2015 Landmark Availability / Lead Time On Ordering

[aRAYwego]

Excellent point Dan. The gfci does not trip before the inverter shuts down with the E03 fault code. Hopefully the dealership can figure it out quickly. Thanks for all the replies. Will post what they find

 

[aRAYwego]

Got the update from the dealer today. Pinhole leak in the icemaker line like I thought. Fridge/inverter problem a little more complicated. I'm being told that the fridge at startup is drawing 9.3 amps and the inverter is only rated for 8.2 amps thus triggering the load error. How can mine be different than all the others with this option? They are going to call HL Monday to see what to do.

 

[danemayer]

Based on the Inverter Specs, I think it's supposed to handle a 9.3 amps startup load (1120 watts at 120V). If it runs for 30 seconds, that would suggest the frig is continuously drawing 9.3 amps instead of dropping back to 1 - 1.5 amps after a second or two. Maybe it's stuck in defrost mode or something like that.



Electrical Specifications – AC Output

Continuous power* 1,000 Watts
Surge power (peak)** 2,000 Watts
(10 sec)** 1,000 - 1,500 Watts
(1 sec)** 1,500 - 2,000 Watts
(0.2 sec)** >2,000 Watts

 

[aRAYwego]

A very good possibility. Do you know if theres a way to shut off defrost mode. Say if you were on a lengthy road trip and didnt want it to enter defrost mode and waste a fridge worth of food? Something would have to be different with mine since I cant find anyone with this issue and I know this has been a popular option.

 

[danemayer]

I think it's all automatic. Might be time for the tech to call Electrolux/Frigidaire (800.944.9044) to discuss his 9.3 amp finding.

 

[porthole]

Those numbers would have me questioning why a 1000 watt inverter in the first place. Best case at 90% efficient is only 7.5 amps continuos.

 

[aRAYwego]

Yeah kinda curious what HL will say to fix the problem. Bigger inverter? Problem with fridge?

 

[danemayer]

The frig manual specs normal operation at around 1 to 1.5 amps. No doubt there's a startup demand that's higher.

 

[aRAYwego]

So the final word on this was faulty inverter. HL sent a new one to the dealership and now im just trying to find the time to get the trailer down there for a swap out. I did find out that the inverter is ONLY to be used when the trailer is hooked to the truck. Guessing you need the constant charging of batteries for it to handle the load.

 

[jmgratz]

So the final word on this was faulty inverter. HL sent a new one to the dealership and now im just trying to find the time to get the trailer down there for a swap out. I did find out that the inverter is ONLY to be used when the trailer is hooked to the truck. Guessing you need the constant charging of batteries for it to handle the load.

A converter changes 110 volt to 12 volt and charges the battery. The converter will only work with 110 volts supplying the trailer either by the power pedestal or via generator. The alternator on the tow vehicle charges the battery with the trailer is plugged into the tow vehicle. The function of the converter is to keep the trailer battery charged. If you are not supplying 110 volts to the trailer then the 12 volt systems will run off of the battery only. Changing the converter out with a new one is a simple task to do yourself if you have any basic mechanical knowledge. Just be sure to disconnect the battery and the 110 volt power to the trailer when doing so. BTW and Inverter changes 12 volts to 110 volts. The Inverter is used to run the residential refrigerator when not plugged into 110 volts or using a generator.

 

[danemayer]

A converter changes 110 volt to 12 volt and charges the battery. The converter will only work with 110 volts supplying the trailer either by the power pedestal or via generator. The alternator on the tow vehicle charges the battery with the trailer is plugged into the tow vehicle. The function of the converter is to keep the trailer battery charged. If you are not supplying 110 volts to the trailer then the 12 volt systems will run off of the battery only. Changing the converter out with a new one is a simple task to do yourself if you have any basic mechanical knowledge. Just be sure to disconnect the battery and the 110 volt power to the trailer when doing so. BTW and Inverter changes 12 volts to 110 volts. The Inverter is used to run the residential refrigerator when not plugged into 110 volts or using a generator.

Jim,

This particular problem is with the inverter that powers the residential refrigerator option from the batteries.

 

[jmgratz]

Jim,

This particular problem is with the inverter that powers the residential refrigerator option from the batteries.

Ok just must have misread it..

 

[aRAYwego]

I guess I was under the understanding that I could run the refer off the inverter at anytime

 

[mattpopp]

I guess I was under the understanding that I could run the refer off the inverter at anytime

You can if you have enough batteries to provide the amperage load needed to continuously operate it. One or two batteries will be drained pretty quickly running a residential fridge.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[aRAYwego]

True but just thought it would allow me to use it longer than 30 seconds

 

[jbeletti]

I'm able to drive all day long with the refer being powered by the inverter being powered by 2 batteries getting only a charge from the truck while driving.

 

[TravelTiger]

This seems odd. Are you saying you can't turn on the residential fridge (using the inverter only) a few days before a trip?

We usually turn on our (non-residential) fridge (propane mode) a few days before to get it cool, then load food the day before we leave.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danemayer]

This seems odd. Are you saying you can't turn on the residential fridge (using the inverter only) a few days before a trip?

We usually turn on our (non-residential) fridge (propane mode) a few days before to get it cool, then load food the day before we leave.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You should be able to turn on the inverter and residential refrigerator and run it without being connected to shore power or truck. I did this on a dealer unit in Oklahoma a few weeks ago. BUT, batteries under a constant load will only last as long as they last. Don't know that anyone has tested or calculated the drain to do an estimate.

 

[aRAYwego]

Its possible I just had a bad inverter. HL did send the dlr a new inverter but not sure if its because the old one had a bad GFCI or the inverter itself was bad. Taking the coach in this morning to have the new one installed. Will know more when I pick it up tomorrow. I do know that when I had just a 110 cord hooked to the coach it took about 1 1/2 hours for the fridge to get to operating temp. Not sure how long the batteries could last without the tow veh charging them.

 

[porthole]

Getting the reefer cold will be the biggest drain. But once you are at operating temp it should be fairly efficient.
I don't have a residential refrigerator, but I am running a Dometic ice maker and cooler/freezer off an inverter. With two 6-volt batteries I easily get overnight operation. And that is staying in the trailer. So add a few lights, water usage etc.