westxsrt10
Perfict Senior Member
Our Sundance unit requires the forced air heating be used to keep the storage tanks and piping from freezing. The forced air heating ducts actually keep the underbelly from freezing.
So, when you are paying for electricity at your spot, why wouldn't you heat your RV with an electric heater, and not use up all of your propane? This sounds great, however if it is freezing outside, the underbelly does not get heated that way. Using the propane would use up your supply in very cold weather pretty rapidly. However I have installed a switch that circulates the air throughout the RV with the forced air heating fan, (as in using the regular heater,) however, without using the propane. The air is heated by the electric heater inside the unit. The heat from the electric floor heater is circulated throughout the RV as well as into the underbelly and forced air unit.
I used a Double Pole, Double Throw Switch rated at 20 amp @ 125v. (On/Off/On)
Part # 31504 @ Ace Hardware, and 12' for 12 ga. wire. This type of switch isolates the factory system 100% when using the electric/ fan mode.
So, when you are paying for electricity at your spot, why wouldn't you heat your RV with an electric heater, and not use up all of your propane? This sounds great, however if it is freezing outside, the underbelly does not get heated that way. Using the propane would use up your supply in very cold weather pretty rapidly. However I have installed a switch that circulates the air throughout the RV with the forced air heating fan, (as in using the regular heater,) however, without using the propane. The air is heated by the electric heater inside the unit. The heat from the electric floor heater is circulated throughout the RV as well as into the underbelly and forced air unit.
I used a Double Pole, Double Throw Switch rated at 20 amp @ 125v. (On/Off/On)
Part # 31504 @ Ace Hardware, and 12' for 12 ga. wire. This type of switch isolates the factory system 100% when using the electric/ fan mode.
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