campground power

I have a 30 amp surge protector for my Mallard 210rb. Do I need to get a 50 amp to 30 amp surge protector also? Do most campsites have 30 amp plug ins?
 
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NYSUPstater

Well-known member
Most CG's have 30amp, so your fine. However, you may encounter loose outlets cuz most RV's are 30 amp so that plug gets used a lot,
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Re: "Most CG's have 30amp, so your fine. However, you may encounter loose outlets cuz most RV's are 30 amp so that plug gets used a lot,"

The problem making so many campground 30 amp outlet sockets unreliable, and even DESTRUCTIVE to YOUR shore power 30 amp male plug, is that many, many RVers are unaware of the metal contact destructive arc pitting that comes from plugging in/unplugging your RV with loads switched ON (RV mains breakers ON) and the park's space breaker ON. These arcing events on the park's outlet sockets are CUMALATIVE, cause heating of the male and female connector deteriorated contacts under the up to 30 amps of constant load (your toaster only uses about 8 amps); this heating causes further metal corrosion of the male and female contacts until the connection quits and/or the plastic parts of the connectors literally melt. I have had a BRAND NEW 30 amp plug unknowingly plugged into a deteriorated park 30 amp outlet socket, deteriorate and fail OVERNIGHT. (I carry a spare 30 amp male RV plug with me).

What every RVer should do to minimize these problems is:
Upon space departure
1. Turn OFF the mains breaker on the RV AC panel when no further AC power (including converter/battery charger) is needed (all landing gear movements, slide movements, stabilizer movements, air compressor needs DONE).
2. Turn OFF the park outlet circuit breaker/switch.
3. Stow shore power cord.

Upon Space Arrival
1. Connect Shore power cord to RV.
2. Check that the park space circuit breaker/switch is OFF. Plug in RV shore power cord to the park space outlet socket. Turn ON the park space power circuit breaker/switch.
3. Go to the RV's AC power circuit breaker panel and turn on the mains breakers.
4. Then do your unhitching, front rear leveling, rear stabilizers, etc.) arrival setup jobs. Having your AC shorepower ON, and your converter/charger supplying up to 60 amps of DC current to your battery's capacity, will help with all of those high amperage 12 volt DC unhitching/setup jobs.

These procedures cause the AC power load spark to happen at the RV's mains breakers which are readily available at hardware stores, and the most accessible and easiest to replace in the AC shorepower connections path. I also use Cramolyn Caig DeOxIt spray on every accessible metal electrical contacts point in the chain as I hook up.

This is something GOOD reducing electrical problems you can do for yourself and the RVers to follow you in that RV space.

BTW, these recommendations also apply to 50 amp RV service connections.
 

travelin2

Pennsylvania Chapter Leaders-retired
Re: "Most CG's have 30amp, so your fine. However, you may encounter loose outlets cuz most RV's are 30 amp so that plug gets used a lot,"

The problem making so many campground 30 amp outlet sockets unreliable, and even DESTRUCTIVE to YOUR shore power 30 amp male plug, is that many, many RVers are unaware of the metal contact destructive arc pitting that comes from plugging in/unplugging your RV with loads switched ON (RV mains breakers ON) and the park's space breaker ON. These arcing events on the park's outlet sockets are CUMALATIVE, cause heating of the male and female connector deteriorated contacts under the up to 30 amps of constant load (your toaster only uses about 8 amps); this heating causes further metal corrosion of the male and female contacts until the connection quits and/or the plastic parts of the connectors literally melt. I have had a BRAND NEW 30 amp plug unknowingly plugged into a deteriorated park 30 amp outlet socket, deteriorate and fail OVERNIGHT. (I carry a spare 30 amp male RV plug with me).

What every RVer should do to minimize these problems is:
Upon space departure
1. Turn OFF the mains breaker on the RV AC panel when no further AC power (including converter/battery charger) is needed (all landing gear movements, slide movements, stabilizer movements, air compressor needs DONE).
2. Turn OFF the park outlet circuit breaker/switch.
3. Stow shore power cord.

Upon Space Arrival
1. Connect Shore power cord to RV.
2. Check that the park space circuit breaker/switch is OFF. Plug in RV shore power cord to the park space outlet socket. Turn ON the park space power circuit breaker/switch.
3. Go to the RV's AC power circuit breaker panel and turn on the mains breakers.
4. Then do your unhitching, front rear leveling, rear stabilizers, etc.) arrival setup jobs. Having your AC shorepower ON, and your converter/charger supplying up to 60 amps of DC current to your battery's capacity, will help with all of those high amperage 12 volt DC unhitching/setup jobs.

These procedures cause the AC power load spark to happen at the RV's mains breakers which are readily available at hardware stores, and the most accessible and easiest to replace in the AC shorepower connections path. I also use Cramolyn Caig DeOxIt spray on every accessible metal electrical contacts point in the chain as I hook up.

This is something GOOD reducing electrical problems you can do for yourself and the RVers to follow you in that RV space.

BTW, these recommendations also apply to 50 amp RV service connections.
That’s all dandy information but an unrealistic application, at least in our Bighorn.
And when I was younger I might be more inclined to recline to turn the house breaker on/off in the Bighorn

Best I do is kill the power at the pedestal
 
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