30amp/ 50 amp hook up
- Thread starter mneisler1
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
50-->30 amp adapter is all you need to use a 50 amp receptacle. Even though most campground pedestals will also have a 30 amp receptacle, it'll be handy to have when you run into a pedestal that only has a 50.
You should consider an Electrical Management System (EMS) Surge Protector like the Progressive PT30C
These devices are a little pricey, but they protect your trailer from a number of different electrical problems that commonly occur, including overvoltage, undervoltage, surges, and open neutral.
You should consider an Electrical Management System (EMS) Surge Protector like the Progressive PT30C
These devices are a little pricey, but they protect your trailer from a number of different electrical problems that commonly occur, including overvoltage, undervoltage, surges, and open neutral.
danemayer
Well-known member
If you're pulling too many amps for your 30 amp setup, and are plugged into a 30 amp receptacle, depending on which breaker is more sensitive, you might trip either the trailer main breaker, or the pedestal. If plugged into a 50 amp receptacle, the trailer main 30 amp breaker would trip first.
With respect to frying things inside the trailer when plugged into 50 amp service, the usual (but uncommon) exposure is to overvoltage if there's a neutral failure. But since the 50-->30 adapter only uses one leg of the 50 amp receptacle, that's not an issue with a 30 amp trailer.
danemayer
Well-known member
What are the circumstances under which the 10 gauge wire would be carrying more than 30 amps?
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
If the wire were to short prior to the breaker panel, or a defective 30 amp main breaker is the only time the 10ga input wire can carry more than the 30 amp main house breaker will trip at.
danemayer
Well-known member
I can understand a hypothetical scenario where the trailer's 30 amp breaker could fail. But if that's a worry point, won't you be worrying about every breaker in your trailer and your home. My living room has a bunch of outlets on a 20 amp circuit. If I overload that circuit, I depend on the 20 amp breaker to trip before the wiring overheats. The incoming electric service is 200 amps. I don't reduce the house service to 20 amps because a circuit breaker might fail.
Scott_Joanna
Member
Gaffer
Well-known member
Water heater, converter, microwave, AC, coffee pot. Will be way over 30 amps when a few of these are on at the same time. You want this coach protected by a 30 amp circuit breaker. Unless there is a 30 amp main in the coach you are in danger of burning the thing down by protecting it with 50 amps at the pedestal
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
He has a 30 amp camper. Thus his main breaker should be 30 amps.
In our S&B, all the breakers are out side of the house. I trip all of them off and on once a year on advice from the News Paper. The story was about how breakers on the outside of the house can fail open. They will not trip do to higher humidity conditions over time ruining them and with an over current cause a fire. The report was about a house fire caused by a breaker not tripping. I have had to replace three breakers over the years that failed to turn back on. All circuits that were connected to the breakers that did not close again would not have tripped with an over current condition. If your breakers are in the house or the garage, you do not have the problem.
Gaffer
Well-known member
I didn't know if there was a main breaker in his coach or not.
Apropdoc
Utah Chapter Leaders-retired
The only difference between 30 and 50 amp plugs is the additional line carrying 110-120 voltage. On a 30 amp plug there is 1each neutral terminal, 1each ground terminal, and 1each hot wire terminal. On a 50 amp plug there is 1each neutral terminal, 1each ground terminal, and 2each hot wire terminals. The 50 to 30 connector only utilizes 1 of the hot terminals, the other is not used. Unless the adapter is messed up or a cheapo buy from some unnamed foreign land or the pedestal is wired incorrectly, the trailer will still only get the rated voltage from the one hot terminal.
danemayer
Well-known member
And that's why the trailer has a 30 amp main breaker that powers the buss bar from which all the individual circuit breakers are powered.
Mattman
Well-known member
It's NEC code. Your 30 amp cord is only rated for 30amps. If you run more than 30 amp threw it, the heat will destroy it. In the same stroke maybe cause injury to person or equipment. Even if your camper has a 30amp main in it, the wiring from the outside outlet to it is not protected on that 30amps. If it ignites from over amperage. Potential fire. Plugging 30 amp equipment into a high amparage is a big NO. You will not get the protection you need in the event of a fault, or overload. Your lamp cord that only draws 2 amps is rated to take 20 amps for a worse case scenario to clear it. This is a UL listing meaning it will hold long enough for the breaker to trip. Not on a 25 or 30 amp breaker. It will draw to much and destruction. If you burn your camper down because you plugged into a 50. Guess what your inauranse company will say??
LBR
Well-known member
I would encourage everyone to install a Progressive Industries HW protector with remote readout. This HW-50 that I recently installed tells me where and what every amps is getting used for after becoming one with understanding it and the equipment in the 5ver.
One can see how much the converter/charger is initially pulling after a day on the road and how it tapers off over the next few hours, how much draw on L1 and L2 is being pulled, seeing what Line every single component is on and exactly how many amps it pulls, found out my 5.5K factory installed genset frequency is 63 Hz instead of 60, voltage drop as equipment is being used, when the hot water heater comes on and appreciating the 11 amps it pulls, and so on.
The protection by the unit is obviously the most important key item of the package, but the readout is my primary focus and pat my own back to substantiate the investment. I can't imagine not being able to monitor usage by either not owning one or even having a portable pedestal mount protector. I have recooped my investment by piece of mind in this last 5 weeks since installing it.....and NO I don't own stock in PI to post this.....the unit (with 2 remotes in my case) is that good and topdog in my book.
One can see how much the converter/charger is initially pulling after a day on the road and how it tapers off over the next few hours, how much draw on L1 and L2 is being pulled, seeing what Line every single component is on and exactly how many amps it pulls, found out my 5.5K factory installed genset frequency is 63 Hz instead of 60, voltage drop as equipment is being used, when the hot water heater comes on and appreciating the 11 amps it pulls, and so on.
The protection by the unit is obviously the most important key item of the package, but the readout is my primary focus and pat my own back to substantiate the investment. I can't imagine not being able to monitor usage by either not owning one or even having a portable pedestal mount protector. I have recooped my investment by piece of mind in this last 5 weeks since installing it.....and NO I don't own stock in PI to post this.....the unit (with 2 remotes in my case) is that good and topdog in my book.
danemayer
Well-known member
Mattman,
If you look at the commonly available 50 to 30 amp adapters that are sold so that a 30 amp trailer can plug into a 50 amp receptacle, you'll find that every one is UL listed as safe to use.
Are you saying these adapters should all be outlawed? Or have you misunderstood something?
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
Progressive HW-50 saved us at least 50 times this past week. We were at Crasy Horse Campground in Lake Havasu City, AZ and it turned the power off each time the voltage got below 105V. Very poor power in the park. We were told that that are starting to rewire some sections. Had low voltage before and am thinking of investing in an autoformer. Glad that we have the Progressive unit. Not much fun having the power cut out constantly. Only was using minimum power 5 to 8 amps and still dropped below 105V.
Gaffer
Well-known member
I doubt that you will find one with a UL label. Have you seen one?
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