220 Volt stackable washer/dryer

[jason892]

Hi All,

I discovered late Friday that the new LG combo unit I had just put in my old camper will not fit through the bathroom door of my new 3875FB (after pulling every muscle in my back getting it to that point). I measured every single door, removed fixtures and the door to the closet but failed to measure the one door I walked through no less than 100 times, lesson learned.... So, now I'm shopping for a 24" stackable unit that I can get quickly. I've found a GE unit that is just under $1k at Lowe's, but it's a 220 system. My closet has two 120 receptacles, one for washer and the other for dryer (labeled). I'm assuming that since these are labeled independently, they are from the two sides of my 50 amp service so I could either replace them with a single 220 plug or wire out two 120v tails from the connection panel on the unit but wanted to see if anyone else has done that before (and are the two receptacles actually from each side of the main). Any thoughts? I have read several of good reviews on the Splendide's, but they are 5-600 more and aren't readily available so hoping somebody has used a true residential stacking unit and can offer advice on this particular topic.

 

[TravelTiger]

Others will chime in but I would not bet the plugs are on separate legs. Ours in our BC are not.

if I were you, it might be more cost-effective to work on the doorway to get it in, rather than try to force something that's not meant for RV use.

I think we had to remove the door to our bedroom and remove the door catches on the door of the w/d closet to get our Splendide in.



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[Mattman]

What's the amparage? Check your wire size. Are the new units 220/120 or strait 220? So do you need two hots and the neutral or just two hots? If they go directly to your panel and you don't need a neutral, phase identify your white wire all black and land both on a 2 pole breaker. If you do need it then I believe to grab a hot from two different feeds would be a violation of the NEC. The wires need to be grouped together in the same cable and disconnect simotaniously in the panel. The wires also need to be compatible with breaker size. #14 for 15amp and #12 for 20.
If you modify the electrical work and it's not up to code, your insurance company might not cover it if it burns down. Just a thought to consider. Good luck.

 

[boatto5er]

I had to remove my bedroom door and one side of the frame to get my stackables into the bedroom.


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[lynndiwagoner]

If the area for the washer/dryer is above the front storage area I wouldn't think it would be too hard to run a new wire for 220. I don't know if the breaker panels for our RV's are set up for double breakers. If not you could do a sub-panel off of the 50A feed coming in and run the washer/dryer off of that. That might be the easiest way to do it.

 

[jason892]

After some additional investigation, we decided to go with the Splendide 2100xc. I do believe the two plugs are on separate legs but ultimately decided the additional construction support for the Splendide to handle road vibration was the better choice.

As for the door width, the door going from bedroom to front bath on the 3875FB is too narrow. Even removing the door and trim only gives 25" so a 27" W/D isn't an option without removing a wall. Not something my boss was going to ok in her brand new trailer...

 

[danemayer]

If you put a volt meter across the two outlets, hot-to-hot, a reading of 240V would tell you they're on different legs. A reading of 0V would tell you they're on the same leg.

 

[lynndiwagoner]

If you're doing this yourself, like I did, I would highly recommend installing an overflow pan.

 

[Nabo]

We have Whirlpool stackables which are wired 120. I really cant tell a lot of difference from the home 220 unit and the camper uit in drying time, maybe ten minutes longer. Other than that, they work great.