ATF: Landmark - Washer plumbing

Majestic

Well-known member
We have water flowing out from the pin box. I have cut and plugged the washer lines.

1). Can you tell me what fitting/valve is used, is this a threaded 1/2" pipe thread or a crimp style fitting.

2). Apparently the water has been flowing for 10-12 hrs, how much work is it going to be to replace the insulation, is it done from inside or outside the unit. Just want to be prepared for the length of down time.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Majestic,

For technical assistance from the factory, you're better off to call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030. Have your VIN # ready.

If the leak was near the washing machine connections, and ran down the inside of the front cap, you may be able to get to the insulation from the inside. I seem to remember someone posting about some closet work that revealed the insulation.

Insulation under the flooring is accessed by dropping the coroplast. Removing the front section of coroplast isn't too bad. It's easy to get it down. Getting it back up can be a challenge unless you have help. Use an impact wrench to get the screws out. If working alone, you can use a 2x4 and some large spring clamps as a helper to hold the coroplast while you put the screws back.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Hi Dan

checking out the process for info from the factory, email is easier for me but if i don't get a reply i will call.

the leak isn't in the belly, its coming out of the pin box and the underside is fully enclosed, looks like a big job if they have to pull all the cap and metal.

I had the belly off because the line to the fridge froze during delivery and the belly had over a gal of water in it, the insulation has to be all replaced before winter but giving the dealer a break since they are so busy pushing out units, that is as long as warranty is still going to cover it then. Work order is getting opened next week on all this.

i want to replace these valves at the washer rough in if they are threaded plastic with something more durable when they have it all apart
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Gary,

If the fridge supply line had water in it and froze, you may have other damage. The washing machine fixtures might be cracked for the same reason. If the washer was run and not winterized, it may have damage. The drain trap could be damaged.

Other areas to check would be the water pump and it's plastic inlet and outlet, and the fittings in the UDC.

Faucets and shower are also susceptible to damage.

The pex lines can survive freezing, but the parts that plug into them often can't.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Gary,

As it's past 5 EST on Friday, service won't get this post until next week.

You don't say if you have a wash machine. If you don't, as part of your repair process for this, you may want to cap off hot and cold lines where they T off behind the utility wall of your storage bay. Then you'll never have to winterize those lines each season.

If you do have a wash machine, as Dan suggests, you may have some internal damage there. As I understand it, the Splendide wash machine has a glass bearing in the water pump that is designed to break if frozen.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Good points guys, i will watch for this.

We haven't tested the washer yet. I opened the hatch in the closet wall, found water pouring down the cold water line, onto the carpet between the cap wall and the washer wall, 8" space. I am pretty sure it is the connection on the cold water line, maybe frost damage, maybe loose, maybe poor crimping.

I would love to have one of the cameras with a 4' cable on the end to see in these space. Might be worth investing in one.

We have started to smell a burnt rubber smell in the island today also, still exploring this as we have been parked 3 days. No indication of any electrical malfunction, yeti package turned off, very strange as it smells like overheated tires and it is not coming from the storage area. Can't be related to the water issue

We head home tomorrow, so off to the dealer asap.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
We have started to smell a burnt rubber smell in the island today also, still exploring this as we have been parked 3 days. No indication of any electrical malfunction,
Time to investigate before it gets worse. Might check behind the basement wall to see if the smell is worse or if you have any water leaking there. The power converter is back there. If you have generator prep, the transfer switch is probably back there as well.

If you've got a voltmeter, check several outlets for 120V between hot and neutral, and between hot and ground, and 0V between neutral and ground.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Thanks Dan

we have a gen set, pulled the wall out between the storage and the back side of the kitchen electrical. No smell. The island is still another 5' back, smell under island is very strong but still can't smell around inverter. Puzzled. Verified smoke detector is working, last night sleep before heading home (14 hrs).
 

danemayer

Well-known member
There's probably power going into the island. Maybe try turning that circuit breaker off and see if the smell clears up.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Your correct, 2 outlets, never been used and are not hot to touch, powered off for the night, i'll let you know
 

Majestic

Well-known member
We forget to post the finally, Yeti package has full time power and the insulation was burning from the power running all the time. It appears the switch was wired backwards. Finally blew the fuse. The insulation, wiring will have to be replaced.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
We forget to post the finally, Yeti package has full time power and the insulation was burning from the power running all the time. It appears the switch was wired backwards. Finally blew the fuse. The insulation, wiring will have to be replaced.
Gary,

Sounds like the switch was installed upside down. I don't think it matters which wire goes to which terminal on the switch. Was there water in the fresh water feed line between fresh tank and pump? Heat tape should be ok running continuously if there's water in the line to dissipate the heat. If there was water in the line, there may have been a secondary problem.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Unfortunately the insulation, heat trace and line have to be replaced. Dealer says HL won't cover it. I haven't checked the tanks yet, hope they didn't melt as well as they were empty as well. I'm not finished with this yet, i just need to prove it was the unit and not me.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Unfortunately the insulation, heat trace and line have to be replaced. Dealer says HL won't cover it. I haven't checked the tanks yet, hope they didn't melt as well as they were empty as well. I'm not finished with this yet, i just need to prove it was the unit and not me.
Gary,

I don't think you have to prove anything. The dealer has to be clear in the diagnosis and based on "wired backwards" they're not being clear. The heat tape rocker switch is probably a simple single-pole single-throw switch. The 12V DC power source goes to one side of the switch and the other side is connected to the heat tape. When the switch is pushed one way, the 2 wires are connected. When pushed the other way, they are not connected. There's no such thing as backwards. Iif the dealer is telling Heartland that the switch was wired backwards, they're being unclear and Heartland would probably be thinking they don't know what they're talking about. That would be a reason to deny warranty coverage.

If they tell Heartland that manufacturing installed the switch upside down, so when you thought it was turned OFF, it was actually ON, that very clearly is a manufacturing error that would have led directly to the damage. Now if there had been water in the line, there probably would not have been any damage. But sooner or later you would drain the lines for one legitimate reason or another and power would still be ON because of the manufacturing error. So it's irrelevant whether you had water in the line.

If the switch was installed upside down, I feel certain that if this is explained correctly to Heartland that they will cover the repairs under warranty.

As for the tanks, that's a bit different. On most rigs there's a separate switch to turn on the tank heaters. It's typically a large wall-type illuminated switch. When ON, it lights up. If the tanks are empty, having the tank heaters ON can damage the tanks. I know this because I ran for 6 weeks with gray tank valves open (empty tanks) and tank heaters on to protect the black and fresh tanks. The gray #1 tank had several holes burned through. Gray #2 was ok. Note that I ran this way for 6 weeks - not for a few days. When I talked to Annod Industries, they were very surprised at the damage but agreed that if the tank was empty it could happen.

So if you left the tank heater switch ON with tanks empty, the switch would have been illuminated. Even if installed incorrectly, it's reasonable to expect you to have noticed the light. But I'd be surprised if they installed both switches wrong. And if you didn't run with the heaters on for an extended period, you probably don't have any damage.

If one or more tanks are damaged, you'll be able to tell because when full, they'll leak and you have water seeping out of the coroplast. If you do have tank damage, the tank can be patched easily but the heating pad will have to be replaced as part of the repair because it won't survive being removed in order to patch the tank.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
DanBoth switches have lights in them, both were off yet power to the Yeti, i will discuss directly with HL. This all happened when while travelling down the hwy, the 1/2 full fresh water tank drained up into the belly, dealer couldn't see why this happened, when we stopped we could see the water dripping out, tank empty and the burning smell. This happened on the first major road trip about 3 weeks after deliveryI would assume the heating pads are on the bottom of each tank, i will have the belly open next week so i will see try and see if any potential issues, would rather have HL pay for the replacement or repairs.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
I would be contacting HL personally. Never mind going through the dealer at first. You need to talk to them and give them the info. The dealer really does not have YOUR best interest in mind.
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Agreed, i usually give the dealer the benefit of the doubt for the first try, then move up the ladder.

i am heading home tomorrow with a full water tank to see if it leaks out again. Going to do some more testing to hit HL with all the issues at once.

I believe I read here at one time that you can get a printout from HL of all the warranty that was applied for, what was authorized and what was rejected. Hope I understood that correctly, it will assist with the integrity of the dealer as well as help us to understand why parts ordered after the PDI, in April, still are not at the dealer.

Thanks
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Gary, i doubt there are any problems with the tanks due to the tank heaters if this happened while travelling down the highway - the tank heaters are 110V. The heat trace on the water line from the fresh tank is 12V and could deteriorate and reach failure if they were malfunctioning while 12V was being applied while travelling.

I find it puzzling the dealer could not see why this happened; seems pretty straight forward to troubleshoot.

Brian
 

Majestic

Well-known member
Hi Brian

i sometimes think the dealer or his staff are not totally with it. In looking at the Yeti system switches and as Dan mentioned, how can they be wired wrong, something just isn't right. Our problem occurred while travelling so it is the 12v side unless the tank heaters are connected to the inverter.
 
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