And so it begins

Mine leaked on the driver's side and it was associated w/ heavy rain. I store mine inside, so it was when we took it out and rained hard all night that I found it wet. I took it to the dealer and they removed and re-attached the slam door frame on both sides. It fixed the problem. Ron

I don't have slam doors but I have been thinking it is probably the frame.
Right side has no gas struts to push against lowering, so the frame seems to still be sealed well enough - and no water issue.

Left side is always working against the struts when closing and over time I have seen the frame loosen up from the body. It actually deflects down a bit when closing. So it may very well be coming through between frame and body.

But I have no more carpet in there to get all stinky.

H'mmm, maybe a Goshen touch up.

Additions.............

Added a PVC tube to store the poles for my Tiki Torches
http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-H-x-4-in-D-King-Tiki-Torch-1111200/203069448#.UYMRTkogYgk

Something I've wanted to do since adding a receiver style mount for my flag pole (//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=93543&viewfull=1#post93543) - a hard wired light. I have been using several varieties of solar LED lamps, but they are not bright enough nor do they last long enough.

The light is a marine grade 6 LED unit. I used a piece of 1" by 1/4" aluminun bar and angled it across the ladder supports up on the roof.

The wire feeds through a hole in the top rear corner. This goes right into the void between the ramp door frame and the frame for the HappyJac bunks.

From here straight down through a hole I previously drilled and and then forward along the frame to the front portion of the garage.

I added a switch in the frame for the holding tank door. Also added a red LED as a reminder that the light is on during the day.

I like it - nice and bright. Now just need some variable breeze to see if the lamp spreads the light around enough.

Looks great Duane!!!! Something I need to do.

Awesome! I installed mine on the pin box w/ an LED spotlight aiming down from the top front of the front cap. Nothing like Old Glory properly displayed at night with lighting. Ron

If I didn't already have the 16' flag pole your idea would have most likely been the next choice.

Now that is impressive! Nice work

Re: Chair rail wallpaper border trim

love the easy make it yours touches! thank you for taking the time to post these for us all...

spiritsage said:

love the easy make it yours touches! thank you for taking the time to post these for us all...

Click to expand...

Soon as I have time to edit the pics I have a half dozen or so other things to add to the list.................

MOR/ryde

Every time we are in the area I make an appointment and have my IS checked.



The inspection this time determined that my springs were below specs again. But this time the trailer was weighed and a lengthy conversation ensued.
Fingers were pointed and in the end it was determined that we would be best off replacing my 7K suspension with an 8K kit. Not a drop in the bucket with regards to either cost or time involved.


Lot of "crunching" was done. Trying to justify the expense with several variables.



After some negotiating we went with a complete IS replacement.
Off with the old and on with the new. 2.5 days partly due to a wicked Indiana storm that knocked out power in the area for 14 hours.







Brakes after 19+ thousand miles and I run my controller at 10



Bearings, 4.5 years and 19+K miles, orignal grease packing from MOR/ryde

On with the new. My guess is there is about 50% more steel with the 8K over the 7K





Brake pads used



This is one of the employee's car. "Fart can" muffler and a "working stack". He was proud of it too.



In the end we spent $$$ on an unplanned repair, but feel it is worth it.
And a lesson learned. Doing work like this I was inclined in the beginning to have the 8K installed and was talked out of it.

An FYI You can go with:

7K IS - 7K springs
7K IS - 8K springs
8K IS - 7K springs
8K IS - 8K springs

So if you think you might be heavy, the heaver suspension components with the lighter springs. Springs are easy to change.

Trailer cameras I bought at Goshen. I won't bother with the side view cameras. In my opinion they are not worth the expense or time involved to install.
The rear camera shown here is a 2 camera unit, a wide angle and closeup.
I have the close up aimed to just see my rear bumper on the trailer.
The wide angle is aimed to see the ground about 20-30 feet behind the trailer. There is a dead spot between about 10-30 feet directly behind the trailer.






The hardest part of course is running the cables.
Difficult part #1
I went through the pin box, straight back into the genny compartment. About an hour+

Out towards the door side, back under the bedroom floor into the area behind the basement wall. From there across to the off door side, down through the floor into the underbelly. Along the frame to the rear of the trailer.

Difficult part #2
From the inner frame rail to the most rearward left side corner and up through the floor into the garage, another hour+
I used an old "S-video" cable with the pins removed. Jammed the camera video cables into the now empty end and taped it up. This was for snaking through the compartments and wall.

"If" I was to do this again, I would order an extra video cable, cut it in half and use that for snaking, since the uncut end can be securely attached to your video runs

If you have the pull down screen, just remove, not worth trying to work around.
Don't bother pulling the trim off the forward facing boxed in area. Behind mine was a solid piece of 3/4" cherry.

Pull the trim off the bottom to expose the wire cavity.








Difficult part #3
This hole in the aluminum channel was just big enough for the existing wires, plus my previously installed back up light circuit.
I had to carefully make the hole larger with the wires still in it. Enough cutting to get the new cable ends in.

Truck wiring was a bit easier. I installed the trucks 7 pin connector near the factory their connector. I have power coming from one of my upfitter's.

For temporary monitor mounting I used an aluminun decorative license plate I had. Bent to shape it around the mirror and held on with double stick. Only temporary, but it looks like it might stay for the long haul.







Video quality is about VCR. Little disappointed in that. Lot of work, glad I did it, doubt I would do it again.

As part of my drama with SAT TV I ran all new cables. New to the LR and an"initial" to the bedroom. Seems the bedroom never got wired for SAT, just an empty connector in the ceiling.

Added an outlet in the basement for the Power Inserter.



The power inserter and the splitter are mounted behind the basement wall.




The DirecTV HR "Genie system sits behind the TV on a 2" angle bracket, held in by a strap. As the remotes are radio frequency the receiver can be hidden. Nothing to see anyway on the front face.




A Genie "client" sits in the bedroom closet that holds the TV. You can just see in in the lower right corner.




SAT TV setup

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...so-far-a-bit-disappointed?highlight=satellite

Trying to eliminate black streaks coming from the gutter seams. Tried some EPDM patch tape. Missed a small spot on the inner side and it still leaks a bit.

Had an 1800 watt inverter with built in transfer switch laying around.



Wired it in and the output is used to supply:

Double duplex in the garage ODS, a single duplex on the DS


Outlet in the basement for the SAT power inserter.


Outlets behind the TV for the SAT receiver and TV and a duplex in the bedroom for the TV and Genie client.

Purpose is to supply constant, steady power fo rthe TV's and SAT equipment. This way we can use them without the genny.
In the garage our Dometic electric cooler/freezer and ice maker are plugged in and left on. Ice when we arrive

While I was doing this I changed all the power and supply cables for the hydraulic system. Used 2 gauge cable I had leftover from the golf cart upgrade. No more low voltage kick outs with the Level Up now. The 100 amp breaker is the LevelUp breaker and is temporary. It will be replaced with an 80 when they come in.

My LevelUp was not installed with any type of angle, al of the jacks were done vertical, and the fronts were installed inside the frame rails.
LevelUp's answer to that is to space out the jacks with washers.
The rears were easy, the fronts were a bit of a challenge.

About an inch of washers gives about 5 degrees.



I can tell you that angling the jacks brings about new issues - pops.
I have the popping now more then when the jacks were straight. Something to ponder.

While in the Genny compartment (from the rear, wall removed) I removed my hose reel since the Ford is equipped with air.

The trailer sit DS high in my driveway, so whenever I washed it, if I wasn't careful, water was getting inside under the fridge.

I siliconed down a piece of 1" aluminum angle, seen here between the extinguisher and the fridge burner.

The extinguisher is one of the Halon units mentioned in the other thread about Halon that Bill started.




After gluing down the angle I sprayed it this flex seal stuff. Not real impressed with it's ability to stick But so far no leaks.
(whitish wavy looking stuff)

12 volt outlets added in the UDC (for the original SAT dish), bedroom, basement and under the the J-wrap behind the steps for 12 volt Fantastic fans I got while at Dover.

The "J-wrap" socket is to hang one of the fans on the dog's pen.