12 volt lighting and fridg and furnace
- Thread starter Bobby A
- Start date
Dahillbilly
Well-known member
make sure connections are tight & clean, especially the ground both ends
We haven’t done much of anything except check terminals on the battery to make sure that they were tight. In the middle the night I noticed that the fridge had an E1 code then I turned it off and then a little while later I turn it back on and then it had an E0 code. Does anybody know what those mean? Thank you.
Bogie
Well-known member
"Is the new battery bad?" That is possible but unlikely.
You don't say what RV or refrigerator you have. You can google "RV refrigerator error code E0" or E1 for your specific refrigerator see what those codes mean.
It sounds like a possible converter problem.
Do you have a volt meter? If you are on shore power, the voltage across the battery terminals should be around 13.2 volts. If you don't have a volt meter, your monitor panel should give you some indication of battery voltage. If it only has lights, while on shore power the lights show a full battery (from converter voltage) even if no battery is connected.
Check your converter. Make sure it is powered. Also, many converters have output fuses built into the converter. Check for open fuses if your converter has them.
You don't say what RV or refrigerator you have. You can google "RV refrigerator error code E0" or E1 for your specific refrigerator see what those codes mean.
It sounds like a possible converter problem.
Do you have a volt meter? If you are on shore power, the voltage across the battery terminals should be around 13.2 volts. If you don't have a volt meter, your monitor panel should give you some indication of battery voltage. If it only has lights, while on shore power the lights show a full battery (from converter voltage) even if no battery is connected.
Check your converter. Make sure it is powered. Also, many converters have output fuses built into the converter. Check for open fuses if your converter has them.
Sorry guys, my computer fried last night also so I am working off my wife’s phone. It did turn out to be that the converter fuses were bad. My friend came over with his voltmeter and changed all three fuses in the converter. I now have lights and everything is functioning correctly and the converter is charging the battery. The problem is now, the refrigerator does not get cold, it’s at 60° all day. The fridge raider is RM 3962, I just put a new cooling unit last summer. Need some help here guys. Thank you.
Bogie
Well-known member
Here is a link to a RM 3962 service manual. There is some trouble shooting info on page 4 and 5.
Hope that helps.
https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Service%20Manual,%20RM3762%20&%20RM3962.pdf
Hope that helps.
https://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/Service%20Manual,%20RM3762%20&%20RM3962.pdf
Sorry guys I’ve been out all day. Trying to buy a computer. The cooling unit should be under warranty. It was about this time last year that it was installed. I’m not exactly sure when may June July I’m not sure. Thank you for the link I will try to check that out later. Again, I am working off my wife’s phone and we are really trying to get our self settled in after nine months of being away. Yes I know, refrigerator is priority. However, if I don’t know what I’m doing, I have to be able to do things that I do know how to do. I do have a repair guy supposed to be coming out in the next day or two. As of right now we’re working out of coolers and buying a lot of ice. Thank you for all who are trying to help out here.
finally got a new computer up and running now. I had the rv tech out yesterday, he did a few things and thought it was working. Several hour later it still wasn't getting cold. I called and told him and he couldn't get out today. He called me today and said he has a couple things for me to check tomorrow morning, he has a full day but will try to fit me in at some point I will keep you guys posted.
wdk450
Well-known member
BTW, do you make a special effort to keep your trailer as level as possible when the refrigerator is running? Running the ammonia adsorbsion refrigerators out of level (more than is comfortable to walk in for units made within the last 15 years - near perfectly level for older units) for more than about an hour can cause the fluid pipes to clog up and ruin the cooling unit. In travelling down the road it is assumed that the leveling "averages out", although the ARP refrigerator protection device cautions about pulling up mountain grades for long periods of time with the refrigerator on. See: https://www.arprv.com/damage-rv-fridge.php
Yes its level but thank you for mentioning it.
UPDATE,
My RV tech whom I have great faith in, he has been working very hard for me. He has been on the phone to Dometic with model # Serial # and Product #s, Dometic is telling him that its the Control Module that is bad. Dometic does not make this Module no more. They gave him the original part # and the replacement #. They told him if he can find it to only use those two parts numbers because there are ones out there that says they will work but they won't. I am in a bit of a pickle hear guys. I just replaced the cooling unit last year. So, if anyone can help me find either one of the two part numbers I am about to give, PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP, I would be forever greatful. Original part # 3851005029 the replacment part # is 385100501, again, Dometic told him to ONLY use one of the two, NOTHING ELSE. Thank you so much.
Bobby A
Bogie
Well-known member
Do a google search......"dometic part no 3851005029"
Also search with the other part number.
I found at least one of the original here. https://www.parksccd.shop/product/dometic-3851005029-refrigerator-control-circuit-board/
Since they seem scarce, you might want to contact any company that says they have one to make sure they in fact have the part. Some I looked at say out of stock.
Also search with the other part number.
I found at least one of the original here. https://www.parksccd.shop/product/dometic-3851005029-refrigerator-control-circuit-board/
Since they seem scarce, you might want to contact any company that says they have one to make sure they in fact have the part. Some I looked at say out of stock.
Last edited:
Bogie,
WOW, that is amazing !!! thank you so much, I was on the site and just getting ready to place an order and my RV tech called. I can get a brand new fridge for 900 dollars, and the place that we got the cooling unit from last year is going to reimburse me 50% of the cost of the cooling unit. I'm just going to be done throwing parts into this 13 year old fridge that has served me very very well throughout all those years. I appreciate your time looking into this for me.
Next question. I understand that I could put a 10 cubic foot residential unit into the same hole as my 8 cubic foot original RV fridge as long as the hole is 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep and 60 inches tall. I would like to get feedback from those that has made the switch or has some knowledge of doing this. What brands should I look at ?? Thank you all so much.
WOW, that is amazing !!! thank you so much, I was on the site and just getting ready to place an order and my RV tech called. I can get a brand new fridge for 900 dollars, and the place that we got the cooling unit from last year is going to reimburse me 50% of the cost of the cooling unit. I'm just going to be done throwing parts into this 13 year old fridge that has served me very very well throughout all those years. I appreciate your time looking into this for me.
Next question. I understand that I could put a 10 cubic foot residential unit into the same hole as my 8 cubic foot original RV fridge as long as the hole is 24 inches wide by 24 inches deep and 60 inches tall. I would like to get feedback from those that has made the switch or has some knowledge of doing this. What brands should I look at ?? Thank you all so much.
Well, I figured I would post an update to my 2 issues which has been resolved. On the 12 volt lighting issue, it turns out to be a bad battery which by the way is an AGM that has served me for many years, also, there was a bad 30amp fuse in the converter, once I replaced all three fuses and a new battery all systems are back to normal.
2nd issue, refrigerator, I ended up buying a regular residential unit from ABC warehouse and it fit perfect in the hole that Hearland provided with the original fridge. So, I figured I would post a final update on these issue to help someone else. Thanks to all whom posted.
Bobby A
2nd issue, refrigerator, I ended up buying a regular residential unit from ABC warehouse and it fit perfect in the hole that Hearland provided with the original fridge. So, I figured I would post a final update on these issue to help someone else. Thanks to all whom posted.
Bobby A
david-steph2018
Well-known member
Thanks for the update
In the process of doing that, thanks for mentioning it.
