A Wet Bolt Tale

[BigGuy82]

So, I changed out my bushings from plastic to bronze, installed wet bolts and added 1/2" shackles today. Trailer's got 11-12K on it and I'm doing this during my disc brake conversion. Here's what I found:

• despite the realtively low mileage, the plastic bushings showed what I consider to be excessive wear. The EZFlex Equalizer has bronze bushings and they showed very little wear.
• One spring eye at the shackle had no bushing at all. Not a worn bushing - no bushing, which means it came out of the factory that way
• Under the head of each suspension bolt is a spline. This spline is meant to be pressure fit into the shackle and the nut on the other side is torqued to 50 ft.lb - you should be able to remove the nut without a wrench on the head of the bolt. Three of these bolts had the splines stripped, allowing the bolt to turn freely when attempting to loosen the nut. What does this mean? Well to me, it indictaes a severe over torquing situation at the factory - probably someone with an air wrench who doesn't have a clue. Certainly, these bolts were never checked for proper torque.

I got everything installed, but all of the above are indicators of poor quality control.

At least now, I've got a better suspension system and tomorrow I'll have a hugely better brake system.

 

[davebennington]

So, I changed out my bushings from plastic to bronze, installed wet bolts and added 1/2" shackles today. Trailer's got 11-12K on it and I'm doing this during my disc brake conversion. Here's what I found:

• despite the realtively low mileage, the plastic bushings showed what I consider to be excessive wear. The EZFlex Equalizer has bronze bushing and they showed very little wear.
• One spring eye at the shackle had no bushing at all. Not a worn bushing - no bushing, which means it came out of the factory that way
• Under the head of each suspension bolt is a spline. This spline is meant to be pressure fit into the shackle and the nut on the other side is troqued to 50 ft.lb - you should be able to remove the nut without a wrench on the head of the bolt. Three of these bolts had the splines stripped, allowing the bolt to turn freely when attempting to loosen the nut. What does this mean? Well to me, it indictaes a severe over torquing situation at the factory - probably someone with an air wrench who doesn't have a clue. Certainly, these nolts were never checked for proper torque.

I got everything installed, but all of the above are indicators of poor quality control.

At least now, I've got a better suspension system and tomorrow I'll have a hugely better brake system.

On our old unit we found that after 18,000 to 20,000 mile that bronze bushings needed to be replaced. I greased the bolts every 2500 miles, this surprised me. Whe we traded the unit it had 95,000 miles on it.

dave

 

[BigGuy82]

On our old unit we found that after 18,000 to 20,000 mile that bronze bushings needed to be replaced. I greased the bolts every 2500 miles, this surprised me. Whe we traded the unit it had 95,000 miles on it.

dave

Curious - how do you determine that they need replacing? Is there a test that can be done without taking the whole thing apart and inspecting?

 

[CoveredWagon]

On our old unit we found that after 18,000 to 20,000 mile that bronze bushings needed to be replaced. I greased the bolts every 2500 miles, this surprised me. Whe we traded the unit it had 95,000 miles on it.

dave

i wonder if the bolts were oriented correctly ?

 

[crussian]

So gang, is this the "wet bolt" swap out you've been talking about? If so, is it something that you can do just by taking the weight off the axle?

Thanks in advance.

C&J

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So gang, is this the "wet bolt" swap out you've been talking about? If so, is it something that you can do just by taking the weight off the axle?

Thanks in advance.

C&J

This link ---> http://tweetys.com/wet-bolt-kit-2-14-shack-tande-1.aspx?gclid=CP3R6reX6NMCFYF8fgodluMMjA

 

[wdk450]

So gang, is this the "wet bolt" swap out you've been talking about? If so, is it something that you can do just by taking the weight off the axle?

Thanks in advance.

C&J

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Here is a link to the MorRyde wet bolt kit installation instructions. Note that the zerk grease fittings on the end of the wet bolts should be protected with a socket or piece of pipe when hammering the bolts into place. Also note that the wet bolts should be oriented so that in normal suspension operation the grease hole in the wet bolt faces sideways (horizontal to the ground) to allow proper grease flow to the bushing. I would do a little thinking about how each wetbolt bears weight in its particular position and position the grease hole in the bolt away from the weight bearing surfaces so the grease can flow in when applied. Setting this grease hole position is why the wet bolts have swaging ribs near the heads, so the bolts do NOT rotate in normal use, and move the grease hole to where it is obstructed by the load weight on the bushings.
http://www.morryde.com/uploads/downloads/1447944742-Wet Bolt Kit Instructions for LRE.pdf

 

[TravelTiger]

It's not as easy as it looks. The springs/suspension move once the bolts are out, and it can take some work to get them aligned again.


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[TravelTiger]

Using a bottle jack under the u-bolt saddle of the axle to align the hole of the hanger and the spring. Note the whole side of the rig was being lifted by Ground Control, with appropriate blocking and hitched to truck for safety.


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[BigGuy82]

It's not as easy as it looks. The springs/suspension move once the bolts are out, and it can take some work to get them aligned again.


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It's not easy, ESPECIALLY with Correct Track because that little yellow puck must be centered in the hanger bracket - a tight fit. Lot of jockeying with an air over hydraulic bottle jack. I wouldn't even want to mess with a manual bottle jack - life is too short.

 

[crussian]

So gang, is this the "wet bolt" swap out you've been talking about? If so, is it something that you can do just by taking the weight off the axle?

Thanks in advance.

C&J

- - - Updated - - -


Here is a link to the MorRyde wet bolt kit installation instructions. Note that the zerk grease fittings on the end of the wet bolts should be protected with a socket or piece of pipe when hammering the bolts into place. Also note that the wet bolts should be oriented so that in normal suspension operation the grease hole in the wet bolt faces sideways (horizontal to the ground) to allow proper grease flow to the bushing. I would do a little thinking about how each wetbolt bears weight in its particular position and position the grease hole in the bolt away from the weight bearing surfaces so the grease can flow in when applied. Setting this grease hole position is why the wet bolts have swaging ribs near the heads, so the bolts do NOT rotate in normal use, and move the grease hole to where it is obstructed by the load weight on the bushings.
http://www.morryde.com/uploads/downloads/1447944742-Wet Bolt Kit Instructions for LRE.pdf

I believe that is your MODS done to the unit. No instructions found.

C&J

 

[Gary521]

Its easier to move the springs around for this process if all four tires are removed.

 

[mlpeloquin]

So gang, is this the "wet bolt" swap out you've been talking about? If so, is it something that you can do just by taking the weight off the axle?

Thanks in advance.

C&J

- - - Updated - - -


Here is a link to the MorRyde wet bolt kit installation instructions. Note that the zerk grease fittings on the end of the wet bolts should be protected with a socket or piece of pipe when hammering the bolts into place. Also note that the wet bolts should be oriented so that in normal suspension operation the grease hole in the wet bolt faces sideways (horizontal to the ground) to allow proper grease flow to the bushing. I would do a little thinking about how each wetbolt bears weight in its particular position and position the grease hole in the bolt away from the weight bearing surfaces so the grease can flow in when applied. Setting this grease hole position is why the wet bolts have swaging ribs near the heads, so the bolts do NOT rotate in normal use, and move the grease hole to where it is obstructed by the load weight on the bushings.
http://www.morryde.com/uploads/downloads/1447944742-Wet Bolt Kit Instructions for LRE.pdf

Never had had to or wanted to hammer the wet bolts in. Aligned the holes using bottle jacks and a large c-clamp. They slid right in. With Bronx sleeve bearings, I would not risk cracking them by hammering in the bolt. I also used anti seize on the bronze bearing and a large c-clamp to slowly press them in.

- - - Updated - - -

Its easier to move the springs around for this process if all four tires are removed.

Safer and correct!

 

[Aandaar]

So are these compatible with the liperts correct tract


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[davebennington]

Curious - how do you determine that they need replacing? Is there a test that can be done without taking the whole thing apart and inspecting?

I worked heavy equipment for years you learn what wears and what does not, there is no such thing as never fail. That said it all boils down to preventive maintenance sometimes you have to take things apart to see if everything is OK. I will admit the the wet bolt inspection/install is a dirty messy job.

dave

 

[BigGuy82]

Its easier to move the springs around for this process if all four tires are removed.

It's very nearly impossible to do it without removing the tires. Getting at the equalizer bolts would be very difficult.

 

[mlpeloquin]

I worked heavy equipment for years you learn what wears and what does not, there is no such thing as never fail. That said it all boils down to preventive maintenance sometimes you have to take things apart to see if everything is OK. I will admit the the wet bolt inspection/install is a dirty messy job.

dave

That ia true, but purchase new bronze inserts before doing just in case they need replacing.

 

[TravelTiger]

It's very nearly impossible to do it without removing the tires. Getting at the equalizer bolts would be very difficult.

Probably so! That's why we're letting MorRyde put the heavier shackles and wet bolts, along with new SRE 4000 suspension on at their facility in Elkhart, on our BC.

The pic I posted was work we did ourselves on our ElkRidge. If you don't have access to all the best equipment for the job, it's much more complicated and time consuming.


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[BigGuy82]

Probably so! That's why we're letting MorRyde put the heavier shackles and wet bolts, along with new SRE 4000 suspension on at their facility in Elkhart, on our BC.

The pic I posted was work we did ourselves on our ElkRidge. If you don't have access to all the best equipment for the job, it's much more complicated and time consuming.


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This is from today - I just completed the wet bolt, bronze bushing and 1/2" shackle upgrade. Disc brakes go on tomorrow.

To get to this point, I spent a full day and then some. I you are not a "mechanical person", pay someone. I probably could have done it in less than a day, but I'm retired, so who cares about time? Also, the better half insists that I use all those tools I paid lots of money for ...

 

[BigGuy82]

So are these compatible with the liperts correct tract


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Yes. You will need 3 3/4" wet bolts. Also, when you drop the axle to punch out the plastic bushings, I highly suggest that you don't drop the spring all the way out of the hanger. I suspect getting it back in there would be a chore.

 

[Todster]

This is from today - I just completed the wet bolt, bronze bushing and 1/2" shackle upgrade. Disc brakes go on tomorrow.

To get to this point, I spent a full day and then some. I you are not a "mechanical person", pay someone. I probably could have done it in less than a day, but I'm retired, so who cares about time? Also, the better half insists that I use all those tools I paid lots of money for ...

View attachment 51701

Big guy. Are you using just the levelers to hold the trailer when doing this? Thinking of doing the same is why I ask.


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