Curt Q 25 fifth wheel Ford puck system

NHCelt

NHCelt

Well-known member
Hi all. Is anyone using this hitch?

I just bought a new F350 Powerstroke and have a BW companion that isn't going to work with the puck system without a new base...which costs about the same as this hitch at etrailer...which comes with a ten-year warranty and has a 7000 lb. higher rating than my BW.

I can't find anything bad and the design looks good....last minute jitters I guess. Would love to hear any experiences.
 
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travlingman

Well-known member
That is what I put in my new 2017 F-350. Really like it. Had a B&W in my last truck too like you. Liked that the head moves 360 degrees verses just front/back and side to side. Seems to absorb some road shock better with the rubber mounting and I definitely like the way it attaches to the base better than the B&W. The indicator to let you know if hitched correctly is nice. It takes a little getting use to hitching it up, but just let kingpin drop on hitch about 1/4" when you back up and it will latch. Again, the indicator will let you know if hitched and leaves no doubt.
 
LBR

LBR

Well-known member
Running the Q24 in our 2003 Ford and like it alot...no complaints. Not sure what the difference is between a Q24 and Q25 as the later is still rated at 24K....maybe just a newer model update?
 
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deonb

Member
How long does it take to install a Q25 on a Ford F350 DRW factory puck system?

I just ordered one, and I plan on taking it to an installer 60 miles away (closest I could find) to install it.


Is this just something I should do myself?

I'm generally pretty handy, but I've never pulled a 5th wheeler before so I'm just scared if I install it myself I wouldn't even know if it was behaving correctly or not.
 
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fastcarsspeed

Well-known member
The hardest thing is getting the Hitch into the bed of the truck just due to weight more than anything. Hooking it up is all of 5 minutes. Pull the puck arms and then drop it into the system. Lock the puck arms and she is good to go. System looks nice. We have the Reese Elite 18k.
 
NHCelt

NHCelt

Well-known member
Great....I feel better.

Deonb...there is nothing to do except put the hitch in the bed and fasten it into the puck system...the installation package is already done under the bed.

Other 2017 Superduty owners....what are you seeing for towing transmission temps. My temp runs 198 on highway with no tow...is this normal? My DURAMAX never ran that hot towing.
 
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deonb

Member
NHCelt said:
Deonb...there is nothing to do except put the hitch in the bed and fasten it into the puck system...the installation package is already done under the bed.
Click to expand...

The installation does talk about needing to tighten some bolts to 100 ft-lbs.
"With the hitch in position, finish securing the legs to the head by tightening the bolts from step 3 to 100 ft-lbs."

But not sure exactly which bolts they're talking about?

https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/16017/installsheet/CM_16017_INS.pdf


The referred step 3 doesn't deal with bolts.
"Step 3: Assemble the legs loosely to 5th wheel head using the 14mm hardware provided with the hitch and lower the assembly onto the factory mount position in the truck bed."
 
NHCelt

NHCelt

Well-known member
It will be the bolts at the pucks... The handles that turn. Etrailer has a nice video.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk

Edit.... maybe that was the bw hitch....Sounds like you keep the hitch legs loose enough to get a good fit and then torque them up. I'll let you know for sure as soon as mine arrives...
 
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fastcarsspeed

Well-known member
NHCelt said:
Great....I feel better.

Deonb...there is nothing to do except put the hitch in the bed and fasten it into the puck system...the installation package is already done under the bed.

Other 2017 Superduty owners....what are you seeing for towing transmission temps. My temp runs 198 on highway with no tow...is this normal? My DURAMAX never ran that hot towing.
Click to expand...

I know I don't have a 17 but the transmissions havent changed that much. Ever since the Scorpion Motor and Trans was out it was a discussion the forums that the transmissions temps were higher now. I believe mine is the 190's not towing. I will ahve to take a look when we travel back home at the end of the weekend.
 
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travlingman

Well-known member
The bolts that are tightened to 100 ft. lbs. are the 4 bolts, 2 on each side that bolt the base together. To secure the hitch in the puck system, you will turn the 4 arms, 2 on each side into the puck system. You can adjust the castle nut if not enough pressure, easy to do. No need to pay anyone to do this.

When towing in the mountains I have saw tranny temps at 228 degrees. Some are reporting up to 235 which causes the fan to kick on. You will also see coolant temps above 220 degrees and oil temps will be in the 240+ range.
 
Bookoo

Bookoo

Member
We have a 2017 F350 srw crew cab short box. We have a Curt A20 hitch for our 2017 Bighorn 3585rl. We are on our first month long road trip. We just towed our unit over Lost Trail Pass that designates the borders of Idaho and Montana. Elevation is 7200 feet and the truck towed it like a dream. Trans temp was 198 on top. Traveling down the pass with the engine compression brake on auto was an incredible experience. The grade varied from 5 to 9% with turns over 180 degrees. I barely touch the brake or excelerator the 6 miles down. Wife and I just smiled. Love our hitch and how it doesn't have any slop when braking and taking off. Give credit too to the Moryde kingpin too.
 
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travlingman

Well-known member
NHCelt said:
And all these high temps are ok?

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

They are normal as my fan didn't kick on. The temps have been discussed on most Ford forums as most are seeing them. My 2012 ran oil temps in the 244 range, didn't have a coolant temp gauge but trannys ran cooler in the low 200's. Don't know what changed in the 2017's for the tranny temps to go up.
 
NHCelt

NHCelt

Well-known member
Amazing temps, but I guess they know what they are doing. I hope.

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
 
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deonb

Member
travlingman said:
The bolts that are tightened to 100 ft. lbs. are the 4 bolts, 2 on each side that bolt the base together. To secure the hitch in the puck system, you will turn the 4 arms, 2 on each side into the puck system. You can adjust the castle nut if not enough pressure, easy to do. No need to pay anyone to do this.
Click to expand...

I found that the castle nuts don't really have enough positions.

If I put it in one position it will be so loose that I can close the handle with my pinkie.
But if I put it in the next position over I have to use a mallet to tighten the handle and REALLY go at it - to the point where the mallet goes to shreds and the handle starts bending.

I've opted to the looser one of the two for now, but I don't really feel great about it. But I'm afraid the second way would strip the bolt.


I don't hear any noises coming from it, even on the loose setting. And the force of the nut isn't what's keeping the bolts from coming out of the pucks, but I don't know the forces that my RoadWarrior puts on those bolts, when it's doing its Captain Kangaroo thing all over those Oklahoma roads that haven't been maintained since Truman was in office.
 
T

travlingman

Well-known member
deonb said:
I found that the castle nuts don't really have enough positions.

If I put it in one position it will be so loose that I can close the handle with my pinkie.
But if I put it in the next position over I have to use a mallet to tighten the handle and REALLY go at it - to the point where the mallet goes to shreds and the handle starts bending.

I've opted to the looser one of the two for now, but I don't really feel great about it. But I'm afraid the second way would strip the bolt.


I don't hear any noises coming from it, even on the loose setting. And the force of the nut isn't what's keeping the bolts from coming out of the pucks, but I don't know the forces that my RoadWarrior puts on those bolts, when it's doing its Captain Kangaroo thing all over those Oklahoma roads that haven't been maintained since Truman was in office.
Click to expand...

Mine was the same way on tightening hitch down. I called Curt and they said that was normal and not to force the handles. If you force the handles you can damage the mechanism and will have to replace. Curt said that one adjustment spot on the castle nut was a few .001". I had no issues towing with mine, had 2 what I considered loose, and after a few trips was able to get one of them to tighten to next spot on castle nut. I have all of mine hand tightened, no force used.
 
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