My step son has a 2007 Chev 2500 Duramax with 85000 miles on it. To get it started he has to use starting fluid. Doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Doesn't matter if it has been running recently, or has been shut off for weeks. I don't remember the code number, but the fault is "low fuel rail pressure". Once the engine is started (with ether) it runs and idles fine. I can drive it with no problems. The only thing I notice when driving the vehicle is, if you ease down on the throttle the engine will accelerate normally, but if you stomp down on the throttle the engine acts like it is flooding and black smoke comes out the tail pipe. If you let up on the throttle, after a few seconds, the engine will appear to respond normally. I had one person tell me he thought it might be the fuel pressure sensor located on the fuel rail near the left rear cylinder head. That sensor is @450.00 at NAPA. I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced a situation such as this and what the repairs entailed. Any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.
2007 Duramax won't start
- Thread starter rnewk52
- Start date
Westwind
Well-known member
Hi John, I would get onto the http://wwwduramaxforum.com and ask your question. I think you will get quick response and more help there. I've used it a couple of times when I had an issue with my 2008 and they were a big help.
GOTTOYS
Well-known member
Those new parts are expensive. Be sure to get a proper diagnoses at a reputable shop! Don't just start shotgunning parts at it without knowing for sure what's wrong. There are a lot sensors on there and they may or may not have anything to do with the problem. Good luck!...Don
Lynn1130
Well-known member
A couple of things here. Please tell him not to use starting fluid. There is a reasonable chance that will do damage. Diesels were not designed to run on starting fluid. Pump the fuel filter primer and try to start it. Is there fuel leaking around the filter, or filter head?
Start with the fuel filter. When was it changed last? Check the o-rings, WIF sensor on the bottom of the filter (cracked, bad o-ring) bleeder screw at the top, bad o-ring, not seated properly. O-rings in the filter head. With that mileage it is about time for the o-rings in the filter head to be cracked or broken.
The fuel filter and filter head can cause issues and if that is what it is it is a simple and inexpensive fix. If that is not the problem then it gets more complicated and expensive and will take an expert diagnostic to avoid shotgunning parts (that can be hundreds of dollars).
Here is another easy check before getting into the big ticket items-MAF sensor. Located on the top of the air filter housing with a wire to it. It takes a small star screwdriver to get it off. I forget the size. Be careful with it the insides are delicate. Use MAF cleaner (local auto parts store) to clean it. This item tells the computer how much air is coming through and adjusts fuel to that reading. If it is dirty it can screw up a bunch of things. If he is running a K&N filter GET RID OF IT. Replace it with a stock filter. The oil from the K&N gums up the MAF.
Start with the fuel filter. When was it changed last? Check the o-rings, WIF sensor on the bottom of the filter (cracked, bad o-ring) bleeder screw at the top, bad o-ring, not seated properly. O-rings in the filter head. With that mileage it is about time for the o-rings in the filter head to be cracked or broken.
The fuel filter and filter head can cause issues and if that is what it is it is a simple and inexpensive fix. If that is not the problem then it gets more complicated and expensive and will take an expert diagnostic to avoid shotgunning parts (that can be hundreds of dollars).
Here is another easy check before getting into the big ticket items-MAF sensor. Located on the top of the air filter housing with a wire to it. It takes a small star screwdriver to get it off. I forget the size. Be careful with it the insides are delicate. Use MAF cleaner (local auto parts store) to clean it. This item tells the computer how much air is coming through and adjusts fuel to that reading. If it is dirty it can screw up a bunch of things. If he is running a K&N filter GET RID OF IT. Replace it with a stock filter. The oil from the K&N gums up the MAF.
sjs731
Well-known member
I have a 2007 Duramax. It started to start hard/ turn over a lot and then start and would run decent until one day going down the highway it shut right off. Bad o-rings in the fuel filter housing. Take it and get it fixed. Air and dirt to injectors is bad. Also x2 on the K&N filter. No oiled filters if he happens to be running one. AFE makes dry media filters if for some reason he is against stock filters.
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Steve and Carrie
HOC# 2252
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax
B&W Companion Hitch
2012 Sundance 3300CK
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Steve and Carrie
HOC# 2252
2007 GMC 2500HD Duramax
B&W Companion Hitch
2012 Sundance 3300CK
Lynn1130
Well-known member
I agree Dave, but I would not consider maintenance items as shotgunning. The MAF sensor should be cleaned at regular intervals and checking for a fuel leak is a simple, lift the hood, pump it up, fire it up and watch the filter and head. Feel around the bottom of the filter, at the WIF for fuel. Then, If you are not mechanically inclined or like me during the summer and it is 120 in the garage you want to take it for further diagnostic, do it. In this case an hour of simple cleaning, and looking around might solve the problem and save $125 an hour labor plus parts. If you are and want to rebuild the filter head (basically just o-rings) it is about $30 but don't buy them at the dealer (stealer). And if the filter has not been changed in 15K miles, that could be highly suspect.
Diesel Place is another forum to check in to (you will find me lurking there also). There are a number of diesel mechanic types as well as some very knowledgeable vendors who will help but you will also get a number of try this or try that comments. If you cannot find it with simple and inexpensive diagnostics then have a professional look at it.
A followup on ether to start-glow plug explosion that can cause internal engine damage and operator injury.
Diesel Place is another forum to check in to (you will find me lurking there also). There are a number of diesel mechanic types as well as some very knowledgeable vendors who will help but you will also get a number of try this or try that comments. If you cannot find it with simple and inexpensive diagnostics then have a professional look at it.
A followup on ether to start-glow plug explosion that can cause internal engine damage and operator injury.
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Well, I gotta add my two cents here.
A while back my 07 Duramax died just after I started it. I had no codes and nothing looked out of place. I wound up priming the fuel system and it started.
I was talking to a friend of mine that has a lot more knowledge of diesel motors than I will ever have.
The first thing he asked me was "do you have one of the new style plastic NAPA fuel filters?"
I said yes and he said there have been a lot of people having the engine dying problems when using that filter. Followed by "get rid of it".
Even though it was a new filter I changed it right away and went back to the metal case filter. I have not had a problem since.
Well that was a long winded way to say that if you are using a plastic housing fuel filter, "get rid of it".
Peace
Dave
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A while back my 07 Duramax died just after I started it. I had no codes and nothing looked out of place. I wound up priming the fuel system and it started.
I was talking to a friend of mine that has a lot more knowledge of diesel motors than I will ever have.
The first thing he asked me was "do you have one of the new style plastic NAPA fuel filters?"
I said yes and he said there have been a lot of people having the engine dying problems when using that filter. Followed by "get rid of it".
Even though it was a new filter I changed it right away and went back to the metal case filter. I have not had a problem since.
Well that was a long winded way to say that if you are using a plastic housing fuel filter, "get rid of it".
Peace
Dave
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mobilcastle
Well-known member
Dave-I will file that one-thanks for the tip
Go to www.nicktane.com. They sell an adapter that allows you to run a Caterpillar filter. Cost for the adaptor is $100. Cost for filter is $16 each; filters twice as good as any factory filter. Eliminates the water in filter sensor. I've had mine on for 3 years now without any problems.
Joe
Joe
dave10a
Well-known member
One word about CAT filters. Make sure you know the micro filtration. Some CAT filters are 10 (with and without water seperator) and some are 2 (with and without water seperator). My truck has two filters. One is 10 (pre-filter with a water seperator) and the other is 2. So don't mix them.
First: Just a quick update on the 2007 Duramax not starting. Finally got it into a local shop and found all 8 injectors are bad, rust in the fuel rails, caused by water in the fuel and my step son not changing the fuel filter. He learned the hard ( expensive ) way that a $50.00 fuel filter or two would have prevented a $4800.00 repair. Second: Thanks to everyone with their help and suggestions, and a special thanks to those of you who suggested the nictane setup. I have one ordered for my truck. Remember, maintenance is key; filters and oil are cheap.!
Lynn1130
Well-known member
John,
Sorry to hear about the injectors but sounds like he and you are taking some good preventive measures to keep it from coming back.
You might also look into a lift pump to help with a good flow of fuel to help prevent air in the system that can be an injector killer too.
Sorry to hear about the injectors but sounds like he and you are taking some good preventive measures to keep it from coming back.
You might also look into a lift pump to help with a good flow of fuel to help prevent air in the system that can be an injector killer too.
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