wide and 10' long.

why would an entire roof need to be put on

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The dealer may want to put on a new roof rather than a patch so there's no likelihood of a future dispute if in the future there's water damage in that area. And of course, they'll make a lot of profit putting on a new roof.

Another consideration for you is trade-in/resale value. If you were buying a used RV, and there was a patched-up area of the roof, would that RV be your first choice or would you keep looking?

If the tear is in the same place the dent is, rent a dent puller. It will require a small screw hole to be put in the metal and then pull the dent out. You cam then fill the small hole with silocone and then patch the roof.

Bill

Here is a link to what one looks like, you can get them at auto zone or any auto prts store. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...rage-case/_/N-25yt?itemIdentifier=265148_0_0_

Bill

Bill,

Sorry to hear about the owie

The radius metal I believe is aluminum. You can likely order it from Heartland. If pulling the dent out is not viable, maybe overlaying a new piece of radiused aluminum is a good way to go - short of a new roof.

As far as beating the dent out from the inside, yeah, I don't see that working at all. The roof and the wall are tied together. The roof has a flat flange along the long sides. That space on top is usually used as a wiring chase. Then the radius is attached and the rubber membrane pulled over that and down under the drip rails.

Jim

On edit: Some pics I snapped at the plant a couple years back.

If the guy that says to access it from the inside then pound it out is the same guy that gave you the $6,000 repair estimate..I'd start by getting someone else to look at it...Don

jbeletti said:

On edit: Some pics I snapped at the plant a couple years back.

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Great pictures - Thanks Jim! Now I know where all the roof wiring is run from the coach walls.

Bill - I have removed drip rails before (to replace damaged drip rail). It should not be too much trouble to do this and lift the EPDM to access the Aluminum radius piece. I would repair the EPDM with Dicor patches if not too bad of a rip. Got pictures?

Take care,
Brian

A sheet metal place should be able to match that. I used to work in the heating and A/C field and could make that pretty easy. Just take a section to them and I am sure they can replicate it.

Well, I have been putting off getting this done. It's been hot in Sacramento, 103 yesterday afternoon. It never rains in Sacramento in mid summer, especially when it is hot, so why worry? Well guess what snuck up on us last night, unpredicted by the weather guys? Lightning and a small amount of rain from southern Mexico "monsoons". I guess I better fix the roof today.