ATF: Bighorn - Insulation

[StrongJava]

I'm looking into projects to make the coach (2008 Bighorn 3670RL) more comfortable. What insulation was installed in the ceiling?

What are the R-factors of the walls?

What insulation (if any) was installed in the front nose cone area?

Do you have any guides for increasing the insulation?

Thanks!

 

[danemayer]

Hi StrongJava,

I've never seen the factory jump in to help with modifications, so I would expect any responses to come from other owners.

I'd be surprised if there was any practical way to increase roof or sidewall insulation.

The front cap may have some, but some people have found that the factory insulation sometimes falls out of place. To work on it, you may have to disassemble parts of the front closet.

I've installed insulation in the underbelly. I used 4x8' sheets of foam board insulation with attic batting taped to one side. The foam board is cut to length so it just fits inside the frame. With the coroplast out of the way, push one end of the board against the frame on one side and flex the board to get the other end inserted. The frame holds it in place.

Depending on your tank arrangement, the foamboard approach may not work the full length of the coach - depends on clearances.

You might want to look into radiant heat barrier as well. Heartland uses that on a number of models these days.

 

[StrongJava]

Thanks, Dan. I did try to focus my questions to the factory (except the last one ) to cover what they installed. We'll see.

I've taken off some of my vent covers in the ceiling and I'm trying to figure out where the insulation is located. I have attached a picture of what I've noticed at one of the vents in the living area. There is some insulation there, but there appears to be room for quite a bit more. I'm not sure what is above that? That is why I thought the factory could chime in.

Interesting note about the front closet. I may have to pull the shelves out.

How much did the insulation you added in the underbelly help? And did it only help with heating (vice cooling?)

Tim

Hi StrongJava,

I've never seen the factory jump in to help with modifications, so I would expect any responses to come from other owners.

I'd be surprised if there was any practical way to increase roof or sidewall insulation.

The front cap may have some, but some people have found that the factory insulation sometimes falls out of place. To work on it, you may have to disassemble parts of the front closet.

I've installed insulation in the underbelly. I used 4x8' sheets of foam board insulation with attic batting taped to one side. The foam board is cut to length so it just fits inside the frame. With the coroplast out of the way, push one end of the board against the frame on one side and flex the board to get the other end inserted. The frame holds it in place.

Depending on your tank arrangement, the foamboard approach may not work the full length of the coach - depends on clearances.

You might want to look into radiant heat barrier as well. Heartland uses that on a number of models these days.

 

[danemayer]

How much did the insulation you added in the underbelly help? And did it only help with heating (vice cooling?)

Tim

Tim,

It's hard to tell. I added insulation and used foam board skirting, a heater in the enclosure under the trailer, an extension of the duct into the underbelly and other things because we were in extreme cold weather in the Colorado mountains for ski season. The end result was that we were comfortable down to -30 (F). How much help did any one thing provide? Don't know.

 

[sengli]

Last I checked the walls, floors, and roofs are all vacuum bonded assemblies on the big horn lines. With aluminum frames...and various thicknesses of block foam insulation covered with layers of luan and thin ply. There would be no way to add any additional insulation "in" the walls, roof. and floors as they are a sealed units. Obviously on the floors you can try to add additional insulation under them. If you got the yeti package they add additional layers of that bubble wrap insulative material on top of the standard bat insulation.

 

[StrongJava]

The two sidewalls are vacuum-bonded assemblies even in my 2008 coach, but the rear wall has fiber insulation in it, as does the ceiling. I know the floor under the front is not insulated beyond having the basement underneath it, so an option is for me to insulate between the aluminum floor joists, which may help some.

As we head into summer, it is the ceiling I'm most interested in improving. An RV place here in San Antonio said the new style of roof they are putting on effectively adds a layer of insulation. I'm skeptical (as always), and would rather see better more traditional insulation between the ceiling and the roof. After pulling some vents today, It does appear it is possible to get some in there, just not sure how much. I'm curious if anyone has ever tried taking their ceiling panels down?

Tim

Last I checked the walls, floors, and roofs are all vacuum bonded assemblies on the big horn lines. With aluminum frames...and various thicknesses of block foam insulation covered with layers of luan and thin ply. There would be no way to add any additional insulation "in" the walls, roof. and floors as they are a sealed units. Obviously on the floors you can try to add additional insulation under them. If you got the yeti package they add additional layers of that bubble wrap insulative material on top of the standard bat insulation.