2016 Cyclone 4200 Read Flood Lights

jimandjean

Active Member
So, honestly, a bit embarrassed to be asking this. But i can't seem to locate the switch for the flood lights on the back (not the LED strip on the canopy) but the pair of floods mounted up near the roof.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Jim
 

LBR

Well-known member
We don't have your 4200, but ours has 5 switches for lighting....a gang of three plus a double next to them....they control....

Mood lighting for rear side awning
Mood lighting for rear awning
Rear door porch light
Rear cargo lights (your question)
Inside garage lights

In order, from drivers side towards passenger side.
 

jimandjean

Active Member
Okay gang, you can throw all the rotten tomatoes you wish - totally deserve it. Hmmm, could this shiny new camper actually have blown bulbs? Yup, sure enough. So, a new set of LED replacements are on the way. Now the next problem, ice maker lot ruptured, oddly enough, after several weeks of use post winterizing. So not sure what that's about. Looks like i'll need to drop the belly cover to do the repair, joy.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Okay gang, you can throw all the rotten tomatoes you wish - totally deserve it. Hmmm, could this shiny new camper actually have blown bulbs? Yup, sure enough. So, a new set of LED replacements are on the way. Now the next problem, ice maker lot ruptured, oddly enough, after several weeks of use post winterizing. So not sure what that's about. Looks like i'll need to drop the belly cover to do the repair, joy.

I assume you mean the ice maker water line ruptured, if water is left in the line and temps outside drop below freezing, the outside portion will freeze and split.

If you have a residential refrigerator, take a look at our owner-written Residential Refrigerator Guide.
 

jimandjean

Active Member
I do mean that line. But I flooded that line and the freezer w antifreeze. I dewinterized and sanitized the line under normal pressure. I ran the freezer for weeks. It ruptured today.

The miserable part is it ruptured under the sink but inside a pex sheath so it's going to be downright awful to repair.


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LBR

Well-known member
Chances may be that since the refer is in a slide out, that line may have rubbed against an immovable object and wore thru.
 

jimandjean

Active Member
The rupture is under the sink. So not in the 'slide' it's odd not sure why it blew.


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danemayer

Well-known member
inside a pex sheath so it's going to be downright awful to repair.

First I've heard that Heartland has run the ice maker water line inside PEX tubing. Usually it's just an exposed poly line that connects to a valve attached to the kitchen PEX line. I've attached a picture.
 

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  • supply line cutoff annotated2.jpg
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jimandjean

Active Member
That's how mine is Dan, but then almost like a conduit they ran my white ice maker line inside pex. Will send pics tomorrow. Wish it wasn't there just in the way of me finding the point of breakage.


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jbeletti

Well-known member
Jim,

If your 1/4" poly ice maker line really is run inside a section of 1/2" PEX, perhaps this is more of a blessing in disguise. Assuming your refer is in a slide out, the ice maker line eventually has to penetrate the frame rail and follow the electric lines through a flex guard and eventually, go up through the slide floor to get to the refer.

In this case, the PEX likely ends inside the underbelly on the back of the frame rail. As you'll need to splice the 1/4" poly to eliminate the leak point, consider disconnecting it at the shut-off valve, connecting a new section (tape) to the old section, then pull the new in from the outside of the frame. Make your splice outside, then push the splice inside the frame.

On my new unit, I decided to upgrade my 1/4" poly to stainless steel braided residential ice maker line. I tied a 20 foot section onto the original poly under my kitchen sink and pulled it through the underbelly. I did have to cut a 3-sided flap in one place in the underbelly to reach in and find the line to help it along. That flap will tape up nicely with Scrim Tape.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Here's a picture from under the sink. Super tough to get too, looks more open than it is cause i could stretch my arm in with the camera. I'm going to have to carefully cut the pex down by the floor to expose the break in the line, then was thinking maybe use this to fix: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C11NV...UTF8&colid=26VTW7IZODKO0&coliid=I3EX4GZ9GTGHV
View attachment 51833

I agree with Jim B. Find the other end of the PEX and try to use the PEX as a conduit to pull the new water line.
 

jimandjean

Active Member
Love the idea guys - I'll get on it post result. Really appreciate the responses - may just save me from performing surgery in the cabinet.


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jimandjean

Active Member
Update gang. First off thanks again for suggestion to go from the bottom to do the repair. Unfortunately after removing the gas line under coach to get the underbelly opened up it became apparent that the access was above a tank with numerous additional items in the way.

Because the leak was spraying out of the pex vs bubbling over I anticipated the break was near the top of the pex.

I used a pipe cutter to remove 4" of pex and sure enough a kink created a split.

Bought a union and installed - done and done. One mod I'll make is a support to prevent another kink in the line.

bb4edddbb8898bf00ce22d7d50b096df.jpg



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jimandjean

Active Member
Oh yes, and new high output leds on the back. Where this whole thread started. They look great.


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