1st Recaulk of Roof

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
Due to the fact that a unit sits out on the dealer's lot for periods of time, how long should you wait to check out the caulking on your roof. I know to do preventive maintenance and not wait for it to start leaking but is there a rule of thumb for this. I keep my unit stored under cover and have only had it out twice. You think it's time for an inspection?
Also, wouldn't it be better to remove the old stuff and just redo it with new caulk instead of just letting it build up with multiple layers?
Seems that everything I've seen and read is to just inspect and patch the cracks you find. I think if it doesn't show any cracks, I'll just wipe it with 303 for the UV protection. Think this would help prolong the caulking?
Thanks in advance
 

Garypowell

Well-known member
I am no expert but I would inspect it as soon as possible. One little spot missed at the manufacturing phase can lead to quick deterioration. I have not ever found a problem in my 5 rigs but if you are one of the few unlucky ones you'll kick yourself for not doing it.
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
As Gary mentioned, easy to visually inspect (send the kids up to look if you're shaky on the roof). I look every time I am up on my roof. Look for cracks in the caulking (aged and shrinking), or areas missed in original installation (shortage of caulk, or edges coming up because of poor installation).

As with Gary, I have not found problems in my coaches until the 4-5 year mark. Others may be different depending on ambient conditions - sun is harsher, and lots of temperature fluctuations cause concerns with caulking. As well, washing the roof twice a year, and cleaning the surface of the caulking as a result, helps preserve its life.

If yours in undercover, you should be fine until the 4-5 year mark - I hear others use 303, so I assume it does not have petroleum solvents as an ingredient (bad for EPDM, and caulking) and should be fine. I cannot comment on its ability to protect caulking.

When you get to repairs/replacement of the caulk, it is best to remove the old (real PITA!) but I have cleaned with a toothbrush and layered on a new caulk (same as old caulk) to get me through to the next year).

Hope this helps,
Brian
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
At a previous rally seminar, Dicor recommended NOT trying to remove the old caulk. Doing so may cause damage to the EPDM. The self-leveling caulk does not build up a large lump, but flows out. You can dress it up by using a plastic paint spatula to smooth it out further.

I inspect my caulk seams every time I wash the roof (2 - 3 times during the summer). It's been recaulked twice since we've had it, even though there were no leaks or appearance of significant deterioration. My rig is outside and uncovered all the time, winter and summer.
 

olcoon

Well-known member
I've heard the same thing John just said in post #5, from Dicor. However they did say to clean the caulk area with something like soap & water (Dawn dish washing soap) before applying the caulk, and let it dry completely so the new caulk will bond with the old. I've done it once on our 2011 Elk Ridge, and cleaned not only the old caulk, but the area around it.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
I agree with John and Roy, that is also what I do. Clean areas lightly and reapply self leveling caulk. I especially focus on seams at both the front and back caps.

There are low spots about 4 inches in from the sides on both caps at the seam where the side-edge bull-nose ends. The EPDM lays a little lower at that point creating spots for water to pool easily. I have cleaned along these areas and applied Dicor self leveling caulk annually.

I also check all other areas for obvious deterioration and reapply as needed. Trace
 

olcoon

Well-known member
One more thing, Dicor said to ALWAYS use their self leveling caulk, and to NEVER use the same caulk you use on the sides. The reason for this is that if you don't use the self leveling caulk on the rubber roof, the other caulk will cause the rubber roof to deteriorate. The self leveling caulk is specially formulated to be used with the rubber roof.
 

whp4262

Well-known member
Thanks for the replies. Are ou saying that some can go 4 years without having to recaulk?

I wouldn't bet on the caulking lasting 4 years. My rig was only 4 years old and developed a leak because of bad caulking above the dinette slide. I didn't catch it in time and now I have a nasty repair that I will have to address sometime this summer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I recently went over both end cap caulk lines with 4 inch wide Eternabond tape. I also ran long (trailer-length) 1-1/2 inch wide strips where the drip rails contact the roof, as that caulking was failing and the rainwater was getting behind the drip rails. Supposedly, all of this will need not maintenance.
 

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
Like the idea of the Eternabond tape. Is it removable. Seems to be pretty permanent when applied. I want to add MaxxAir vent covers also. Thinking of going around the vent with 4" tape 1st and then installing the covers. That should make it a one time job to last. How much overlap do you do on the front and rear cap? After viewing this stuff on youtube, it seems to be a better alternative than layering caulk twice a year.Anybody else using this stuff? Thanks in advance.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
Eternabond is not removable. I know some folks have used it pro-actively along seams and at joints. I used it once to repair a small tear.
I was told by a high end coach repair tech to only use it sparingly, as needed. A quick-fix, so to speak.
His reason, after about five to six years, it begins to deteriorate and will become a mess, lasting only about half as long as a EPDM roof. Trace
 

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
I watched a video on their removal process. They used a heat gun and pulled the top rubber coat off it leaving the gunk but you can clean and lay a new strip in place. For a real 5 years worry free of leaks, it might still be a good solution against having a pile of caulk biannual build up on the roof. Like to hear from others who have used it.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
I believe the actual manufactures would say to inspect it every 3 months. I would not wait to inspect it. It costs nothing do get up on top of it and take a look. When you are going to the National Rally, you can get with HL and purchase a couple of tubes. Easy stuff!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Eternabond Tape Life Expectancy: See "How Long Does Eternabond Last?" on this webpage: http://www.eternabond.com/articles.asp?id=206

"Also, EternaBond® has an expected life (depending on where you live) of 18-35 years exposed to the weather."

Thanks for the link Bill.

I've also heard negative remarks from dealer techs, but at the time I wondered if they were just making it up. Some years later I'm pretty sure that's the case.
 

'Lil Guy'

Well-known member
Just sounds like the Eternabond is the way to go. Thinking about cleaning the roof on my rig and doing the front cap at roof and the vents. If it's a one time deal for many years it just sounds like the way to go and would be neater. Maybe the sides at the drip rail also. Everything I read about it with a few exceptions is good. Life expectancy is good and the shelf life of any unused is about 5 years. Don't want to have to redo it twice a year with caulk if this stuff will work. I won't have this rig that many years anyway. If I'm going to use it, I'd rather do it now instead of putting it down over a multiple piles of caulk. Someone had better hurry up and talk me out of this.lol
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Baker:
BTW, I found the Eternabond tape in the sizes I needed on Amazon.com. I prepped the surfaces with rubbing alcohol on a rag. I used the rounded end of a soft plastic handle instead of a pressure roller. Cold temperatures might make you use their primer, so maybe you can wait until the surface is above 40 degrees (and the roll of tape will be easier to work with). Here is another helpful Eternabond reference page:
https://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/eb_hvac_tips_install.pdf
 
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