JonathanMangual
Member
I have a Cyclone 4005 and it is supposed to be in the upper 20’s this week. How low can I let the temps get before I should winterize. Thank you for your advice
Jonathan
Jonathan
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At what temperature should you winterize your Cyclone?
- Thread starter JonathanMangual
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Jonathan,
A lot depends on whether you're running the furnace, and on what thermostat setting. Also whether you have tank heating pads, included in the YETI option.
Keep in mind that weather reports are usually predicting temperatures at an airport or city location. Your temperatures could be quite different. So 20 (F) at the weather station could be 15 (F) at your location.
If you have the thermostat at 72 (F), you'll probably be ok into the mid 20's.
If you have a refrigerator in a slide, and it has a water/ice maker feed line, that water line is exposed to outside air under the slide and must be winterized any time temps go below freezing.
For more information, consult our Winterization User Guide, and for a residential refrigerator, consult our Residential Refrigerator guide. They're both in this folder.
A lot depends on whether you're running the furnace, and on what thermostat setting. Also whether you have tank heating pads, included in the YETI option.
Keep in mind that weather reports are usually predicting temperatures at an airport or city location. Your temperatures could be quite different. So 20 (F) at the weather station could be 15 (F) at your location.
If you have the thermostat at 72 (F), you'll probably be ok into the mid 20's.
If you have a refrigerator in a slide, and it has a water/ice maker feed line, that water line is exposed to outside air under the slide and must be winterized any time temps go below freezing.
For more information, consult our Winterization User Guide, and for a residential refrigerator, consult our Residential Refrigerator guide. They're both in this folder.
JonathanMangual
Member
I appreciate the responses...thank you. I was asking because I keep it parked at the lake and am out of town a lot AND sometimes the weather changes so quickly in ATL that I am not able to get back in order to winterize it. With that being said I also use the RV a couple times a month throughout the winter and am trying to gauge when I truly need to winterize it so I am not winterizing and dewinterizing 2 to 3 times a month unless I have to. Thanks again for all of the input
-Jonathan
-Jonathan
If you are only using it intermittently in below freezing temps, why not leave it winterized with anti-freeze and just bring water with you for consumption? You won't be able to use the on board facilities like shower etc., but you won't have to go thru the repeated winterization/flush cycles when you leave and return.
danemayer
Well-known member
Given the relatively mild weather, I'd suggest using compressed air to winterize when you leave. Pour 1/4 cup of antifreeze in each drain to protect the p-traps. Don't forget the outside shower and washer prep.
For the ice maker, shut off the water line for the winter and evacuate the water from the poly tubing using compressed air.
For the ice maker, shut off the water line for the winter and evacuate the water from the poly tubing using compressed air.
dave10a
Well-known member
My gas electric absorbtion frig comes with heat tape on the ice maker line to mitigate freezing. Why doesn't Heartland apply heat tape to residential frigs so the conumer will not be inconvienced in cold climates. Seems like a relatively inexpensive way to go that would demonstrate customer concern.
danemayer
Well-known member
Dave,
If you have a Dometic RM1350, the water feed solenoid on the back of the fridge, and a bit of the feed line from solenoid into the fridge, are electrically heated. It's part of the RM1350 build. But I doubt very much that the poly line to the solenoid is heated, unless done after purchase.
Our 2011 Landmark has the poly line teed into the PEX behind the UDC. From there is goes down and emerges from the frame and is routed under the slide and up into the back of the fridge. Your 2012 is probably the same. If you locate your water feed line, you could tell us if it's insulated or heated. Maybe post a picture.
As for Heartland adding heat tape, and a more expensive water feed line that will support heat tape, who knows. But I think if they did, we might end up with just as many posts asking why the trailer battery is dead.
dave10a
Well-known member
I am talking about when the trailer is not in storage and I am living it. My ice maker water line has not frozen in weather in the 20's and the battery will never go dead when I am living in it when charged by solar or shore power. Again Heartland should either do something to protect the ice make line or issue a notice/warning if they continue to ignore this issue for profit. It is not in the customers best interest the way it is now and I do not understand why you support Heartland on this matter. This is a known problem that should have been addressed some time ago.....
danemayer
Well-known member
If you're living in your trailer when temps get into the 20s, you know eventually your water feed line to the refrigerator is going to freeze. Before it breaks and leaks all over the place, you should take your own advice and install heat tape on that water line.
dave10a
Well-known member
Oh great, Heartland advertises that their trailers are "full time rated" and have a "yeti option" but you can't use your ice maker in cold weather because they refuse to heat tape the ice maker lines. What a joke and it is on us the consumer.
