Anderson Ultimate Fifth Wheel Hitch

[SNOKING]

"perhaps a bridge" I bridge is not a tug, it is a crash! Chris

 

[Bones]

Where is the link?

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I can't see any recreational trailer having enough brakes and tires to stop that sudden and bend the hitch. And from a dead pull the Tier 2-3-4 diesels just are not going to make the power (stock at least).

Since we are all speculating - i'm going to speculate a solid object was involved, perhaps a bridge.

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Much more believable number.

"perhaps a bridge" I bridge is not a tug, it is a crash! Chris

If they hit a bridge which was the tug then that would make a whole lot more sense than all of a sudden my hitch failed in the pull configuration..

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I have long said that Andersen vertical compression testing does not account for what will happen if the truck impacts something and comes to a quick stop

Chris,
I have wondered the same thing that the test they show is good for loading and static loads but has little to do with the dynamics of towing. They would have to do pull and tug test to failure to see how much force is required to bend the hitch like that. that should be a fairly simple test to perform. I bet it has been done and it is not as spectacular as the compression test.

 

[Searching_Ut]

Actually The hitch failed the way you would expect with a hard pull or heavy braking. When I was trying to figure out why my steel version would sometimes “pop” when pulling out of the softer soil where I stowed it I rode on the side step to watch and was surprised by how much bed deflection I would get with my Ram. If he was at a slight angle, the bulk of the load would be on a single aft tube with the front or the hitch frame possibly no longer even being in contact with the truck bed.

As for trusting Andersen, when the pin adapter bent the baseplate of my Bighorn being all the weight is carried on just two of the set screws they initially said they had never heard about anything like that. After a bit of back and forth they finally admitted it happens sometimes because some pin boxes aren’t strong enough and they sent me a spacer plate to put under the adapter and basically said it’s not a hitch problem.

 

[porthole]

When I was trying to figure out why my steel version would sometimes “pop” when pulling out of the softer soil where I stowed it I rode on the side step to watch and was surprised by how much bed deflection I would get with my Ram. If he was at a slight angle, the bulk of the load would be on a single aft tube with the front or the hitch frame possibly no longer even being in contact with the truck bed.

I take it you have the ball mount and not the rail mount ?

 

[Lynn1130]

I rode on the side step to watch and was surprised by how much bed deflection I would get with my Ram

Something is wrong with that set up because mine is on rails and I get no popping or noise of any kind from it. It is much quieter than any standard hitch I have had.

 

[Doublegranch]

If your hitch is moving you may need to double check you have torqued all three bolts correctly...otherwise I don't see how your one side could lift up! It fits
securely over your bed ball and if torqued, can't move.

 

[Searching_Ut]

Mine was the steel version of the ball mount. The hitch was torqued with weight of the trailer on the hitch as per the later Andersen instructions. The instructions that came with the hitch only had you torquing when initially installing the hitch, not with the trailer weight on the hitch. Movement was around an 8th inch, all at once where it would slip on the spray in bed liner slightly. This would happen when I tried to back in or pull out of an area where the trailer would sink into the sandy soil approximately 2 to 3 inches and require a fair bit of power, although not enough to need 4 wheel drive or spin tires. You would only get 1 pop either direction of travel. Andersens recommended correction for this issue is a rubber bed matt. It doesn't change the bed flexing issue however. Do a brake pull test on your truck and you might be surprised how much movement or the truck bed there is. My truck, 2015 Ram 3500

 

[Mark-Roberta 051995]

Mine was the steel version of the ball mount. The hitch was torqued with weight of the trailer on the hitch as per the later Andersen instructions. The instructions that came with the hitch only had you torquing when initially installing the hitch, not with the trailer weight on the hitch. Movement was around an 8th inch, all at once where it would slip on the spray in bed liner slightly. This would happen when I tried to back in or pull out of an area where the trailer would sink into the sandy soil approximately 2 to 3 inches and require a fair bit of power, although not enough to need 4 wheel drive or spin tires. You would only get 1 pop either direction of travel. Andersens recommended correction for this issue is a rubber bed matt. It doesn't change the bed flexing issue however. Do a brake pull test on your truck and you might be surprised how much movement or the truck bed there is. My truck, 2015 Ram 3500

That is some great information as I have the exact setup as you, including the same truck and spray in bedliner. When I install my hitch I line it it up to be square to the bed, I then torque the top bolt to the specified requirement and then the 2 bolts in the front of the sleeve prior to hooking up the 5th wheel. I have never retorqued the bolts after the trailer was hooked. I have never heard the popping that you talk about but I have never listened for it as I hear "other" creeks and noise that I thought was from the camper being moved. I may have to listen better so I can understand if there is something going on. I review my hitch every time I tow and I also review the bed of my truck in the area where the platform sits on. I have never seen any type of deformation on the bed of my truck where it would indicate a lifting of the plate and pushed down with force. I also tow with the ball in the upmost position due to bed rail height and levelness of the trailer. I will try to do a brake test on the truck to see if I see any movement. This will have to wait for my warranty work to get completed so I will report back then (probably 2months).

 

[porthole]

I would guess the 'movement' could be eliminated if there was a version that utilized the factory prep under bed mounts with or with out the gooseneck ball being utilized.

 

[Bones]

I would guess the 'movement' could be eliminated if there was a version that utilized the factory prep under bed mounts with or with out the gooseneck ball being utilized.

Now that there would be a great thing.

 

[CoveredWagon]

Mine was the steel version of the ball mount. The hitch was torqued with weight of the trailer on the hitch as per the later Andersen instructions. The instructions that came with the hitch only had you torquing when initially installing the hitch, not with the trailer weight on the hitch. Movement was around an 8th inch, all at once where it would slip on the spray in bed liner slightly. This would happen when I tried to back in or pull out of an area where the trailer would sink into the sandy soil approximately 2 to 3 inches and require a fair bit of power, although not enough to need 4 wheel drive or spin tires. You would only get 1 pop either direction of travel. Andersens recommended correction for this issue is a rubber bed matt. It doesn't change the bed flexing issue however. Do a brake pull test on your truck and you might be surprised how much movement or the truck bed there is. My truck, 2015 Ram 3500

I don’t have the installation instructions here right now, but didn’t I read that you should not use a bed liner.
Also as a side I just removed mine from the truck after 3000 miles of towing. I have the factory spray-in liner and it showed absolutely no signs of movement or deformation of the truck bed.

 

[SNOKING]

Andersen has a rail mount version that fits standard rails. One could get a picture frame that attaches via the puck system then pin the Andersen to the picture frame. You would then be carrying to load on the frame rails vs the bed floor. Chris

 

[Chippendale]

Andersen has a rail mount version that fits standard rails. One could get a picture frame that attaches via the puck system then pin the Andersen to the picture frame. You would then be carrying to load on the frame rails vs the bed floor. Chris

That is exactly what I have, an early model (mid 2014) steel "rail mount" that is now mounted on a Reese "picture frame" in my Ford puck system. I have removed it from the truck about three times over the last year and a half, and have noticed no problems to the spray on bed liner or the bed of the truck. Of course, the hitch itself does not come in contact with the bed. Am very pleased with my Andersen.

PS: I am towing a Landmark, about 16,200 lbs.

 

[AFMagnum]

That is exactly what I have, an early model (mid 2014) steel "rail mount" that is now mounted on a Reese "picture frame" in my Ford puck system. I have removed it from the truck about three times over the last year and a half, and have noticed no problems to the spray on bed liner or the bed of the truck. Of course, the hitch itself does not come in contact with the bed. Am very pleased with my Andersen.

PS: I am towing a Landmark, about 16,200 lbs.

This is exactly the setup I’m interested in. Any feedback on how it’s worked out for you? Any pics?

 

[porthole]

That is exactly what I have, an early model (mid 2014) steel "rail mount" that is now mounted on a Reese "picture frame" in my Ford puck system. I have removed it from the truck about three times over the last year and a half, and have noticed no problems to the spray on bed liner or the bed of the truck. Of course, the hitch itself does not come in contact with the bed. Am very pleased with my Andersen.

PS: I am towing a Landmark, about 16,200 lbs.

Do you still torque down on a gooseneck ball if using the rail mount?

 

[Chippendale]

Do you still torque down on a gooseneck ball if using the rail mount?

No, the only goose-neck ball in my truck is on top of the Andersen hitch. The "picture frame rail mount" has four feet that drop down into the four pucks in the truck bed. There is nothing in the hole where a goose ball would go. There are four tabs on the bottom of the Andersen hitch that stick down into slots on top of the Picture frame that are held into place with bolts and cotter pins. I don't have a picture of my hitch in the truck, but below is a link to a picture of a hitch like mine that is used with rails, either the Reese "picture frame" attachment or a "standard" pair rails like one would use in a truck without the "puck system".

When I purchased my hitch, I owned a 2007 Chev and towed with a Reese 16K slider hitch that attached to a pair of rails that were attached to the truck bed. Because I was going to use the same truck and rails, I purchased the Andersen hitch like in the link below that is made for rails. But when I purchased my 2015 F350, it had the "puck system" in it and since I already had the hitch, I just purchased the Reese Picture frame attachment. I am sure I have made this as clear as mud.

[FONT=&quot]https://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/andersen-manufacturing-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version-3200[/FONT]

 

[Az_Ernie]

No, the only goose-neck ball in my truck is on top of the Andersen hitch. The "picture frame rail mount" has four feet that drop down into the four pucks in the truck bed. There is nothing in the hole where a goose ball would go. There are four tabs on the bottom of the Andersen hitch that stick down into slots on top of the Picture frame that are held into place with bolts and cotter pins. I don't have a picture of my hitch in the truck, but below is a link to a picture of a hitch like mine that is used with rails, either the Reese "picture frame" attachment or a "standard" pair rails like one would use in a truck without the "puck system".

When I purchased my hitch, I owned a 2007 Chev and towed with a Reese 16K slider hitch that attached to a pair of rails that were attached to the truck bed. Because I was going to use the same truck and rails, I purchased the Andersen hitch like in the link below that is made for rails. But when I purchased my 2015 F350, it had the "puck system" in it and since I already had the hitch, I just purchased the Reese Picture frame attachment. I am sure I have made this as clear as mud.

[FONT=&quot]https://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/andersen-manufacturing-ultimate-5th-wheel-connection-rail-version-3200[/FONT]

George,

Is this the Reese system you're using to mount your Andersen?

 

[Chippendale]

George,

Is this the Reese system you're using to mount your Andersen?

That is it exactly, only instead of putting a Reese hitch down on it, I use an Andersen rail mount hitch and it installs just like the hitch in the video, only the Andersen is a lot lighter. I think the rail box weighs more than the Andersen hitch, have never weighed them, but even at my age can easily (but not hooked together) get them out of the truck by myself. I did not know about the wrench or the need to tighten the nuts in the rail box, think I will get one just to be on the safe side.

 

[Az_Ernie]

That is it exactly, only instead of putting a Reese hitch down on it, I use an Andersen rail mount hitch and it installs just like the hitch in the video, only the Andersen is a lot lighter. I think the rail box weighs more than the Andersen hitch, have never weighed them, but even at my age can easily (but not hooked together) get them out of the truck by myself. I did not know about the wrench or the need to tighten the nuts in the rail box, think I will get one just to be on the safe side.

That's what I thought. Also, it appears that Reese sells the same system for Ram's OEM puck systems as well. We own a 2014 Chevy and use the standard rail system with our Andersen. Can't ever see going back to the standard fifth wheel hitch.

 

[JWalker]

Made a stop at the local Lowes today and picked up an impulse purchase and needed the bed for hauling.