ATF: Big Country - Suggestions for the walkthrough

[dkbenner]

Hi

This is the first time for me to post on this forum and I am not sure if I am posting this in the right area. My wife and I have taken our time in selecting a new RV. We have had a 24' toy hauler that we purchased in 2008 from a friend. This had introduced us to the RV experience. We have learned a lot since then and now know some of the important amenities we want in a RV. After extensive research and reading these forums we decided to go with Heartland. We sold our toy hauler 2 weeks age and finally pulled the trigger and bought a 2014 Big Country 3596RE. We will be picking her up on Friday.

My question is: This is our first time buying a new RV and we would like to know of any tips on how to go about our walk through? What to ask, check, and so forth.

Thank you
David & Kim

 

[JohnDar]

Hi

This is the first time for me to post on this forum and I am not sure if I am posting this in the right area. My wife and I have taken our time in selecting a new RV. We have had a 24' toy hauler that we purchased in 2008 from a friend. This had introduced us to the RV experience. We have learned a lot since then and now know some of the important amenities we want in a RV. After extensive research and reading these forums we decided to go with Heartland. We sold our toy hauler 2 weeks age and finally pulled the trigger and bought a 2014 Big Country 3596RE. We will be picking her up on Friday.

My question is: This is our first time buying a new RV and we would like to know of any tips on how to go about our walk through? What to ask, check, and so forth.

Thank you
David & Kim

The short version is to have a service tech at the dealer walk you through all systems, show you how and then you do it. You'll want it hooked to both power and water so you can test the systems. Even open the dump valves (it will only be water). Ask to have a basement wall panel removed so you can inspect back there. Anything you find that isn't right, have it documented and fixed before you leave, if possible. If it requires parts or delay, set an appointment to get it done and make sure the dealer orders the parts before you leave.

I've attached a copy of the PDI checklist. It's long, but look it through and even take it with you. Some advocate taking a video camera along to record everything.

 

[BigJim45]

Here is a link to another PDI list. Also a good to do is video your PDI while your doing it.

http://www.rvlifestyle.net/id20.html

Good luck and happy camping

 

[Bob&Patty]

Do not let the dealer rush you through the PDI. If it takes 4 hours....so be it. There is no charge for a PDI to you......so beware. HL pays for it ...not you. Just saying...some dealers have tried to charge for it. Try everything, heater, A/C, all the water fausets, check for any leaks under the sinks at the "P" traps and water lines, and the lites. Do not leave until you understand how everything works. I would insist on the PDI BEFORE you sign the final papers just in case their is a large issue with something. Then you have leverage to make them fix it before you sign the papers. BTW, DO NOT spend any money on a "sealant package" or any extended warranty now. You can shop around for a warranty after your 1 year warranty is up.

If you bought this BC off the lot....then it will most likely have "towmax" tires on it. Contact your dealer and have them get you a price on Goodyear G614"s. Should be about $13-400 for set of 4. Also ask them to give you something for the towmax tires or you keep them and sell them on Ebay or Craigs list for a couple hunderd bucks. The money spent now is better than $3k damage to the coach and also having to buy new tires. JMHO

 

[Bob&Patty]

BTW, just being nosey....but you did not mention what your TV is. Anyway, congrads on your new Big Country.

 

[dkbenner]

The short version is to have a service tech at the dealer walk you through all systems, show you how and then you do it. You'll want it hooked to both power and water so you can test the systems. Even open the dump valves (it will only be water). Ask to have a basement wall panel removed so you can inspect back there. Anything you find that isn't right, have it documented and fixed before you leave, if possible. If it requires parts or delay, set an appointment to get it done and make sure the dealer orders the parts before you leave.

I've attached a copy of the PDI checklist. It's long, but look it through and even take it with you. Some advocate taking a video camera along to record everything.

Hi Everyone

Thank you for your replies. I printed the PDI check list. Two of you have the same one which is very useful thank you. I will also check on the tires. I have read that the good year tires are the tires of choice. We will certainly take our time and have our questions ready. Thank you for all of your advice. We also reserved a campsite 10 miles from the house to put the trailer through its paces this weekend. The dealer we purchased from is La Mesa RV in Phoenix and they have been very helpful and friendly. We feel confident that this experience will be a good one.

David & Kim

2014 Big Country 3596RE
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Duramax Crew Cab

 

[dkbenner]

Do not let the dealer rush you through the PDI. If it takes 4 hours....so be it. There is no charge for a PDI to you......so beware. HL pays for it ...not you. Just saying...some dealers have tried to charge for it. Try everything, heater, A/C, all the water fausets, check for any leaks under the sinks at the "P" traps and water lines, and the lites. Do not leave until you understand how everything works. I would insist on the PDI BEFORE you sign the final papers just in case their is a large issue with something. Then you have leverage to make them fix it before you sign the papers. BTW, DO NOT spend any money on a "sealant package" or any extended warranty now. You can shop around for a warranty after your 1 year warranty is up.

If you bought this BC off the lot....then it will most likely have "towmax" tires on it. Contact your dealer and have them get you a price on Goodyear G614"s. Should be about $13-400 for set of 4. Also ask them to give you something for the towmax tires or you keep them and sell them on Ebay or Craigs list for a couple hunderd bucks. The money spent now is better than $3k damage to the coach and also having to buy new tires. JMHO

Thank you for your reply. We did not opt for the sealant package. We choose to accept none of the extended warranties. The prices on these packages are awfully high in cost to the point that the risk versus reward was too much. Do you have any experience with having an extended warranty? Is it really necessary? If yes what would you recommend. My wife and I are part time RV-ers as we still working full time.

Thank you
David
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD Duramax
2014 Big Country 3596RE

 

[Cjackg]

On my last RV purchase (a Forest River TT) I declined to buy the dealers Extended Warranty policy but I did buy Extended multi-year coverage from DOMETIC on several of the major appliances including the Refrig and the A/C. This approach worked well as the cost was reasonable and did give us mfg coverage on the more costly equipment.

 

[Bob&Patty]

David, as far as extended warranties....look at Good Sam. Also look at their road assistance package. Remember there are things in the coach that have longer warranties than 1 year. So read all the paper work that comes in the packet. If you have any questions at anytime...you can ask here, or call HL service...have your VIN# handy, and they will answer any questions you have.

Your TV you have will do the job. It should be rated a 17200# for a 5er, but a 2500 will be at its "legal" limits. Your pin weight might be the issue. I would also suggest installing air bags for ride and keeping the rig level. BTW, does your BC have a Mor/ryde pinbox?? If not, you might look into one to stop the chucking when driving. Best $600 you will ever spend. Tweeties in Texas normally has the best price and its free shipping.

 

[dkbenner]

David, as far as extended warranties....look at Good Sam. Also look at their road assistance package. Remember there are things in the coach that have longer warranties than 1 year. So read all the paper work that comes in the packet. If you have any questions at anytime...you can ask here, or call HL service...have your VIN# handy, and they will answer any questions you have.

Your TV you have will do the job. It should be rated a 17200# for a 5er, but a 2500 will be at its "legal" limits. Your pin weight might be the issue. I would also suggest installing air bags for ride and keeping the rig level. BTW, does your BC have a Mor/ryde pinbox?? If not, you might look into one to stop the chucking when driving. Best $600 you will ever spend. Tweeties in Texas normally has the best price and its free shipping.

Hi Bob

I did check my tow ratings and my truck is rated at 16,700 pounds with a hitch capacity of 2500 pounds. The 5th weighs in at 15,500 max load with a dry hitch at 2,190 pounds. I wish it had the Mor/ryde but I do plan on changing. I Assume I can install without much trouble. This is my first 5th wheel (a lot to learn).
We are members of Good Sam and I have seen many of their mailers and I do mean a lot of mailers. Hate to have their postage bill. I will check into their warranty options. I also saw another post from Cjackg regarding extended warranties from Dometic that is reasonable for their products. Looks like I have a lot of homework to do.

Thank you for all of your help. Very much appreciated.

David & Kim

 

[dkbenner]

Thank you I will check in to Dometic warranties for their products

 

[Bob&Patty]

David, the pinbox you can do yourself. I did mine by myself. They are heavy, so 2 people would be better. If and when you order it....make sure that you tell them the GWR of your BC. I think that you need the #5 cushion or what ever Mor/Ryde calls it. I got smart on mine...I had the UPS dude help me get it into bed of my truck. From the ground to the frame is a loooong way at #150. No one wants your old one ( great boat anchor)....leave it the truck and go sell it for scrap. BTW, I think the torque on the bolts are 130 or maybe 150 ft lbs....CRS sets in now and then.