8-point screws

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Also know as double square drive. There was a post about finding a bit for them. My rig doesn't have them, but the cargo trailer I'm modifying for the FD does. Tried the #2 square drive bit in one and promptly rounded out the recess. Searched online and no such animal exists as a bit. I was going to replace the roof vent on the trailer, but the manufacturer put it on with a bazillion of those screws. So I ended up just replacing the cap and put a MaxxAir cover on it.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I really can't understand the "engineering" behind that 8-point drive head. Supposedly, it so that you can orient a #2 square bit easier. But it makes the lands so small that rounding them off is extremely easy, especially if the metal is soft, like aluminum or stainless steel, and the screw has been in place for a long time. Anyway, I returned the vent assembly and got the replacement cap, which was all that was really needed anyways. This trailer will transport our cache of trench and structural collapse shoring equipment.
 

porthole

Retired
John, I have a bunch of those 8 pointers on my bike trailer. I have had good luck with Milwaukee's "shockwave" line of bits and drivers.
 

porthole

Retired
This trailer will transport our cache of trench and structural collapse shoring equipment.

Our department has one too. Geniuses. They finally realized that those of us that tow actually may know what we are talking about. And you really can't safely tow a 10,500 pound trailer loaded to 14K plus with an F-250 and no working trailer brakes.

They are also starting to realize that if you are not used to towing, you probably should not let just anyone back it up :rolleyes:
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Our department has one too. Geniuses. They finally realized that those of us that tow actually may know what we are talking about. And you really can't safely tow a 10,500 pound trailer loaded to 14K plus with an F-250 and no working trailer brakes.

They are also starting to realize that if you are not used to towing, you probably should not let just anyone back it up :rolleyes:

Don't I know it. There was an incident last summer while I was away that they felt they needed to pull the trailer. So they slapped the ball hitch on the dept. 2500 pickup and off they went. First thing they did was rip the rear stabilizer jacks off (warned them that I had put them down) going out a driveway. Then they complained that the trailer kept bouncing like it wasn't connected. Seems they used a 2" ball instead of the 2 5/16" one. And they had no trailer brakes (I told them that I had disconnected the battery). Ended up they didn't need the gear and it was all over the trailer since I hadn't started modifying the inside for it.

The trailer is a 36 footer, with a GVWR of 10,000lbs. and a cargo capacity of 6060lbs. I've been keeping a record of everything I've put into it, down to the weight of the screws, so we don't exceed it.

Here's earlier photos of the strut mountings (both sides of trailer) and the two center cribs I made for the raker rails and wales. Still working on it now that the weather has finally broken around here.
 

porthole

Retired
We are doing our trench rescue training this month, I'll snap some pics when we get to the hole.

Should be interesting this year. Geniuses left "Hose Head" in the bottom of the trench when it was filled in last year.
 

57chevy

Member
Hey Guys
I`m Kyle with Straightline Innovations. I see some of you have been looking for the correct bit to use when removing and adding new screws to your trailer. The 8 point double square bits work well but the #2 square bit will also work. The trouble is that some of the screws are very hard to get out without rounding the screw or the bit. The best way I have found to get the tough ones out is to put the bit in 1/4" nut driver and tap the end of the driver with a hammer while turning the driver counter clockwise. This helps loosen the screw and keep from rounding anything.
Hope this helps!
 
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