Where is the link?
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I can't see any recreational trailer having enough brakes and tires to stop that sudden and bend the hitch. And from a dead pull the Tier 2-3-4 diesels just are not going to make the power (stock at least).
Since we are all speculating - i'm going to speculate a solid object was involved, perhaps a bridge.
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Much more believable number.
"perhaps a bridge" I bridge is not a tug, it is a crash! Chris
I have long said that Andersen vertical compression testing does not account for what will happen if the truck impacts something and comes to a quick stop
When I was trying to figure out why my steel version would sometimes “pop” when pulling out of the softer soil where I stowed it I rode on the side step to watch and was surprised by how much bed deflection I would get with my Ram. If he was at a slight angle, the bulk of the load would be on a single aft tube with the front or the hitch frame possibly no longer even being in contact with the truck bed.
I rode on the side step to watch and was surprised by how much bed deflection I would get with my Ram
Mine was the steel version of the ball mount. The hitch was torqued with weight of the trailer on the hitch as per the later Andersen instructions. The instructions that came with the hitch only had you torquing when initially installing the hitch, not with the trailer weight on the hitch. Movement was around an 8th inch, all at once where it would slip on the spray in bed liner slightly. This would happen when I tried to back in or pull out of an area where the trailer would sink into the sandy soil approximately 2 to 3 inches and require a fair bit of power, although not enough to need 4 wheel drive or spin tires. You would only get 1 pop either direction of travel. Andersens recommended correction for this issue is a rubber bed matt. It doesn't change the bed flexing issue however. Do a brake pull test on your truck and you might be surprised how much movement or the truck bed there is. My truck, 2015 Ram 3500
I would guess the 'movement' could be eliminated if there was a version that utilized the factory prep under bed mounts with or with out the gooseneck ball being utilized.
Mine was the steel version of the ball mount. The hitch was torqued with weight of the trailer on the hitch as per the later Andersen instructions. The instructions that came with the hitch only had you torquing when initially installing the hitch, not with the trailer weight on the hitch. Movement was around an 8th inch, all at once where it would slip on the spray in bed liner slightly. This would happen when I tried to back in or pull out of an area where the trailer would sink into the sandy soil approximately 2 to 3 inches and require a fair bit of power, although not enough to need 4 wheel drive or spin tires. You would only get 1 pop either direction of travel. Andersens recommended correction for this issue is a rubber bed matt. It doesn't change the bed flexing issue however. Do a brake pull test on your truck and you might be surprised how much movement or the truck bed there is. My truck, 2015 Ram 3500
Andersen has a rail mount version that fits standard rails. One could get a picture frame that attaches via the puck system then pin the Andersen to the picture frame. You would then be carrying to load on the frame rails vs the bed floor. Chris
That is exactly what I have, an early model (mid 2014) steel "rail mount" that is now mounted on a Reese "picture frame" in my Ford puck system. I have removed it from the truck about three times over the last year and a half, and have noticed no problems to the spray on bed liner or the bed of the truck. Of course, the hitch itself does not come in contact with the bed. Am very pleased with my Andersen.
PS: I am towing a Landmark, about 16,200 lbs.
That is exactly what I have, an early model (mid 2014) steel "rail mount" that is now mounted on a Reese "picture frame" in my Ford puck system. I have removed it from the truck about three times over the last year and a half, and have noticed no problems to the spray on bed liner or the bed of the truck. Of course, the hitch itself does not come in contact with the bed. Am very pleased with my Andersen.
PS: I am towing a Landmark, about 16,200 lbs.
Do you still torque down on a gooseneck ball if using the rail mount?
George,
No, the only goose-neck ball in my truck is on top of the Andersen hitch. The "picture frame rail mount" has four feet that drop down into the four pucks in the truck bed. There is nothing in the hole where a goose ball would go. There are four tabs on the bottom of the Andersen hitch that stick down into slots on top of the Picture frame that are held into place with bolts and cotter pins. I don't have a picture of my hitch in the truck, but below is a link to a picture of a hitch like mine that is used with rails, either the Reese "picture frame" attachment or a "standard" pair rails like one would use in a truck without the "puck system".
When I purchased my hitch, I owned a 2007 Chev and towed with a Reese 16K slider hitch that attached to a pair of rails that were attached to the truck bed. Because I was going to use the same truck and rails, I purchased the Andersen hitch like in the link below that is made for rails. But when I purchased my 2015 F350, it had the "puck system" in it and since I already had the hitch, I just purchased the Reese Picture frame attachment. I am sure I have made this as clear as mud.
[FONT="]https://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/andersen-manufacturing-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version-3200[/FONT]
That's what I thought. Also, it appears that Reese sells the same system for Ram's OEM puck systems as well. We own a 2014 Chevy and use the standard rail system with our Andersen. Can't ever see going back to the standard fifth wheel hitch.That is it exactly, only instead of putting a Reese hitch down on it, I use an Andersen rail mount hitch and it installs just like the hitch in the video, only the Andersen is a lot lighter. I think the rail box weighs more than the Andersen hitch, have never weighed them, but even at my age can easily (but not hooked together) get them out of the truck by myself. I did not know about the wrench or the need to tighten the nuts in the rail box, think I will get one just to be on the safe side.