Antifreeze vs Near-Empty for Winter Storage

My Travel Trailer is stored in my driveway, in the foothills north of Atlanta. Right now, my fresh tank, water heater, cabin floor and cabinet tubing, toilet and faucets are substantially filled with Antifreeze. That should be fine for 25degF weather we're having at night now.

HOWEVER, a 12degF night is coming next week (thanks, Santa!), amidst 4 days never above 32degF. I'm concerned. Here's why:

FIRST, I think a little antifreeze and a lot of air might be BETTER than simply full of antifreeze. I've never heard of air freezing and expanding to break things in the natural surface-of-the-earth world.

SECOND, I realize 12degF is not 0degF or -4degF or -50degF.

I put some antifreeze in a plastic bottle (a rinsed rubbing alcohol bottle; I couldn't find a little water bottle in the house). I put this bottle in our -4degF freezer, reading 0degF this morning. This morning, the bottom has slush in it, so the antifreeze that claims to be good to -50degF hasn't frozen solid. However, I believe the bottle *IS* slightly expanded. This slight expansion concerns me. I'm less concerned about the cabin floor and cabinet tubing, especially if I leave all the faucet valves open. Any expansion of the slush should press out the faucet values and faucet. I'm highly concerned about the three ball valves for draining the hot & cold cabin tubing plus the fresh tank. I'm also highly concerned about the toilet valve as well as any valves inside my great self-remodeled Brondell S1000 toilet seat bidet.

Specifically, the ball valves totally trap some antifreeze inside. Even if not frozen, I'm concerned that the expansion of the slush in the confined space might crack the ball valves. I don't have a MEASURE for the expansion, and I don't have experience with it in this situation. I'm also worried about the Dometic RV toilet flush valve, that might also trap fluid inside it when shut. And I'm concerned about the aqua-mechanics inside the bidet which might also have confined fluid when not operating.

Therefore, I'm thinking I should now go drain it all back out. Any antifreeze left at unintentional low points in the pipes will have plenty of air in the pipes for expansion. The open faucets won't have any antifreeze near them because it will have flowed away downhill. The drain valves will be left open and not have any confined antifreeze. I *should* be able to flush the toilet get that flush valve substantially empty. Residual antifreeze left in the fresh tank should have plenty of expansion room. So should antifreeze in the traps. The little bit of antifreeze in the gray and black tanks from filling toilet and traps should have plenty of expansion room.

All that leaves, I think, are the toilet check valve and the unknown tiny internals of the bidet. I should receive a blow-out plug Tuesday, before the very hard freeze. I figure I can blow the antifreeze out to make my unintentional pipe low points even more empty. And if I set my compressor pressure below 40psi to be safe when things are all closed, I ought to be able to flush the toilet and operate the bidet in order to flush air through and at least get some of the antifreeze out. That will leave air room in everything regarding this whole fear of expanding antifreeze. (Yes, I realize not expanding is the whole point of antifreeze, but where was it made? what shortcuts were taken? is it really just about not becoming solid and having room to expand elsewhere. BTW, I have a lose valve in my freezer testing as well, with antifreeze trapped inside it. It has NOT shown any cracks that I can see. But it's a higher quality metal valve than the metal valve on my TT.) I will have to be careful about the bidet's internal water heater. I'll need to set it as cold as possible and only operate for a second or two. Wouldn't want the heater element to injure itself trying to heat air that isn't communicating the heat well to a nearby temperature sensor. Unlikely but possible.

Finally, I have three low point valves, for cabin hot, cabin cold, and fresh water tank. I'll drain ALL this stuff out, right back into the gallon jugs for use next time.

Thoughts?
 
...oh, more info. I'm camping southward only 3 weeks after the 12degF event. So I'm going to have to be draining (and saving for next time) all the antifreeze anyway. So do I drain and blow it out before the 12degF day, just in case, or do that 3 weeks later because I must? My tanks and pipes were safe, no bacteria, before I added the antifreeze. Is the antifreeze antibacterial? If I left water still and unmoving in the TT for four weeks, I would want to sanitize with dilute bleach before using. This is especially true over longer time periods. What about the antifreeze? If I leave it in there for four weeks and then travel, I'll need to not only drain and blow out the antifreeze, but I will also feel like I need to re-sanitize, which is yet more trouble. But since I'm going to have to drain and blow anyway, just do it now, before the 12degF weather. The small residual antifreeze plus air certainly won't cause freeze damage. It won't provide much volume for bacterial growth, either. So when it's time to travel, I just flush the antifreeze with plenty of fresh water (a single flush), rather than having to first do that and then have to (dilute) bleach flush (now a second flush) and clear that out (now a third flush).
 

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
living in northern WI where we see -20 or colder haven't had any problems using anti-freeze in our rv. Yes the RV antifreeze does get slushy at low temps, I've seen that leaving a jug outside BUT I've never seen a jug expand. So I just keep using the anti-freeze.
 

sengli

Well-known member
I use anti freeze , and then usually blow out the lines with compressed air (less than 10psi). Never had any issues so far. I have put the good pink stuff rated for -50 in a jar and left it outside, and it does freeze solid at 10 degrees or so and below.
 
Last edited:

Bogie

Well-known member
My Travel Trailer is stored in my driveway, in the foothills north of Atlanta. Right now, my fresh tank, water heater, cabin floor and cabinet tubing, toilet and faucets are substantially filled with Antifreeze. That should be fine for 25degF weather we're having at night now.
Just a curiosity question here.

Why do you fill the water heater with antifreeze? Why not just drain the water heater and put it in bypass before putting antifreeze in the rest of the system? Seems like you will use a lot more antifreeze than necessary. Especially if you plan to drain and refill after your trip.
 

jerryjay11

Well-known member
Just a curiosity question here.

Why do you fill the water heater with antifreeze? Why not just drain the water heater and put it in bypass before putting antifreeze in the rest of the system? Seems like you will use a lot more antifreeze than necessary. Especially if you plan to drain and refill after your trip.
To add something: I've read somewhere that you shouldn't put antifreeze in the HWH. By-pas it and drain is all I do and the rest of the plumbing is filled with antifreeze.
 

NYSUPstater

Well-known member
I've always just used the pink AF from Wal-Mart. Bypass the WH, fill all the lines via run AF thru them, add more where "P" traps are. Granted ours sits inside a building in winter (not heated), but it's still warmer than being outside. Been doing it this way since '05 and no problems.
 
Last edited:

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
When we had our BH, I pumped non-EtOH antifreeze into it and it sat outside in a storage yard through the Michigan winters without any damage to the plumbing. When winterizing, I first blew out the lines with 40psi air, then ran the AF in via the water pump. Dumped some into the toilet bowl and poured a little more into all drains just to insure the P-traps were full. Only the water tank and water heater bypassed. Left the water heater anode loosely in place after using a small towel to draw any residual water out and the fresh water tank drain open.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

centerline

Well-known member
the pink RV anti-freeze is NOT pure alcohol or pure propylene glycol..... in pure form they both have a freezing point below -70 degrees.... and unlike water, neither one will expand upon freezing.... water is the only known substance that is liquid at normal temperatures, but will EXPAND as it freezes....
the antifreeze in either form will readily mix with water, yet the water can STILL freeze within the mixture, but as the percentage of propylene glycol to water is increased, it lowers the freezing (solidifying) point, preventing any expansion of the blended water....

at any given percentage ratio of the antifreeze solution, there is a point where the solution will become slushy, and remain as a slush as the temperature drops even lower, but all the little crystals that are trying to form in this slush cant bind together to expand, so it just becomes thicker until it gets to the critical temperature where the percentage of propylene glycol becomes less effective in the preventing the ice crystals from bonding... and expanding.

due to the taste of the anti freeze, and or any purported damage that it may cause, I have always recommended that people drain the freshwater system and blow it out....then let it set for a few hours for any trapped water to collect in the low spots and blow it out again. and this should be all that is really needed. and the FW system can be used at anytime during the freezing weather if one wants to use the RV WITHOUT any time or troubles to do so....

but for those who insist on NEEDING antifreeze, the system should be drained, blown out, and then flushed with the antifreeze (catching it for re-use next year)... then blow the system out with air leaving it empty except for the residual amount of antifreeze...
this will leave very little of anything that can expand in ANY temperature and minimize the constant contact of the propylene glycol with seals and diaphragms.... and make for a quicker recommissioning come spring time.

our trailer had the lines and water tank full of the antifreeze when we bought it, which it had set for 2 years with it in there, and it took a lot of flushing to make the water out of the tap usable.... it would run fresh, but when the faucet was opened after setting 30-40 minutes, it had the terrible antifreeze taste again... I dont recommend leaving your lines full of the stuff....

if one wants to lower the temp of the propylene glycol RV antifreeze, a pint of pure grain alcohol added to a gallon of antifreeze will do it, but I feel its an unnecessary need and cost.....

a homemade option for antifreeze is sugar water with a bit of grain alcohol added to keep it stable and fresh... its my belief that SOME brands of rv antifreeze manufactures are using this formulation and coloring it pink for use in rvs..... it being cheap, non toxic and with full spectrum anti-microbial properties....
 

david-steph2018

Well-known member
When we use to winterize, I would use the pink anti-freeze like everybody else. I would open the low point drains, and a faucet, drain the cold/hot water lines like this. Remove the drain plug on the water heater, drain it, lay the plug next to the water heater, bypass the plumbing for the water heater.
Then use the water pump and pump the antifreeze into the water lines. Open each hot/cold faucet, do not forget the outside shower, and run the antifreeze thru the system. I did not drain the antifreeze out until spring.
This was while we lived in Ohio for the winters. I winterize like this since 2002 to 2019, when we went full time.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Read the label or look up the SDS on the RV antifreeze brands you have available. Some have up to 10% Ethyl Alcohol (EtOH), and others do not. I always chose the brands without it.

For info on the types of AF available, use this link.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

Allen G

Member
living in northern WI where we see -20 or colder haven't had any problems using anti-freeze in our rv. Yes the RV antifreeze does get slushy at low temps, I've seen that leaving a jug outside BUT I've never seen a jug expand. So I just keep using the anti-freeze.
Yes antifreeze does a very good job, used a compressor once and had breaks. I do not ever put antifreeze I my hot water tank, it will corrode it. You only need to take out the anode from bottom and drain, air will dry out the 1/4 inch of water left. I run taps until pure antifreeze, and then pour a few ounces in each sink to protect traps, also, I put some in the toilet to keep the seal from drying out
 
Top