And so it begins
- Thread starter porthole
- Start date
porthole
Retired
Semi-trailer related. Updates to my TS-3 air ride hitch.
I kept my AirLift wireless controller from my GMC days. It now controls the TS-3 air bags.
I have the electronics controlled with a a switch mounted on the side of the hitch.
With power off I can dump all the air with this dump button.
Relay and AirLift solenoid pack. I left the compressor in for a backup if ever needed, but it is not plumbed in.
The brass thingys are expensive, O2 clean, high pressure, one way check valves I had laying around from my SCUBA stuff.
Theses are plumbed in to allow both bags to be filled independently from the AirLift solenoids but allow both to be dumped simultaneously using one dump valve.
The AirLift typically works by actuating the compressor until the desired fill is achieved.
I am using a volume tank, so the compressor circuit instead operates a 12 volt horn solenoid to supply air.
Stainless piece of scrap I had that was used to protect the solenoid pack.
Diamond plate added to cover up the big openings.
I kept my AirLift wireless controller from my GMC days. It now controls the TS-3 air bags.
I have the electronics controlled with a a switch mounted on the side of the hitch.
With power off I can dump all the air with this dump button.
Relay and AirLift solenoid pack. I left the compressor in for a backup if ever needed, but it is not plumbed in.
The brass thingys are expensive, O2 clean, high pressure, one way check valves I had laying around from my SCUBA stuff.
Theses are plumbed in to allow both bags to be filled independently from the AirLift solenoids but allow both to be dumped simultaneously using one dump valve.
The AirLift typically works by actuating the compressor until the desired fill is achieved.
I am using a volume tank, so the compressor circuit instead operates a 12 volt horn solenoid to supply air.
Stainless piece of scrap I had that was used to protect the solenoid pack.
Diamond plate added to cover up the big openings.
OMG Duane - you have the Hotrod of hitches now 
Cool mods.
The only thing I have planned for my TS3 is to repower it. I don't care for the 7-pin dongle arrangement that came with the hitch compressor. I plan to add a smaller (4-pin) receptacle to the sidewall of the bed and a mating connector for the compressor. Then I can go back to plugging the RV 7-wire directly into the bad receptacle.
Cool mods. The only thing I have planned for my TS3 is to repower it. I don't care for the 7-pin dongle arrangement that came with the hitch compressor. I plan to add a smaller (4-pin) receptacle to the sidewall of the bed and a mating connector for the compressor. Then I can go back to plugging the RV 7-wire directly into the bad receptacle.
I have that Airlift controller in my truck and I hate it. It's totally unreliable. They sent me a brand new unit, I installed it, used it for one trip, and now it stopped communicating to the back seat just like the first one did. I tore it out and I'm putting in a manual Firestone dual controller I bought.
porthole
Retired
When was the last time you had it replaced? there have been a few changes in the system. I had one of the early kits and it worked fine right up until I tried adding it to the trailair pin box. Got a few replacement parts and eventually an all new kit, warranty exchange. So far it has worked fine.
I had good experience going through the AirLift that is on the Ford Truck Forum, where there is a thread or two about the wireless issues.
Jim, with your truck - if it was mine - I would go through the floor, eliminate visible wire completely. I still plan on doing that to mine. Right now the wire comes out of the bottom of the hitch and lays on the bed going forward to a 12 volt plug under the tool box.
While your at it, add a jumper for the compressor switch and put a switch in your side compartment, maybe even an air hose extension to dump air from the compartment. Both should be easy enough to to.
I only did the wireless thing because I already had it.
Pastor_Scott_777
Member
Quite a list of mods to ours. Living in ours full time, and still active duty USCG, I get very little time to actually DO the mods, let alone time to picture and detail them. A recent back injury has me down for a few days of recovery time, so I guess I better get to detailing our changes, huh?
Free mod = moved the tp holder where it should be.
For less than $40 dollars at local hardware store, and voille: fresh water manifold, with quick detach fresh water hose. Now, fresh water is quickly & easily distributed where we need it; including a spare hose.
For about $2.50 at same hardware store, and now our shower hose dosen't split at the end anymore!
Now, we never worry 'bout drinking water taste, and have bottle water for pennies (instead of dollars!) per gallon. Another trip to local hardware store, another $45 dollars, but oh so easy to do. Once you get over the gut wrenching feeling of drilling into your nice new counter top. Oh, and make REALLY sure you have permission from the boss!!!
For the couch, there are three mods pictured here: 1) the halogen lights w/ LED bulbs & individual dimmers, mounted in surface mount boxes, 2) surround sound speakers (plain black ones) for our blue-ray player, and 3) a small set of computer speakers w/ power & volume control box, that you can see in the bottom left of the second picture.
That's all for now. I will post a link to a photo sharing site (photobucket?) as soon as I download all our pics, sort and lable them...
Pastor Scott Lambright, Sharon (the boss), Charlie Brown & Delilah (the chihuahua posse)
Biker's for Christ - Port Angeles, WA
2001 International 8100, pulling:
2009 Cyclone 3912, hauling:
2006 Vulcan 900 & 1995 Savage 650 w/ Velorex sidecar
Free mod = moved the tp holder where it should be.
For less than $40 dollars at local hardware store, and voille: fresh water manifold, with quick detach fresh water hose. Now, fresh water is quickly & easily distributed where we need it; including a spare hose.
For about $2.50 at same hardware store, and now our shower hose dosen't split at the end anymore!
Now, we never worry 'bout drinking water taste, and have bottle water for pennies (instead of dollars!) per gallon. Another trip to local hardware store, another $45 dollars, but oh so easy to do. Once you get over the gut wrenching feeling of drilling into your nice new counter top. Oh, and make REALLY sure you have permission from the boss!!!
For the couch, there are three mods pictured here: 1) the halogen lights w/ LED bulbs & individual dimmers, mounted in surface mount boxes, 2) surround sound speakers (plain black ones) for our blue-ray player, and 3) a small set of computer speakers w/ power & volume control box, that you can see in the bottom left of the second picture.
That's all for now. I will post a link to a photo sharing site (photobucket?) as soon as I download all our pics, sort and lable them...
Pastor Scott Lambright, Sharon (the boss), Charlie Brown & Delilah (the chihuahua posse)
Biker's for Christ - Port Angeles, WA
2001 International 8100, pulling:
2009 Cyclone 3912, hauling:
2006 Vulcan 900 & 1995 Savage 650 w/ Velorex sidecar
porthole
Retired
Finally finished my garage tie downs.
I prefer the ATB stuff, aluminum load track, beveled and non beveled.
The factory tie downs are to few and in the wrong places for me
I now have the aluminum track down both sides (not beveled) across the front and back and down the center.
The center track is offset because of the golf cart. The cart rides over the tie downs and the rear tire sits on the rear loop.
I switched the left side chock from a Bike Pro to a Condor. The Condor allows locking in without using a bolt. Very easy to move out of the way once the bike is out.
I also moved the bike over as far as I could to the left. There isn’t much room with an Electric Glide and a golf cart. And for your Harley guys, I am using Wild Ones 575’s, these are a bit wider then factory bars, they stick out past the fairing.
I use the 3 tab tie down rings. Same price as 2 tab. And I only use M&R straps, they are the best.
I prefer the ATB stuff, aluminum load track, beveled and non beveled.
The factory tie downs are to few and in the wrong places for me
I now have the aluminum track down both sides (not beveled) across the front and back and down the center.
The center track is offset because of the golf cart. The cart rides over the tie downs and the rear tire sits on the rear loop.
I switched the left side chock from a Bike Pro to a Condor. The Condor allows locking in without using a bolt. Very easy to move out of the way once the bike is out.
I also moved the bike over as far as I could to the left. There isn’t much room with an Electric Glide and a golf cart. And for your Harley guys, I am using Wild Ones 575’s, these are a bit wider then factory bars, they stick out past the fairing.
I use the 3 tab tie down rings. Same price as 2 tab. And I only use M&R straps, they are the best.
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1231ChaseB
Well-known member
Question for Porthole about bathroom soap dispensor ! There is a very limited amount of space to put the soap dispensor in bathroom and i was wondering where you got that one ?
chaseb
chaseb
1231ChaseB
Well-known member
OK thanks ! The wife really liked your idea so i'll have one in there before the day is over !
chaseb
chaseb
porthole
Retired
Look - measure at least three times - it is tight in there.
What I did, once deciding on the spot was to use a 1/16" bit from underneath and I only drilled in a short distance.
Then, using a flashlight standing on end underneath, I checked above for the "spot of light".
I got it the first time, but this did give me the option to fine tune. I used a spade bit.
What I did, once deciding on the spot was to use a 1/16" bit from underneath and I only drilled in a short distance.
Then, using a flashlight standing on end underneath, I checked above for the "spot of light".
I got it the first time, but this did give me the option to fine tune. I used a spade bit.
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1231ChaseB
Well-known member
Hey Porthole ! Sometime's i get lucky because i got the dispensor in there and made no mistake's ! The wife is very happy with your idea !
chaseb
chaseb
porthole
Retired
Both soap dispensers constantly dripped - cheap home depot junk.
And the galley sink was rusting under the dripped soap.
Returned both to HD and went to Lowes and got two nice brushed nickel dispensers that so far have worked perfect (4 weeks)
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porthole
Retired
A month or so ago I finally got rid of my last Shurflo 5.7. It was warrantied and a new style pump replaces it, model # 4048. This is a non variable speed pump and just works.
Pressure is good as well as volume (rated at 4.0 gpm).
Although the new pump is quieter then the 5.7 was, I thought I could make it better. I have already added foam to all the water lines and secured hoses from rattling against other items.
I added a Jabsco water line accumulator. This really helped and the pump is about as quiet as can be.
Pressure is good as well as volume (rated at 4.0 gpm).
Although the new pump is quieter then the 5.7 was, I thought I could make it better. I have already added foam to all the water lines and secured hoses from rattling against other items.
I added a Jabsco water line accumulator. This really helped and the pump is about as quiet as can be.
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porthole
Retired
Along with my "water" mods I added this water usage meter to my tool box. We stopped at the new camping world on the way home from the Copkae, NY rally and this meter was on sale for $15.00.
We will at time run with full water on our trips but just as frequently I only want to carry enough for the actual road travel.
I'm hoping this will be more accurate then the panel inside.
I can't find it on the CW site, but this is the SKU #182855000890
We will at time run with full water on our trips but just as frequently I only want to carry enough for the actual road travel.
I'm hoping this will be more accurate then the panel inside.
I can't find it on the CW site, but this is the SKU #182855000890
