Anode Rod
- Thread starter wingfoot
- Start date
goldenbetty
goldenbetty
Well, the anode rod was about 75% deteriorated. Also, rather rusted in place, but we got it out, along with a lot of sediment. I will be flushing it out, but what can we do to clean the orifice of debris and sediment?
I used a Wet/Dry vac with a tube on the end of the hose that would fit through the anode rod opening to vacuum the sediment out of the tank. It plugged the tube up a couple times but it worked to get most of the sediment out.
danemayer
Well-known member
You can find a flush tool at many RV dealer parts departments, or on Amazon.com.
porthole
Retired
How big is your toolbox?
Two items I use:
Battery terminal wire brush. This is a circular wire brush for cleaning out the inside of the battery cable terminal.
NPT Tap = National Pipe Thread tap. These are not the cheap way out, I just happen to have one for our boat.
There are plenty of wire brush tools that you should be able to find, Sears would be a good start.
The brush will do an "OK job, bu tif you have a lot of rust you may need the tap.
Camping world has a small angled wand that you hook up to your hose to flush the inside. This is something you could make if you are handy.
An alternative is to just turn on your water supply with the anode out.
Two items I use:
Battery terminal wire brush. This is a circular wire brush for cleaning out the inside of the battery cable terminal.
NPT Tap = National Pipe Thread tap. These are not the cheap way out, I just happen to have one for our boat.
There are plenty of wire brush tools that you should be able to find, Sears would be a good start.
The brush will do an "OK job, bu tif you have a lot of rust you may need the tap.
Camping world has a small angled wand that you hook up to your hose to flush the inside. This is something you could make if you are handy.
An alternative is to just turn on your water supply with the anode out.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Or use air pressure when winterizing. Remove the anode rod and pressurize the plumbing BEFORE closing the bypass to the water heater. Water comes out in a jet. Fortunately, when I learned this trick, I was not standing directly in front of the water heater
goldenbetty
goldenbetty
Thanks to eveyone for their input. Cleanup and install after the freezing temps retreat from the deep South. Will have to check pressure relief valve for any further leaks too. Appreciate ya'lls help.
Referencing the installation of the anode rode into the HWH, I use a sealant on the anode pipe threads that we use on the ship for various projects. The product is called Never-seez, anti-seez lubricating pipe compound. The product is from the Bostik Corp. and eliminates issues of rusted, corroded or galled threads in getting the anode rod out on an annual basis. We use this stuff like religion around salt water applications to ensure disassembly of equipment. My anode rod on the RV spins out easily when having used the Never-seez for installation. Its suitable for hi-temps beyond the temps seen in the HWH.
And, referencing whether to install a new anode rod; a new rod is pretty cheap insurance. The corrosion and electrolysis in your water system is going to eat something. If the anode rod is present, it will eat away the rod before your HWH and related plumbing. I drain my HWH several times a year, or after parking the RV while in storage, to clear the loose sediment and calcium, and then flush the tank out with a small water-jet tubing about a foot long inserted in the anode opening, plus installing a new anode rod once a year. If it should show excessive year in less than a year, just replace it when eaten down.
And, referencing whether to install a new anode rod; a new rod is pretty cheap insurance. The corrosion and electrolysis in your water system is going to eat something. If the anode rod is present, it will eat away the rod before your HWH and related plumbing. I drain my HWH several times a year, or after parking the RV while in storage, to clear the loose sediment and calcium, and then flush the tank out with a small water-jet tubing about a foot long inserted in the anode opening, plus installing a new anode rod once a year. If it should show excessive year in less than a year, just replace it when eaten down.
You might have a point there. Something worth researching further to see what is recommended as a sealant.
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wdk450
Well-known member
You should be able to check this out with an ohmmeter/continuity meter from the anode cap to a good ground. I bet most teflon tape or chemical thread treatments will still allow enough metal-to-metal thread contact let the anode rod do its work.
