Blowing out water and antifreeze

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Couple questions here on this.

1. If you use the blow out method (along w/ antifreeze), what psi do you set air compressor at? Is this a 2 person job? Does it help?

2. Anyone else seeing or having a hard time getting RV antifreeze? Not saying it's not avail, but at Wally World, the Super-Tech stuff is hard to come by it seems. Now wether you like it or not isn't the question and may not be for everyone as our coach is inside storage so it is a bit more protected from extremely cold temps. WM is selling it for 3 bucks /gallon. I know local RV dealer's have antifreeze (different brands??), but closer to 5 bucks/gallon. I know, should have done this sooner, but who is really thinking about antifreeze during mid summer and 90* temps? Just curious.
 

danemayer

Moderator
Staff member
20-40 psi for the air compressor.

If you're storing indoors, and temps only get a little below freezing, blowing out with air and a bit of antifreeze in the p-traps will work. I did that in central Texas for years. Now in Colorado, I'm using antifreeze.

Don't forget the washing machine and/or washer prep.

And if using compressed air, you'll have to evacuate the water from the pump strainer bowl and pump separately as running air through the main water inlet won't touch that. You could blow air into the antifreeze suction line to go through the pump, but might need to empty the strainer bowl manually anyway.

Take a look at our Winterization Guide for more complete info.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Are use this Adapter with the quick connect. Set my compressor to 40 psi

Camco Blow Out Plug With Brass Quick Connect-Aids In Removal of Water From Water Lines (36143) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b0IAFb5WDXDK4

Thanks Jaimie as I don't have that one, rather the one where you stick the tire chuck over it and have to hold onto it and someone goes inside and opens each valve up.

Never have used the air method in addition to anti-freeze before so wasn't sure what advantages there would be (besides less water to run thru system). Even after I have pink running out of each faucet, I usually add anti-freeze to drains so to fill P traps and have some run into tanks (may not be much-----but some is better than none). My rationale for more is: anti-freeze is cheap insurance compared to not adding more. Probly not the best rationale, but........
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
We just bought pink stuff for the pool plumbing at Walmart for less than $3.
I made my own air compressor adapter quick connect to blow the lines at 20-30 psi for one man operation. I Evacuate all the lines with air then pump in the pink stuff that way the pump plumbing and stainer bowl are protected. Like you plenty of pink stuff in the traps so some mixes with any water residual in the tanks
IMO I think I use less pink stuff if I clear the lines of water first


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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I used 40 psi when I cleared my plumbing lines. Then pumped in anti-freeze using the water pump suction line. I attached an extension to that and stuck it into a 5 gallon pail of AF so I could go inside and open/close valves, working alone. The washing machine had to be run on a specific cycle to winterize it. Failure to do so and you will regret it next time you use it. When I shopped for AF, I specifically looked for the brands that did not contain alcohol.

In the spring, I again used air to clear the AF, followed by 18 gallons (3-jerry cans) of chlorinated water using the AF uptake on the water pump. Then connected to city water and did an extended flush of the system. To clear the washing machine, a specific cycle is used with some detergent and no clothes in it.
 

JWalker

Northeast Region Director-Retired
Thanks Jaimie as I don't have that one, rather the one where you stick the tire chuck over it and have to hold onto it and someone goes inside and opens each valve up.

Never have used the air method in addition to anti-freeze before so wasn't sure what advantages there would be (besides less water to run thru system). Even after I have pink running out of each faucet, I usually add anti-freeze to drains so to fill P traps and have some run into tanks (may not be much-----but some is better than none). My rationale for more is: anti-freeze is cheap insurance compared to not adding more. Probly not the best rationale, but........

I was using one like this but switched to the quick connect. As I was tired of nagging Ginger to come out and help me do it. This way it is a one person job.
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I cycle all the water outlets multiple times with air to get rid of most of the water. Then 5.5 gallons of pink stuff throughout.


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SNOKING

Well-known member
I just winterized our 5th wheel this morning. Put about 3.5 gals of pink stuff in a 5 gal pale. And stuck the draw hose in it. When the pump came up to pressure I did the underside shower first Then the toilet and bowl spray hose, the BR sink, the shower, and then the kitchen sink. I also switched my valve to fill the water tank with the water pump to push a little pink stuff in that line(for a second or two). Lines to the W/D facets are block off in the dungeon, as we do not have those. Quick process and pink stuff gets into the p-traps in the process.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Here’s my homemade air quick connect and siphon hose for the pink stuff
ea19cc0e95fc8fde6ec78078832a1a9a.jpg


About 6’ of suction hose, male hose end, air hose connector, couple clamps

I use about 3 gallons


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sengli

Well-known member
I read some where many years ago, not to use much more than 10psi to blow out the lines. So thats what I do using the camco brass fitting on the water inlet. I also live where it does at times get quite cold in the winter. My rig has to sit outside. Did an experiment once where I poured some of the brand name -50 rated anti freeze in a jar and left it out at around zero. Was frozen like a brick, a pink brick ......but none the less it does freeze solid. I have lost two water pumps while doing the anti freeze only routine.

Now I do the anti freeze, but then blow the lines out as well. So far that has worked the best for me.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Considering I used 40 psi to blow out my lines for 11 years, I don’t think it was harmful. The normal CG water pressure where we stayed was 45 to 50 psi.


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NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Thanks for the input gang!! I ordered the plug Jaime suggested as I had the brass version of other one he posted and asking for Ginger's help. Putting the AF into a 5 gal pail and a hose is a GREAT idea when by yourself-----never thought of that one. Always ran back/forth between opening valves and switching jugs. I've always gone to farthest valves first (kitchen) and worked towards the DC and ended up doing the outside shower last. Kinda got sorta smart and made up 2 short hoses and connected them to W/D valves at same time and open them one at a time into a pail seeing we don't have a W/D. I say sorta smart only cuz I'm lazy and figure it's easier to attach and open them all at once and not have to put pail down to switch things. After all, I'm just a dumb truck driver----at least that's what we say amongst ourselves at work.

Anyways, Thanks again for all the ideas!

Mike
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
We don’t have a W/D so I added shut offs to those lines in the basement. I never need to winterize them


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brianlajoie

Well-known member
We had our by-pass valve freeze after following the air/antifreeze process a couple of years ago. The water I think was after the by-pass valve shutting off the water heater.

I have now added another step in the process to open the by-pass valve when using air with the water heater drain open already. I let the compressor get down to about 10 PSI and pop the by-pass valve to get a little puff of air in the valve and push the little water in that area over to the water heater tank.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
We had our by-pass valve freeze after following the air/antifreeze process a couple of years ago. The water I think was after the by-pass valve shutting off the water heater.

I have now added another step in the process to open the by-pass valve when using air with the water heater drain open already. I let the compressor get down to about 10 PSI and pop the by-pass valve to get a little puff of air in the valve and push the little water in that area over to the water heater tank.

Good idea.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Similar here. Valve didn’t freeze but the short line from the valve to the WH had ice in it one winter. Didn’t break anything but when we dewinterized on our way south had no water flowing into the WH until it thawed out overnight
Sequence should be drain and flush WH before charging the lines with air to evacuate any water between that valve and WH.
I remember flushing the WH after I added the pink stuff so consequently water collected in that line and didn’t drain out


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NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Well I suffered from the dreaded hot water bypass valve failure today. Thought things were going too smoothly and when I went to add the AF, it was going into the hot water tank w/ the bypass valve engaged! Like "Oh cr**", now what. Have read where there have been many failures of this part and thought I'd escape it.......NOT. Must be a good part cuz nobody has one (at least locally). Old RV said he could get me one overnight for 100 bucks. Not sure if local RV parts supplier has any, other HL dealers don't as well....can get in a day/2. Am thinking of a place in the city (Syracuse) that handles plumbing supplies and all, but would rather not waste travel time and if all else, jerry rig a temp solution.

Any and all suggestions welcomed.

Oh, horse of a different color, had to reset my password as I somehow got logged out of this forum and none of the others I belong to. Dang Halloween gremlins!
 

brianlajoie

Well-known member
The part is not exclusive to Heartland. You could open up your search criteria to include other dealers. Just note the model number and manufacturer. You could also reach out to the manufacturer and ask them how much to ship you one over night. Ours that failed was plastic and weighed very little. You will need a pipe cutter and crimper.
 
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