A/C not cooling unit

[SouthernNights]

Does anyone out there know how much lower than outside temperature a "good operating" A/C should cool a trailer? We have a 2012 Landmark Grand Canyon and live in central Texas. I have the thermostat set at 75 and at 101 degrees outside in direct sun my fifth wheel is about 85 degress on the inside.

A few weeks ago I started a thread about this very thing but it kind of got side tracked.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ation-and-temperature-observations?highlight=

So I started playing around with my duct work.
Here are two links to my blog that might help. I would post it here but I cant get the spreadsheet to format correctly on this forum.
http://cloudsandoceans.blogspot.com/2012/07/improving-airflow-in-our-trailer-to.html

and part 2:

http://cloudsandoceans.blogspot.com/2012/07/beat-heat-2.html

The spread sheet will show the difference that using the TimK tent will give you. Play around with it because it is a very easy mod to do. The other baffles are not so easy but also make a big difference.

The second blog also have very easy baffles to make. Depending on how many you decide to install will determine how much time they will take.

Hope this helps.

 

[lawser]

Just an update
Heartland has agreed to fix my problem
They are going to repair the insulation in the roof
I will be taking it in in Sep.
I will be talking to the repair person when I take it in
I will also be looking at the repairs and before he closes it up
Hopefully I can get pictures as they are doing it
Will post the results when completed

 

[lawser]

Just to give everyone an update
I took it in on 10-8,I had an appointment for this day
It took them a week to look at it (Windish RV in Longmont CO)
As of today 11-1 they have ordered the ceiling panels and trim, but have not removed the ceiling panels to view the problem first hand
Heartland seems to be doing there job at this point

I would suggest anyone who has a heartland brand camper that they check there duct work (with a scope)for problems before the warrantee is up

 

[mobilcastle]

I have two air units and thermopane windows-I think if it gets over 100 degrees I will be on the move to cooler temps.(mountains)

 

[lawser]

A few weeks ago I started a thread about this very thing but it kind of got side tracked.
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ation-and-temperature-observations?highlight=

So I started playing around with my duct work.
Here are two links to my blog that might help. I would post it here but I cant get the spreadsheet to format correctly on this forum.
http://cloudsandoceans.blogspot.com/2012/07/improving-airflow-in-our-trailer-to.html

and part 2:

http://cloudsandoceans.blogspot.com/2012/07/beat-heat-2.html

The spread sheet will show the difference that using the TimK tent will give you. Play around with it because it is a very easy mod to do. The other baffles are not so easy but also make a big difference.

The second blog also have very easy baffles to make. Depending on how many you decide to install will determine how much time they will take.

Hope this helps.

I think your missing the point, you have to have something sound to start with
If you look at my pictures on my original post, when they put the roof together they mis-cut for the bathroom vent and the shower skylight, leaving no insulation in these areas
They didn't even attempt to put insulation back leaving it open to the roof deck
Also when they opened the duct work for the A/C they just broke out the insulation leaving gaps, allowing cold air to go where it shouldn't
Once I get the original insulation fixed I will do some of these recomended items
Gotta get the warranty work done first

Just currious to how many other units Heartland has built with flaws in the insulation
FYI I have worked for a plumbing and heating company and now have my own repair company
I will post more pictures when they get to ceiling open

I went to my first post and don't see the pictures will try to re-post

 

[lawser]

Maybe with pictures people will under stand what is going on

1. At the bottom is the duct, at the top is the miscut, this opening goes to the roof deck
That's why my roof is cold when I felt it when I was on top of the unit

2. Is wher they should have cut out the duct to the A/C
As you can see they just broke it out, allowing air to escape the duct work

3. Is the end of the duct work, this allows cold air to get into the fiberglass shell at the back, not helping anything
They need blocks at the last vent and better sealing/insulating properties where it meets

4. Is the inside of the duct near skylight its open to the wall allowing cold air to go where it is not suppost to be
Also if you put scope in by the wood you can see the roof deck

I have several other pictures, but as you can see the insulation was not done properly
My guess would be that about 1/2 of the cooled air forn the A/C is going through these gaps and cooling the outer shell

This is why I suggest to anyone who is still under warrantee to have it checked out

 

[Wharton]

Over the years we have had trailers with ducted air and without. We believe(no studies done) that trailer without ducted air are much cooler. That being said our BH has ducted air. To increase air flow we put in the tent, blocked the end of the ducts with fiberglass, in the bedroom pulled out the vents(this significantly increased air flow). In 90+ degree heat it is warm in the trailer but we feel a temp of around 72 is comfortable, so our "warm" is probably different from your "warm". We only have one AC but since we don't normally camp in excessive heat it works so-so. If we encounter many more 90+ degree days we will pull out the vents in the main area also and see how that goes.

 

[lawser]

I went up on Sat. to see progress
They have only taken off the trim and nothing else
So I decided to look at other new units
Here is a picture of a new Big Horn
This is from the bathroom vent with my cell phone camera
I could see it just by looking in the duct, where they installed the exhaust vent (i believe) you can see how the insulation for the duct is missing, and I could feel a gap that I assume is open to the roof deck and how there is a gap between the insulation and the bottom board
If there are too many gaps/air leaks the insulation value is greatly reduced, if heat can penetrate ond/or cold can escape

I recomend to anyone who has a Heartalnd to have there ducts checked with a scope

 

[lawser]

I went up to see the progress this last week
They have only gotten one panel down
Here is what I found
They had cut the insulation short near the kitchen power vent, leaving a gap to the roof deck
This is something I didn't expect
Makes me wounder if this is how they did the side walls and under belly
Will post more as they get the ceiling removed
I can't stress enough that anyone with a warrantee have it checked

 

[westxsrt10]

Thanks for posting your problems with the AC/ducting on your unit.
(no profile info?,what model do you have?)

You have more patience than me, I see no reason for the dealer to have you RV 3+ months to do this repair.

 

[Corvette911]

I have also noticed the poor cooling capacity of my primary AC unit (bedroom does fantastic). The main unit seems to have the ability to divert air to / from the ceiling ducts. I was able to find a more appropriate balance but may consider taking a scope to the vents for a good examination. Shutting off the ceiling vents produced some noticeable hot spots in the living area, so I had to partially close the vents and push more air from the main panel. It is cooler now, but the A/C just does not seem to be very cool when I consider an advertised R-34 ceiling insulation and dual A/C units . . . they never shut off when the temperature reaches 85+ outdoors. In contrast, the heating system is very efficient and works well when the temperature drops below freezing… no complaints there.

I bought a HeartLand RV for their reputation of quality. My mistake - reputation seems to have suffered since the acquisition by Thor. My 2011 Big Country 3450TS was purchased late in 2011. It spent nearly 3 months at the dealer for a list of warranty items with miserable results. The 200 mile one way trip to the dealer was 4x more costly than my deductible on the extended warranty. Next time, I will save myself a bunch of money and headaches and pay the $200 for a professional inspector to put electric, pressure, temperature, etc. gauges on everything that has a specification! This game of fixing defects is beyond frustrating. As for the AC issue, chalk this one up to poor design and non-existent quality controls.

BTW: If the wall paper in the kitchen is misaligned, don't take delivery. Something that small may be an indication of the overall quality . . . trust me. Overall, the RV seems to be very good, but there was a ton of quality issues with the assembly that a high school shop class could have easily fixed. Shame on HeartLand for hiding so many defects. I am still dealing with DC electrical issues in the lighting system and a short that drains the battery in a couple of days.

 

[lawser]

FYI I have a 2012 BC 3250TS that I purchased in Oct. of 2011
I went up this morning to check progress
They have taken down one panel and all of the electrical fixtures
We have come up with a good solution
They are feeding tubular aluminum down the existing duct cut out in the original foam insulation
They are also wrapping the tube with bubble type insulation on three sides and on the ends
They are putting fiberglass insulation in the duct past the last vents
They will also be taking one ceiling panel in bathroom loose where the two large gaps are and insulating these areas
Looks like they ran a plumbing roof vent out through the roof and didn’t bother to seal this area that is open into the duct, this is the spot where I could feel a cold spot from the roof side
The other gap is near the skylight
Anyplace they fed wires they just left a hole open to roof deck
Yes they used R-23 insulation (according to the spec. sheet I have) but with all the places left open to the roof, allowing the cooled air to cool the roof and hot air to penetrate in, the insulating value has been greatly reduced
Will be going back there tomarrow to check the re-insulation of the two bad spots above bathroom

 

[traveler44]

That looks like it must be a common problem. I don't think I had the same problem but mine did seem to be weak as far as blowing the cooled air out the ducts until I blocked off the ends of the ducts that went past the ceiling vents and did like so many others did like taping up the extra gaps and corners and building the tent for the main vent in the kitchen. I also taped off one side of the vents so that my vents are directional now. That works out very well because she gets cold a long time before I do. Kind of like "If you don't want it blow it on me". Tom

 

[Catchum]

i am having the same problem with my 2011 Caliber 3250KBH. it has a 15'000 btu unit on it. i want to install another roof top unit to solve this problem. does anyone have any information on how to do this or has anyone actually done this to there TT? any information would be greatly appreciated

 

[readytohitheroad]

It would seem that the fix to this is to install ductwork instead of just knocking holes in the structure?
The amount of wasted heating/cooling has to be incredible with this style of construction.

 

[mkpetersen]

This is my first post. We have had issues as well. Do you have black beads falling into your light fixtures?

 

[danemayer]

This is my first post. We have had issues as well. Do you have black beads falling into your light fixtures?

Hi mkpetersen,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum.

I'm having trouble following your post. This thread is about air conditioning. Are you asking about air conditioners causing black beads to fall into your light fixtures?