6 point leveling

[macjj]

OK second question, has anyone paid to install the 6 point system after they had already bought their coach?

Like many have said, best thing to come out for trailers and 5th wheels. Motor homes have had this option forever, why shouldn't we. Added advantage- I got a blowout, just lifted the wheels off the ground with the touch of a button. No jacks, blocks, or backbreaking effort. I called LIPPERT and got a recommendation in Jacksonville Florida. Cost about $5k, well worth the cost. Had dome issues, like leaking hoses, just replaced them myself.


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[Floridanative]

I have replaced the 50 amp circuit with a 85 amp circuit breaker. Replaced the wire with a 4g wire so it would be able to handle the extra amps. Everything worked great once. I used it again and it kept tripping the 85 amp circuit breaker and the jacks still go out of stroke. I have to admit that Mike at Heartland was very helpful with information, but it still is not fixed and, trust me, I have spent a lot on this issue with little to show for it.

 

[sjandbj]

I have replaced the 50 amp circuit with a 85 amp circuit breaker. Replaced the wire with a 4g wire so it would be able to handle the extra amps. Everything worked great once. I used it again and it kept tripping the 85 amp circuit breaker and the jacks still go out of stroke. I have to admit that Mike at Heartland was very helpful with information, but it still is not fixed and, trust me, I have spent a lot on this issue with little to show for it.

I replaced my 50 amp breaker with a 80 amp and have not had a single problem with the breaker tripping since then. As far as going out of stroke this happens a lot unless i am on a very level pad. I noticed that the jacks when retracted were 14 inches off the ground. This does not provide enough travel without putting blocks under the jacks. I lowered the jacks just one bolt hole. This has given me an extra inch to work with. I am considering going one more inch lower to allow for more travel. I feel this will resolve the going out of stroke problem. I am not sure when they went to the Sulian tires that the rig increased the height just enough to cause the problem.

Regards,
Steve

 

[danemayer]

A few years ago Lippert put out a service tip that if the 50 amp breaker was tripping during hydraulic operations, you could resolve the problem by installing an 80 amp breaker. They have withdrawn that Lip Sheet without explanation.

Even though a number of people have taken this approach with success, IMO upping the breaker size is like putting a penny in your fuse box because the fuse blows too often. It doesn't solve the real problem. Just masks it. You probably have either 1) a bind in the operation, or 2) a loose or corroded connection, or 3) inadequate battery power, or 4) a ground problem. In other words, when the pump runs, something is causing the current draw to increase above a normal level. It could be mechanical or electrical.

The out of stroke error message is probably a completely separate issue. As previously noted, either the site is too far off-level, or the jacks may not be installed correctly.

It can be difficult to find a good RV tech, or get one who will walk through the diagnosis with Lippert on the phone until the problems are resolved. But that's what it's going to take to get your problems fixed.

I'd suggest calling Lippert Customer Service and ask if they would be willing to take the lead on getting the problems fixed - contacting the service location and making arrangements for you to get things straightened out.

 

[TxCowboy]

For us laypeople, what does "going out of stroke" mean and how can it be corrected?

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

Out of stock means...
the hydraulic leveling leg has reached it's maximum travel. It can not extend any further then the length of inner and outer shafts combined.

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[danemayer]

For us laypeople, what does "going out of stroke" mean and how can it be corrected?

During the auto level operation, the brain tries to extend a jack and decides that it is fully extended (out of stroke) but the trailer did not reach the correct position. Lippert's manual says to relocate the trailer.

Picture a site where the ground is sloped down to the rear of the parking area. When leveling, the front jacks don't need to be extended very far, but the rear jacks have to be extended pretty fully.

Now add a couple of inches of slope side-to-side. The low side at the rear will need additional jack extension.

During the leveling process, the brain will try to extend the low side rear jacks and won't get any movement of the trailer. It will conclude that the jack is "out of stroke".

I suspect it's possible that a bind in the jacks, or low battery power, or other issues could also cause the system to think that it's out of stroke.

 

[TxCowboy]

Thanks, Jerrod. I understand.

 

[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

You bet ya.

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[sjandbj]

I changed from 50 to 80 amp from the recommendation from Lippert. When at Quartzsite last year they said that when the weather gets colder the fluid can cause the pump to work a little harder. I was surprised that the change was so great but they said 80 amp was the recommended breaker size. When i asked them why the manufactures don't used the 80 amp I was told it is a cost issue. Most people do not used the rig in cold weather so it is not a big problem. A 50 CB cost a little over 5 bucks while a 80 CB is over 40 dollars for a good one. I agree with Dan that just adding a larger breaker can mask a different problem if in fact the 50 amp is correct. I find it interesting that on the manufactures parts list the circuit breaker is listed as a 80amp 12v breaker p/n 135461

Regards,
Steve

 

[bobca1]

I agree with previous posts that the 6 point is wonderful and cuts a lot of time off the setup process. However for the system to successfully auto-level without using extra blocks you need to be parked in a spot that is already practically level, I think within ~2 % of level to start with (or maybe its 5%) I am sure someone can correct me if i'm wrong. This has never been a problem for me in RV parks it really is a huge time saver here. Offroad though is another matter. My first trip to Gorman was a disaster I was not prepared with extra blocks to put under the feet, I ended up strategically stacking any rocks I could find under the feet and manually leveling until I got as close to level as I could. After that trip I picked up 4 2x10s from the lumber store and cut into 8" lengths. Some places I have camped since had to use enough blocks uto add an an extra 10 or 12" under some feet. I also find the auto level will fail in these kinds of conditions, but not a big deal can manually level using the 4 buttons (front, back, left, right). If you are not going to be boondocking it then nothing to worry about here

Also note, at least on the Cyclone, that the rear feet even when retracted hang pretty low. I drag them all the time entering/exiting parking lots, when driving off road, passing though large dips in the road, etc. Because of the garage the rams can't be raised any higher (unless I cut holes in the floor!). Hopefully on Bighorn they sit higher. I ripped the spare tire off on my second offroad trip, reengineered the hanger now tire its up higher than the rear levelers. That's my only gripe about Cyclone design is that the rear levelers and spare tire are way too low for a rig that is going to be taken off road.

 

[jmgratz]

I agree with previous posts that the 6 point is wonderful and cuts a lot of time off the setup process. However for the system to successfully auto-level without using extra blocks you need to be parked in a spot that is already practically level, I think within ~2 % of level to start with (or maybe its 5%) I am sure someone can correct me if i'm wrong. This has never been a problem for me in RV parks it really is a huge time saver here. Offroad though is another matter. My first trip to Gorman was a disaster I was not prepared with extra blocks to put under the feet, I ended up strategically stacking any rocks I could find under the feet and manually leveling until I got as close to level as I could. After that trip I picked up 4 2x10s from the lumber store and cut into 8" lengths. Some places I have camped since had to use enough blocks uto add an an extra 10 or 12" under some feet. I also find the auto level will fail in these kinds of conditions, but not a big deal can manually level using the 4 buttons (front, back, left, right). If you are not going to be boondocking it then nothing to worry about here

Also note, at least on the Cyclone, that the rear feet even when retracted hang pretty low. I drag them all the time entering/exiting parking lots, when driving off road, passing though large dips in the road, etc. Because of the garage the rams can't be raised any higher (unless I cut holes in the floor!). Hopefully on Bighorn they sit higher. I ripped the spare tire off on my second offroad trip, reengineered the hanger now tire its up higher than the rear levelers. That's my only gripe about Cyclone design is that the rear levelers and spare tire are way too low for a rig that is going to be taken off road.

The rear of our Landmark is low also. We drug our ladder entering an rv park bending the ladder. Since that time we put some 'skid wheels' on the receiver hitch that came with the RV. Since adding the skid wheels we have not drug the rv as the skid wheels catch it. We found the skid wheels at Tractor Supply. We used 'u-bolts' to mount them to the hitch.

 

[BudnDonna]

Jmgratz, if you ever have a chance would you post s picture? Thanks

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

This is what I used on the toy hauler

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[BudnDonna]

Thank you

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[Jesstruckn/Jesstalkn]

I welded them on as far back as possible

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