Calling all Cyclone 4000 owners... Need input ASAP Please!

[sbuckman]

Looking at trading up again, to a 2014 4000 from a 2011 3812. I have some questions and concerns and am hoping those of you that are already owners can fill in with your personal experience to help us come to a conclusion on purchasing the new one. My first concern is the bathroom, where on EARTH do you store towels? In looking at the cabinet there is not any room in there to store towels at all! Also in looking at the kitchen am thinking I am going to loose out here on storage and am very concerned. How does that upper cabinet work for you? What do you store in it? I was thinking my dishes, but I am only 5'5" and it is a heck of a reach to barely get to it! I can store pots and pans under the stove... but otherwise not much storage other than the pantry. How do you like only the 2 and 1/4 tiny drawers in the kitchen? Very worried about that option. Also would like just a overall general feedback on the unit... We are looking at a 4000 at a show and have a decent offer that will expire when the show is over.... tomorrow!

When we compare the two the things we like on the 4000 we don't currently have on the 3812:
1) Larger Basement
2) King Bed
3) Bed slide out rather than the closet slide we have now... much larger bedroom and storage in closet (counting washer/dryer area)
4) 6 point leveling
5) Bathroom not directly off the kitchen so you dont see the feet of the person on the toilet while you are eating : )
6) HappiJac Dinette/Beds in Garage (we do not have in 3812 but did put in a love seat that makes into a bed there but takes up the space)
7) Family friendly seating in living area with easier tv viewing

Advantage of the 3812
1) Plenty of bathroom storage
2)4 full size drawers in kitchen
3) Island with additional storage and seating
4) SMALLER PAYMENT!

 

[alex00]

I wish I could offer specifics about where to store things, but we just got our 4000 home last week. I've been concentrating on installing TVs and playing with 6 pt level up . I noticed the kitchen storage you talk about, but thought I could make up for the room by adding shelves in the pantry. My plan is silverware in the 1/4 top drawer, cooking utensils below that and foil/plastic wrap type stuff below that. I'm 6'4" and that upper cabinet is not the easiest. I was going to keep extra towels in the bedroom closet, but that's how we did it in our old trailer. Coming from a mid profile 33' bunkhouse fiver, I am overwhelmed by usable bedroom and basement storage.

Your list of pros is very similar to mine. I was willing to trade storage in the kitchen for the awesome living room. I wish I had more suggestions, but I'm learning as I go.

 

[Subdrv]

We have lived in our 4000 for the last six months, the cabinet above the microwave get things we don't need a lot. I'm 5' 7" so we have a 3 step ladder we got from lowes. The loft bunk is the wife appliance and extra stuff storage. Extra towels are under the bed in milk crates. We added shelves in the pantry for more storage and puck lights so you can see what's in there.

 

[remoandiris]

Are you looking at the double door fridge or single door fridge. Single has cabinets between the fridge and the pantry. There is a bit of space under the sink but you have to modify it to suit your needs. Crock pot, indoor grill, etc are kept in the bunk area.

Other marques have similar floorplans to the 4000. Maybe you should look at them to see if they would better meet your needs.

 

[sbuckman]

This one has the double fridge, which will be a welcome addition as we will be using the unit alot this summer... not full timers as we have jobs and kids.... but this summer it is going to get a workout!

 

[chiefneon]

Howdy!

We also just took delivery of our 4000 this week. We found out very quickly that your going to need at less a three step step ladder for reaching: the cables to secure the patio, placing pins in upper TH beds, cabinets in TH etc... We're moving from a 5er with lots of cabinets and storage space to the 4000 and having to do a lot of down sizing. The one thing we liked about the 4000 was the seating area in the livingroom and the large pantary in the kitchen. The other thing my wife did not notice was the small oven, and she loves to bake. Good news is we're slowly adjusting.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

 

[remoandiris]

We found out very quickly that your going to need at less a three step step ladder for reaching: the cables to secure the patio,

???????? What am I missing? Do you remove the cables when traveling? I don't do that and never had a problem.

 

[remoandiris]

This one has the double fridge, which will be a welcome addition as we will be using the unit alot this summer... not full timers as we have jobs and kids.... but this summer it is going to get a workout!

These are the things you have to balance. My unit will be getting used for 4 months straight this summer. 1 month traveling, 2 months stationary then 1 month traveling back. For us, the storage is more important than going to the store every 7 days versus every 10 days for the bigger fridge.

Don't worry, you'll make the best out of whatever options you choose.

 

[chiefneon]

???????? What am I missing? Do you remove the cables when traveling? I don't do that and never had a problem.

Howdy!

When we did the walk through the tech advised to detact the cables and store them in the floor hatch just inside the ramp door. Thats all I have to go by.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

 

[DocFather]

???????? What am i missing? Do you remove the cables when traveling? I don't do that and never had a problem.

ditto!

 

[alex00]

Chief,
There was no mention on my walk through of removing the cables each time. They fold up and out of the way when closing. I'd imagine removing them each time I opened and closed the door would get mighty old, mighty fast. I may follow up with Heartland, but I thought I remember someone from the factory posting about not needing to remove them. But you're right about the bunk pins. Even at my height, I'm on my tip toes getting the rear bunk pin in.

Howdy!

When we did the walk through the tech advised to detact the cables and store them in the floor hatch just inside the ramp door. Thats all I have to go by.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

 

[oscar]

I lace the cables through the handle of the opposite sliding door in the three season wall, creating a big "X". It secures the cables, and keeps the sliders closed as the little latch on same is a joke.

 

[chiefneon]

Howdy!

So you folks with the rear patio ramp are saying that you leave the cable attached to the top portion of the door and detach the lower ramp portion. Then just lay the cables inside the ramp when closing it up. Or as oscar stated put them through the door handles.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

 

[rjwarre]

Had our 4000 for a year now. Spent 3 months in Az this winter. For storage in the kitchen we have added 170 degree hinges to the cabinet door above the counter, on the right of the micro wave, original hinges only opened to 90 degrees, a real head banger. Makes access a lot easier. Also going to use the upper bunk in the kitchen for storage. During our stay in Az. we removed the lattice work and used a 2 step ladder to access plastic bins. Planning to add metal basket pull out drawers in that area with doors that match the woodwork in the coach. That will add plenty of storage in the kitchen. Cables for the rear patio ramp stay attached. No troubles so far. Bath storage, We are able to store towels in the cabinet on the left side under the sink. We have the vessel bowl sink. Good luck with your decision. We really enjoy ours.

 

[oscar]

Howdy!

So you folks with the rear patio ramp are saying that you leave the cable attached to the top portion of the door and detach the lower ramp portion. Then just lay the cables inside the ramp when closing it up. Or as oscar stated put them through the door handles.

"Happy Trails"
Chiefneon

That seems to be the consensus.

 

[remoandiris]

So you folks with the rear patio ramp are saying that you leave the cable attached to the top portion of the door and detach the lower ramp portion.

No. I leave he cables attached top and bottom. Only once in a while do I have to tuck a cable in when closing the ramp. The vast majority of the time the cables fold in on their own. When I arrive at the next CG, I just open the door.

Maybe I should leave the bottom detached. Then I wouldn't have to detach them to drop the door and pull my gear out at the next CG. I use a twist tie to keep the doors closed.

 

[iowaone]

Ditto
we always leave top and bottom attached unless need to lower all the way. After 12 months and many many moves works fine.

 

[kfisher43]

Hi All - We just got our new 2015 4000, the solution for the cables we did on the ramp was to use 2 bungy cords that pulled them together when raising the ramp, this is what we did on our 3800, worked great.

 

[scottyb]

I always leave the cables unattached to the ramp and just routinely lay them in their slot so as not to impede the ramp door when it closes. Seems like they tend to get in the way more when attached than when not. If I re-attach them to the ramp, I just have to unhook them again when I arrive at the next destination, to unload the Mule.