Brakes not holding as well as they should

[1adam12]

I have a 2011 Heartland Elkridge 35QSQB 38’ bunkhouse. When I first bought the camper (about 8 months ago) I would run my brake controller on about 8.5. Now I am running it on 10 and can barely feel it holding back when I squeeze the brake controller. And when sitting still, I can compress the brake controller all the way and it takes about 2 to 3 seconds before it will start holding at all. I know the problem is not my brake controller because I pull another trailer and it works perfect. I am pulling with a 2008 Ford F-350 DRW diesel with built in controller. Does anyone have experience with this? Does this sound like warn trailer brake pads or some other braking problem?

 

[rhodies1]

I have a 2011 Heartland Elkridge 35QSQB 38’ bunkhouse. When I first bought the camper (about 8 months ago) I would run my brake controller on about 8.5. Now I am running it on 10 and can barely feel it holding back when I squeeze the brake controller. And when sitting still, I can compress the brake controller all the way and it takes about 2 to 3 seconds before it will start holding at all. I know the problem is not my brake controller because I pull another trailer and it works perfect. I am pulling with a 2008 Ford F-350 DRW diesel with built in controller. Does anyone have experience with this? Does this sound like warn trailer brake pads or some other braking problem?

chances are you will need to adjust your brakes shoes on your trailer,they could be worn out as well, worth checking.

 

[RoadJunkie]

My first step would be to check the brake adjustment, do a search on YouTube for trailer brake adjustment if you don't have previous experience on this step. Then, while the wheel is still off the ground use your truck to activate the brakes while the wheel is turning to ensure the magnet is working. If that all goes well, time for a (slow) test pull to check everything in real-world conditions.

 

[1adam12]

I had another guy tell me to check the brake adjustment. I guess I thought they were self-adjusting. I will take your advise and check the adjustment. Thanks

 

[Bob&Patty]

Self adjusters were not being installed in 2011.

 

[cookie]

If your rig has the easy lube axles and someone recently pumped grease into them there is a chance that the brakes got contaminated with grease.

Peace
Dave

 

[1adam12]

My guess is, that because they worked better when I bought it last year, it will turn out to be a brake adjustment. I didn't know the part about not having self-adjusters on 2011 models. I will try adjusting the brakes this weekend.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Self adjusting brakes can be installed on your rig. Look on Amazon for the kits. Thees coaches are not cars or trucks that have 4 wheel disc brakes. It has only been a few years that disc brakes kits have been available. The same with self adjusting drum brakes.

 

[bdb2047]

My guess is, that because they worked better when I bought it last year, it will turn out to be a brake adjustment. I didn't know the part about not having self-adjusters on 2011 models. I will try adjusting the brakes this weekend.

Check your axles if they are Dexter they may be self adjusting .Mine where.

 

[Lou_and_Bette]

Check your axles if they are Dexter they may be self adjusting .Mine where.

Our 2011 Road Warrior had them also.

 

[avvidclif]

Definitions:
Self: operator of the rig or apparatus in question.
Adjusting: A method of compensating for normal wear.

Comment: Self adjusting brakes work if the correct procedure is followed to allow them to work. Read the manual. Most require a backing up at a certain speed and then applying the trailer brakes. This usually has to be done several times in a row to adjust the brakes to optimal levels. Just normal operation will not "self-adjust".

My experience.

 

[danemayer]

On Landmark, Heartland switched from Lippert to Dexter axles (including brakes) on 2011 builds starting around August 10, 2010. I think the switch on other models may have followed at a later date. No idea when Elkridge might have changed.

If you do have Dexter axles, as I recall, their manual says they are supposed to adjust from usage in either direction. But as with most things mechanical, sometimes they don't.

 

[Rollin_Free]

If your rig has the easy lube axles and someone recently pumped grease into them there is a chance that the brakes got contaminated with grease.

Peace
Dave

X2- If you do have the easy lube and if you purchased from a dealer they probably lubricated the wheels as part of their service. They sometimes use the air driven grease guns which is a no-no because it puts excessive pressure on the rear seals and will either push it out of the hub or crack the rubber. When the seals can't hold back the pressure it leaks grease out behind the hub without you knowing until after you use the trailer. The problem is you really won't know what's happening until you remove the hub to see why the brakes aren't working. If the drum area is greasy you have two options. 1. Start deep cleaning to get all the grease off the entire drum and break pad plate and then make sure you replace the pads. 2. Replace the complete axle back plate that has new pads, magnet, springs, etc. at a cost of around $50 for each wheel (preferred) and thourghly clean the grease off the drum. Whichever method you chose the seals must be replaced to keep the grease where it's suppose to be.

 

[Gary521]

The self adjusting brakes will self adjust in either direction. However, you need to manually adjust them after the install FIRST. Some people do not do this or are not aware that this is necessary. Brakes also need to be burnished. I think they work great. Dexter self adjusting brakes will fit on any manufacture's axle.

 

[lynndiwagoner]

Rollin gave you the best answer. You won't know until you pull the thing apart, and it's really not hard to do. I would highly recommend the complete assembly which comes with new everything. Pretty reasonable cost from etrailer.com.

 

[1adam12]

Thanks all for the good advise. I watched a youtube video on replacement. They also replaced the whole assembly instead of trying to change out individual parts. Looked like a very simple repair.

 

[Rollin_Free]

Thanks all for the good advise. I watched a youtube video on replacement. They also replaced the whole assembly instead of trying to change out individual parts. Looked like a very simple repair.

X2- it is really the easiest most economical way to replace the brakes IMO. On a side note while you have the hub off you should really take them to a mechanic (or yourself) to examine bearings and replace worn ones or if in good condition repack them before you install the new seal and put it back on the trailer. Make sure you use high temperature bearing grease and pack the hub completely to help dissipate heat. I don't know how comfortable you are mechanically working on machinery so while replacing the brake plate assembly is easy it's very important the bearings are lubricated and tightened properly on the axle.

Just a couple things.
1. When you replace the seal it must be flush, not recessed, with the back of the hub. Take a picture before removing the existing one to help.

2. When you tighten the main hub nut make sure you follow the manual closely. It's extremely important to have it set properly to maintain bearing integrity. Watch YouTube to make sure you completely understand the correct procedure. If not done correctly it will become a bad day at some point.

 

[1adam12]

Follow up - So I was successful in adjusting the brakes on all 4 wheels. However, while inspecting the brake pads and assemblies, I noticed a greasy film on the electromagnet that operates the trailer brakes. There was also a light film on the inner part of the drum. It seems to me that the magnet and drum should be totally clean and dry for the braking system to operate properly. Can anyone comment on my concern?

 

[Rollin_Free]

Follow up - So I was successful in adjusting the brakes on all 4 wheels. However, while inspecting the brake pads and assemblies, I noticed a greasy film on the electromagnet that operates the trailer brakes. There was also a light film on the inner part of the drum. It seems to me that the magnet and drum should be totally clean and dry for the braking system to operate properly. Can anyone comment on my concern?

Yep it's probably axle grease from the rear seals leaking at the back of the drum. When you inspect them they should be flexible, not have any cracks, and be installed flush with the back edge of the hub. The hub should be dry and clean so a replacement brake assembly is really the best way to fix the issue. Regardless of the condition of the seal if you replace the brake assembly new seals for the hub should be installed as a good measure just to be sure the axle is sealed.

After you replace the brake assembly dissemble the defective one and keep some of the hardware (i.e. springs, clips, adjuster, etc.). It's amazing how expensive a spring you or another RV'er might need can cost just when you need one. In your case they are basically free. I threw mine away the first time and less than a week later the brake adjuster spring broke on my rig. Hind sight is of course 20-20 so oh well.

 

[cookie]

You have a good basis for concern.
If there is a greasy film on the magnets that is good evidence of a leaky seal.
When you had the brake drums off and inspected did you clean everything and install new seal before re-assembly?

Peace
Dave