soonerborn
Member
My kitchen sink is falling. I've looked underneath and can't find what is supposed to be holding it up. It looks like maybe it was only glued and the glue has cracked. Can someone please tell me how this can be fixed?
Bighorn 3600RE Kitchen Sink
- Thread starter soonerborn
- Start date
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
It sounds like your best option would be to remove it and re-install using new adhesive/caulk and undermount sink clips. Just like a residential sink. Everything you need should be available at your local home center.
soonerborn
Member
That will be quite a job as the countertop sets on top of the sink. I'm not sure what all will be involved in removing it. I'm wondering if all the sinks in all 3600RE were installed like mine. One doesn't think to look at things like this when doing the inspection of a trailer.
Thanks, Ray, for your suggestion.
Thanks, Ray, for your suggestion.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
You can order the clips that are in the post that Cookie attached from Heartland. If you don't have at least some already, INSIST that HL send them to you gratis. The clips cost about a buck each, but the S&H is $10. Even if you do have some clips, it is quite possible that you do not have as many as shown in those photos. My sink had one at either end and two on the faucet side. None in the front, and that's where mine started to leak. Run a bead of silicone along the top of the sink flange before reattaching it to the countertop with the clips. A thin bead of silicone along the edge of the countertop and sink flange after attachment is an added safety against leaks from water that collects there.
If you get the clips from HL, they don't seem to fully understand how they actually mount their sinks. It took some explaining to get across what I was asking for. They send the clips, but they come with threaded rods and wing nuts. Useless. They are actually mounted using screws directly into the wood framing around the sink opening, as you see in the photos.
If you get the clips from HL, they don't seem to fully understand how they actually mount their sinks. It took some explaining to get across what I was asking for. They send the clips, but they come with threaded rods and wing nuts. Useless. They are actually mounted using screws directly into the wood framing around the sink opening, as you see in the photos.
caissiel
Senior Member
I am one of the original writer of the problem.
We found out that by traveling with stuff in the sink is not a real good Idea.
Also don't put heavy stuff on the covers when on the sinks.
The clips should give it some support.
I read somewhere that clips are optional.
I contacted Heartland and they send me 10 clips and I used 2 on each end 2 in the middle on each side and again 1 on each side of the sinks for a total of 10.
Had to get screw just the length of the wood thickness under the sink, I think it was no6 x 1/2" or 5/8"
I had to remove the sink completely out and clean it real well not to be leaving any calking.
Went to the garage and cut out 2 x 2's, 2 longer then the sink opening and 2 were 6" to fit under the sinks by the drain hole. Bought 5/16" rod and cut it to fit between the 2 wood pieces,(one under the drain and one over the counter on each sink. Drilled 3/8" hole in each piece of wood at the middle.
I then did a dry run to check if all the tools fit right and installed the sink in place and tighten the rods thus holding the sink tight under the countertop. tighten the nuts a bit an voila the sink was held in place. Used washers between the nuts and wood. Also used 5/16" rod because i had lots of nuts and washers here. Then I marked with a light pensil mark on the sink to mark the countertop edges at the sink. The sink is an over the counter unit model and the flange is not flat so its important to be able to see the limits
Removed the sink again and spread the silicone on the top of the sink boarder and proceeded to reinstall it the same way I tested it. Wiped out the excess silicone and cleaned it all and waited.
Left the sink held that way overnight and replaced the fittings the next morning.
Replaced the drains at the same time. But my drains were shorter then the originals and it was nessesary to raise the drain, and p trap to reach, what a hard job as I had to cut a hole over the existing pipe.
Hope it does help.
We found out that by traveling with stuff in the sink is not a real good Idea.
Also don't put heavy stuff on the covers when on the sinks.
The clips should give it some support.
I read somewhere that clips are optional.
I contacted Heartland and they send me 10 clips and I used 2 on each end 2 in the middle on each side and again 1 on each side of the sinks for a total of 10.
Had to get screw just the length of the wood thickness under the sink, I think it was no6 x 1/2" or 5/8"
I had to remove the sink completely out and clean it real well not to be leaving any calking.
Went to the garage and cut out 2 x 2's, 2 longer then the sink opening and 2 were 6" to fit under the sinks by the drain hole. Bought 5/16" rod and cut it to fit between the 2 wood pieces,(one under the drain and one over the counter on each sink. Drilled 3/8" hole in each piece of wood at the middle.
I then did a dry run to check if all the tools fit right and installed the sink in place and tighten the rods thus holding the sink tight under the countertop. tighten the nuts a bit an voila the sink was held in place. Used washers between the nuts and wood. Also used 5/16" rod because i had lots of nuts and washers here. Then I marked with a light pensil mark on the sink to mark the countertop edges at the sink. The sink is an over the counter unit model and the flange is not flat so its important to be able to see the limits
Removed the sink again and spread the silicone on the top of the sink boarder and proceeded to reinstall it the same way I tested it. Wiped out the excess silicone and cleaned it all and waited.
Left the sink held that way overnight and replaced the fittings the next morning.
Replaced the drains at the same time. But my drains were shorter then the originals and it was nessesary to raise the drain, and p trap to reach, what a hard job as I had to cut a hole over the existing pipe.
Hope it does help.
soonerborn
Member
Thanks to everyone for all your help. After inspecting underneath again, I found that they put clips on the faucet side but none on the front. The pictures are a big help. I'll call HL tomorrow and request the clips and screws.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Laurent is correct. The sink is actually an over the counter model being used in an under the counter mount. As with all things RV, the application of sufficient silicone caulk/adhesive is questionable. The use of the support clips should not be optional, but in some cases it has been.
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