View Full Version : water freezes in the supply line

cabin fever
06-06-2008, 08:21 PM
I have an 08 3010 that I use year round and when the night temps dip below freezing the supply line freezes but it will unthaw when the temps rise. What can be done to help this? I have come to the conclusion that when temps stay below freezing I will have to have a 50 gal. barrel in the garage with some type of heat. Hook the winterizing bypass valve to the barrel inside the trailer and blow out the lines after use.

06-09-2008, 04:13 PM
You can use heat tape and insulation on your supply hose. You also could add heating pads to your holding tanks and use your on-board fresh water tanks instead of having a hose connected all the time.

06-09-2008, 06:38 PM
Like htneighbors said With my Landmark I found that if I fill the tanks when it is going to freeze and set the valves to draw from the tank and turn on the water pump but stay hooked up to city water as long as I have pressure from the supply line it furnishes water to the trailer but if the water line freezes and the pressure drops the pump will kick in and pump water from the fresh water tank. I am not sure if the other models will operate like this but it works on my Landmark.


cabin fever
06-09-2008, 08:37 PM
I guess I should have mentioned that it was the supply line from fw tank to the pump that freezes. I thought that the 5ers had heat in the belly. The 3010 TT has no heat vents to the belly and only covered with black corrugated plastic. I wonder if it would do any good because it is not sealed good.
thanks for your input.

06-09-2008, 09:41 PM
According to the Heartland site, All of the Cyclones have enclosed and heated underbellys. I would take this to the dealer and have it checked out. There really isn't a vent for the underbelly, it is just a air tube duct that lays on the floor behind the wall. It may be that the tube is obstructed in some way. You could look behind the wall should be an easy fix.

06-10-2008, 06:31 PM
You could bring it down here, 106 as I type this.

06-10-2008, 06:32 PM
You could bring it down here, 106 as I type this.

That'll thaw it! :D

11-03-2008, 02:17 AM
I have been digging under my camper all weekend trying to insulate it for winter. I found that the supply line from the fresh water tank to the pump is right next to the frame going under a cross member that puts the hose laying against the corrugated plastic underbelly with no insulation underneath it. It is sandwiched at the very bottom outside of the insulation area so there really isn't much heat getting to it. I will be insulating that hose with pipe insulation and trying to find a better way to route it but I don't think that is possible. There is a hole cut out through that crossmember where the fill hose goes but there isn't enough room for the feed lines to go through there. I haven't figured out if I can drill another hole through the cross member because it may weaken that member.

I also took the time to attach cross braces to the frame underneath and I have cut the under belly plastic into 4 sections so that I can work with it. I found that almost all of the valves and plumbing in my 3795 are together in a single 3ft section of the camper so I put a steel stud under there on both sides of the plumbing so that I could section that part out and insulate it separately. I am going to be installing rigid foam insulation under the bottom and leaving most of it there permanantly and securing it with extra screws.

I haven't taken any pictures but if I get the camera out I will try to take some later this week. It will be dark because of the time change but I need to have it completed before next weekend.

11-03-2008, 09:20 AM
The Cyclones do have an enclosed and heated underbelly but have no insulation. We have done the same as Chris (LuckyHat 12) and installed rigid insulation the whole length of the trailer. Hopefully that will help us as we use ours all year round as well. It's just the City supply we have to worry about now and a trip to Home Depot should fix that.

cabin fever
12-15-2008, 11:19 PM
I had it out in freezing temps again and noticed it froze not only the inlet but on the outlet side too. It did warm up enough to thaw and get it drained. the next time put the 50 gal barrel in garage and ran a hose to the bypass. To avoid freezing on the outlet side I blew the water out of the lines before bed. That worked fine, but I forgot to switch the heater bypass back and it took me awhile to figure why I had no hot water. I hate those brain cramps. The hose is a little pain, but we are able to flowing water.

01-03-2010, 06:41 PM
Where or how is the underbelly heated? I'm in NC now and have not had any water all day. It got up to 33 degrees for about 30 minutes. I varified the pump is working and the lines near the pump are okay. It appears the line from the tank is frozen. I tried running hot water down the line but that did not work. Is there some other way to get heat to the fresh water tank?

01-03-2010, 06:49 PM
I did some digging around a few days ago and found the our fresh water tank is over the axles and the pump is behind the UDC, so that is about 10 feet if it is a straight shot. I did find that a few of the heater vent, if removed from the floor allow alot of access to the lines and the tank. you might try removing the vent and placing a electric heat there and blow more hot air since the tank is so far away from the heat area of the basement.

01-03-2010, 07:25 PM
It is my understanding that the underbelly gets it's heat when the furnace is running. Just turn your heater up and see if that'll thaw it.

01-04-2010, 10:50 AM
I just came back in after checking the underbelly. I found the water supply line coming from the tank and it is frozen solid. As for the supposed heat from the furnace to heat the underbelly and keep the water supply line hose from freezing, well that will never happen the way mine is installed. The supply line lies on top of the plastic sheeting attached to the underbelly frame. It is basically fully exposed to the open air. The supply line is nowhere near the heat ducting and there is no insulation.

Now I have to start thinking of some ideas how to improve this situation.

The other thing I noticed is the cheep plywood sheeting the water tank is lying on is bowing down very much. It doesn’t look like it would take very much for the full water tank to bust through.

01-04-2010, 10:58 AM
If its the same as the BC the air around the UDC is at room temperature. A fan might just be required to push some hotter air toward the tank.

My tanks are all Imperial Capacity and I have to check them all for proper support, Imperial Gallons are 20% heavier then US Gallons. I had to reinforce supports of the Graywater tank under the Backwater tank because the combined weight of the 2 tanks were bending one of the angles.

01-04-2010, 11:29 AM
If its the same as the BC the air around the UDC is at room temperature. A fan might just be required to push some hotter air toward the tank.

My tanks are all Imperial Capacity and I have to check them all for proper support, Imperial Gallons are 20% heavier then US Gallons. I had to reinforce supports of the Graywater tank under the Backwater tank because the combined weight of the 2 tanks were bending one of the angles.

Considering there is a lot of open space in the underbelly and plenty of holes I don't think a simple fan will do much of anything but blow cold air around. There has to be a lot of forced hot air under there to thaw the frozen pipe. I just hope it hasn't been cracked or split somewhere.

Also, it appears the Cyclone has two water tanks connected by a pipe.

01-04-2010, 03:30 PM
It warmed up enough today to thaw the line. Everything is working fine now and I haven't seen any leaks. When I get to Florida, I will look into some kind of modification. Now I'm waiting on the the awning replacement to arrive and instillation.

01-04-2010, 08:28 PM
Another poster a couple days ago has pictures of the plywood breaking under the tanks. Sounds like something ever-one with those particular units should check out.

01-04-2010, 08:56 PM
If you leave the water run a little bit during the freeze, be sure to leave your tank valve open. RV's don't have an 'overflow' in the sinks like our house sinks do.

01-15-2010, 01:04 PM
A small trouble light or a small space heater mounted in the area, under there, could provide enough heat to prevent a freezup...

01-15-2010, 04:15 PM
if you guys go out and open your tank drain pull door and look towards where your pipes are supposed to be you might be like me and see exposed pipes directly exposed to the outside elements. There is no insulation around them and the only thing that will keep them warmer is the sheet metal bottom side of the camper that has all kinds of holes in it. If you go further back there is only a plastic piece shielding them from the elements. I am going to build an enclosure for those pipes out of foam board and hold it in place with spray foam to try and insulate a little more. I was fustrated because I made all kinds of preparations to keep my camper warmer and still had frozen pipes 4 days this winter. It froze in a different spot each day and that is how I eventually found these exposed pipes. And another thing.. I don't have any heat ducts pointed into the central water hookup area. the under belly may be heated but where the water pipes are is not.

Also, put something in the hole where your water hose comes through to hook up because all of those fittings are only insulated with a piece of fiberglass coated paneling. No other insulation so you could have plenty of heat in your hose and still have your water freeze inside your basement there if the wind is blowing.

lake texoma
02-02-2010, 05:07 PM
What about running heat tape down your suply line to the tank? That would provide enough heat to keep it from freezing? Just a thought.

02-04-2010, 08:06 PM
I would tell everyone to check your Tank supports and wood. We have a 2007 3795. Our tank fell down into the frame the first time I filled it when it was New. (Thank God we were not on the road) I spent 6 hours that night putting new Steel under the tank to hold it up. So I could meet our friends for a trip the next day. The pictures are under Loco posts (Water tank fixes) on here. I would tell everyone to check their tanks My tank will never fail again. It is held up with 3 inch X 1 X 1/4 channel steel Now.

02-06-2010, 08:04 PM
Thanks for all the info. I will consider the recommendations and decide the best solution.

BTW: The frozen water in the tanks finally thawed out after two weeks in Florida. I emptied the tank before I left NC. Then this past week I noticed there was water in there again. It was still about half full.