Another Suburban Water Heater Issue

dlw930

Well-known member
For the past 2 months we haven't been able to get hot water using only the 120V mode. It functions fine in the 12V propane mode. When we had an impromptu "Water Heater Maintenance Day" after the North Texas Chapter Rally, I got motivated to delve into my problem.

Step 1 was to turn off all switches and the circuit breaker.

Step 2 was to empty the water heater and to clean the sediment out of the tank.

Step 3 was to remove the 120V heating element. Upon inspection, the element was pitted in a couple of places, probably because power to the element had been turned on with an empty tank. A new replacement element was installed, but when power was restored, the element stool didn't heat water.

Step 4 was to check for voltage across the heating element terminals. Nada.

Step 5 was to check the reset switches. After removing the cover, I saw the following:
155016b96f79f62ca63ab69683516223.jpg


The 12v hi-limit thermostat is on the right and the 120v hi-limit thermostat is on the left. The thermostats have a fuse wire, and I now know why I don't have 120v water heat. My question is, did the failure of the heating element cause an overcurrent situation the thermostat?


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danemayer

Well-known member
The thermostats have a fuse wire, and I now know why I don't have 120v water heat. My question is, did the failure of the heating element cause an overcurrent situation the thermostat?

That would be my thought.
 

JanAndBill

Well-known member
I'd say you were correct. When we turned ours on without water in the tank it literally melted a hole in the element which cut the power. I suspect that if it hadn't done that the fuseable link would have been the fall back.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
You can buy fuseable link at any parts store. Just make sure you get the correct amperage. Use good heat shrink type "butt connectors".
 
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