Repair Black Water Shut Off Valve

[Georgia_Biker]

We have a 2013 BH3610RE. Does anyone know how hard it is to get to and replace the Black Water shut off valve?

For some reason it leaks after it is shut and when we pull in to a camp sight and you pop off the cap to hook up the sewer line you get a gallon or more Black Water that has collected in the drain line runs out. Phew!

I have paid Camping World of Oakwood, GA twice to repair it - over $400 in labor but no parts and it still leaks!

So I want to do it myself. Can anyone advise?

Thanks

 

[danemayer]

Hi Georgia_Biker,

You may just have some TP or crud stuck in the gate valve, allowing a slow leak. To get to the gate valve, you need to cut the coroplast underbelly. Our LM has a similar floorplan to the 3610RE and the black tank is above the gray #1. The outlet on ours is close to the place where the frame height changes, about 18" from the ODS frame.

If you're going to take the valve apart, and maybe replace, start by cleaning the tank. Pour a gallon of hot water with a cup of water softener, a cup of dawn detergent, and a cup of bleach into the black tank. Add 5- 10 gallons of water. Drive around for 30-60 minutes. Drain. Flush, flush, flush. Drain.

Before you start working on the valve, raise the off-door-side of the trailer a little so any remaining fluid goes to the doorside, away from the valve.

Another approach is to buy a twist-on external gate valve. With an external gate valve, you can keep it closed while traveling. When setting up, attach the sewer hose and then open the external gate valve.

Here's a link to the twist-on external gate valve.

When you dump the black tank, you'll want a clear adapter on the outlet so you can see what's coming out. An external gate valve also allows you to stop the outflow from the black tank flush after it appears clear, and use the black tank flush to refill the tank (time it: about 6 minutes). Then dump a 2nd time. I routinely dump 3 times to make sure when I close the black tank gate valve there's nothing getting trapped in the valve.

 

[jnbhobe]

First get one of these, http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...qid=1421361820&sr=8-3&keywords=valterra+valve Then maybe you can work at fixing the other one, maybe a good back flushing

 

[Bob&Patty]

X2 on the valtera valve and clear adapter. It takes me at least 4times to get clear water. A piece of TP is probably the problem

 

[JohnDar]

Adding the large twist-on valve is certainly a viable option, but I took a slightly different route. I replaced the original sewer cap with one with a hose bib on it and attached an inline valve to it. I place a small container at it and release any residual liquid before removing the large cap. I haven't had a problem with the tank valve, but any liquid remaining in the pipes after dumping and moving still collects at the end of the pipes. At most, I get a cup or so of liquid. Otherwise, removing the cap without draining it resulted in a spray since there is a little built-up pressure in there when the system is closed up. Once on site, I hook up the sewer hose with the extra valve and backflush adapter. This system works for us since we spend the summer on a seasonal site and only move off site for the Goshen rallies.

 

[JanAndBill]

Always amazes me at the lengths some will go to make do, when the solution is so easy. I know laying on your back UNDER a potentially nasty shower is not something I looked forward to, but the fix wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

1. Call Heartland and have them email you a drawing of your valve locations. Then using that drawing cut an access door/hole in your corplast. I made mine big enough to actually get to everything comfortably. I then went to the hardware store and got a piece of 10 ga aluminum plate (you could probably use something thinner) about 2" bigger than the hole. It is attached with screws to the frame and automotive u-nuts where needed to hold the corplast.

2. If your cable travels in a nice big loop from the handle to the valve then you're lucky. If not disconnect the cable from your black valve and at the handle. Remove the whole cable, inner and outer. Pull your handle out enough that you can spray silicon in the cable and work the cable back and forth till the whole length is lubricated. Re install the cable MAKING SURE that it is in a nice big arch with no kinks or sharp bends, but don't reattach to the black valve yet.

3. Now is the time to determine if the valve is actually leaking. There are 4 bolts that hold the valve together. These bolts should be snug but not TIGHT. If they are overly tight loosen them slightly. There is a rod coming out of the valve that the cable attaches to that actuates the slide. Spray this rod with silicon and work the valve back and forth. When the valve operates easily, then close it fully by hand, and fully drain whatever has accumulated in your line. Run water into your black tank. Put a bucket under your drain. Go drink coffee, or adult beverage for a couple of hours I put tank chemical in my black tank so I could tell for sure if the water leak was from the black tank.

4. If you have accumulated water in your bucket, you'll have to buy new gate seals for the valve, because I can assure you that if anything is stuck in the valve, the seals will continue to leak regardless of if you remove the plug. After allowing your tank to drain FULLY. Remove the 4 bolts mentioned earlier to separate the valve far enough to remove the old seals and check for obstructions, then re-install the seals per instructions. Replace the 4 bolts and snug them up. Remember they don't need to be really tight.

5. Now reattach your cable. Go to the handle. With the valve fully closed you should have approximately 1/2' of cable sticking out. If not disconnect the cable at the black tank valve, pull out the cable far enough that you can remove just a little bit of the outer cable. I used a 4" right angle grinder. Remember just a little bit at a time. When you have the 1/2" exposed, your done. seal it up. You should now be able to operate the cable valve with one finger.When you close the valve the 1/2' is the slack you need to be sure the valve closes fully.

6. Attach and seal up your access door.

7. Mark it on your calendar to pull the door, and lubricate the metal rods on the valves with silicon once a year.

No add on accessories required, no leaks, no aggravation, makes me a happy camper.

 

[donr827]

Nice idea Bill.
Don

 

[jbeletti]

When an independent servicer replaced my black tank valve, he also shortened the cable pull about 4". He hates cable pulls and wanted to convert it to a rod-pull through the frame (which we did not do).

To shorten the cable, he disconnected it at the valve end, then used an air-powered cutting wheel and carefully scored the outer sheath until it could be snapped off.

 

[TxPatriot]

Adding the large twist-on valve is certainly a viable option, but I took a slightly different route. I replaced the original sewer cap with one with a hose bib on it and attached an inline valve to it. I place a small container at it and release any residual liquid before removing the large cap. I haven't had a problem with the tank valve, but any liquid remaining in the pipes after dumping and moving still collects at the end of the pipes. At most, I get a cup or so of liquid. Otherwise, removing the cap without draining it resulted in a spray since there is a little built-up pressure in there when the system is closed up. Once on site, I hook up the sewer hose with the extra valve and backflush adapter. This system works for us since we spend the summer on a seasonal site and only move off site for the Goshen rallies.

Great idea, plan on using this. Thanks for sharing!

 

[Georgia_Biker]

Thanks Jan-

That sounds likes something I can accomplish. The more I can do myself without having to deal with Camping World is fine by me.

 

[MdMike]

We have a 2013 BH3610RE. Does anyone know how hard it is to get to and replace the Black Water shut off valve?

For some reason it leaks after it is shut and when we pull in to a camp sight and you pop off the cap to hook up the sewer line you get a gallon or more Black Water that has collected in the drain line runs out. Phew!

I have paid Camping World of Oakwood, GA twice to repair it - over $400 in labor but no parts and it still leaks!

So I want to do it myself. Can anyone advise?

Thanks

I have an Elkrihe Fifth wheel (29BHCK) and have had the black valve repaired, a grey tank cable replaced, and recently the black valve replaced. All of this was covered (minus a deductible) under my extended warranty.

I had the same problem you did, usually a gallon or two of nasty black water when prepping to hook up, then the valve was stuck open, not allowing full use of the black tank.

Since this recent replacement and repair I have bought the Valterra twist on valve. This will at least stop the unpleasant suprise at hook up.

I firmly believe that this cable driven system is more of a problem then a convienence. If I have issues again there will be a different type of repair done and the cables are going bye bye!

 

[jimtoo]

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Since this recent replacement and repair I have bought the Valterra twist on valve. This will at least stop the unpleasant suprise at hook up.
xxxxxxxxxxx!

I would like to suggest to you that you secure the valve someway on the drain,,, or make sure the upper part of the twist on valve/handle... be positioned in the 1--2 o'clock position when looking at it.
If the valve handle is any place before the 11-12 o'clock position it may vibrate or shake hard enough to come off while driving down our good roads. How do I know ... Experience ...

Jim M

 

[Westwind]

I used a good amount of Gorilla Tape to secure mine, it make it to Florida - 1460 miles and I'll check it before our return trip.

 

[hriker]

I installed a twist-on valve and the problem is solve. They all seem to leak some and this is an easy way to prevent waste water from leaking onto the ground. I believe it was $12 at camping world. Attach and your done.

Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

 

[MdMike]

So since my last post we have been on our first trip of the year with the NEW black tank valve. Now it is dripping into the underbelly where the valve body is sandwiched with the seals. I took them apart to see if the seals are in correctly and they are. Then reassembled, tightened them a little at a time while a tank of water was on board and still have a drip. Valve functions fine. My quick fix on the road... A shot of flex seal along the bottom side of the valve where it was dripping. Appears problem is solved. Valve still works fine so I will re evaluate this further in a few weeks. One thing for sure I will never go to Leo's Vacation World for service again. They are also the dealer for Heartland and have a terrible amount of return work after making repairs. Apparently they could not fix a bicycle chain!

 

[MdMike]

So since my last post we have been on our first trip of the year with the NEW black tank valve. Now it is dripping into the underbelly where the valve body is sandwiched with the seals. I took them apart to see if the seals are in correctly and they are. Then reassembled, tightened them a little at a time while a tank of water was on board and still have a drip. Valve functions fine. My quick fix on the road... A shot of flex seal along the bottom side of the valve where it was dripping. Appears problem is solved. Valve still works fine so I will re evaluate this further in a few weeks. One thing for sure I will never go to Leo's Vacation World for service again. They are also the dealer for Heartland and have a terrible amount of return work after making repairs. Apparently they could not fix a bicycle chain!

Well this was short lived... It continueed to drip. I took it to another repair shop rather then the Heartland dealer here in my area. Those clowns could not fix a bicycle! Not to mention on comeback work they told me in May I had to wait until late July before they could take it! The other shop replaced the entire valve. They not only put the seal in backward at the Heartland Dealer (LEO'S VACATION CENTER), but they also damaged the valve body by over tourquing the bolts! The other shop also cleaned up the shoddy foam spray they used to seal the hole around the Black Tank and the abotion of a tape up they did after cutting (NOT DROPPING the corplast underbelly of the camper. My valve now functions properly, the trailer underside looks almost like new and I will NEVER GO TO LEO'S VACATION CENTER AGAIN for a purchase or service! Oh, and my extended warranty company is going to reimburse me for the $509 repair bill, or so they say. Still waiting on a check.

 

[blueoval]

We have a 2013 BH3610RE. Does anyone know how hard it is to get to and replace the Black Water shut off valve?

For some reason it leaks after it is shut and when we pull in to a camp sight and you pop off the cap to hook up the sewer line you get a gallon or more Black Water that has collected in the drain line runs out. Phew!

I have paid Camping World of Oakwood, GA twice to repair it - over $400 in labor but no parts and it still leaks!

So I want to do it myself. Can anyone advise?

Thanks

The problem is in the cable not the valve.

I would bet they are not installer correctly per the install manual from Valterra. I bet if you pull your under belly down the cable/s would be all over the place and to long and not secured at any point.

I would bet Camping World just put silicon spray on the valve and did not re-run the cables because the cables cannot be re-installed correctly because of the designs from Heartland.

The cables CANNOT bend no more the 180 digress and no tighter then 24" and must be secured 24" from the handle and the valve plus the cable must be 6" straight out the backside of the handle and the 6" straight going into the valve. Go look on the backside of the UDC and I bet the cables take a direct dive into the belly and not the 6" straight run per Valterra.

Read my post under Gray Tank Valves are very Stiff on here get better details of my problems and what I have found out.

I have been reading and calling factories about this same problem and really have learned a lot about these cable actuated waste valves.

I am going to electric units.

 

[teasac69]

I have one of the twist on gate valves that I use when doing my empty/cleaning so I can see what's going on. However, I'm not sure how that is a solution to a leaking valve since it hangs down so far that you'll surely knock it off while traveling??? I get the same result when I stop at the next site, about 1 gallon of bad water that I've owned campers long enough to know should NOT be there. I've started to use a small bucket when I break that cover to capture the residual or leakage and then attach my lines. However, I also suffer the same discomfort with the handles and cables, very hard to pull or push and scared they are going to break or lock up. I ran enough water through after multiple washings to clear out any possible "debris" from the gate valve so I'm pretty convinced at this point that it is just not fully closing. My 2014 BH 3875 FB warranty has just expired but this coach does not have many miles or nights on it. certainly shouldn't be giving me these problems. Maybe the 10 months from mfg date to my purchase, sitting completely idle cause some corrosion or drying of the cables, but I'm just wondering how much money you have to spend on a coach to get one that doesn't have gate valve or indicator light problems???

I'm planning to pull the sheeting down and try to inspect my valve and possible replace the seal, etc., anything to make this crap (no pun intended) go away.

 

[jbeletti]

...I'm planning to pull the sheeting down and try to inspect my valve and possible replace the seal, etc., anything to make this crap (no pun intended) go away.

Often times, debris can become impacted in the groove that the paddle slides into. Just taking the valve apart and cleaning may be the fix. You'll want to remove the o-rings in the valve, clean them and regrease them too.

If at all possible, consider converting your valves from cable-actuated to pull-rods through the frame. Tough job but nice to have if it can be done.

 

[JohnDar]

Just because the flow has stopped when you're dumping the tanks, doesn't mean you won't get liquid accumulating behind the cap. Don't forget, there's several feet of still wet piping on the other side of the cap and that liquid will want to eventually make it's way to the low spot, i.e. the outlet. Rather than leave the twist-on valve hanging there, I replaced the cap with one that has a garden hose outlet and added a simple hose valve to that. When I'm ready to remove the cap, I first put a coffee can under the outlet and open the valve. No muss, no fuss, and no stinky water on us.