Check all of your wire nut connections when you can...

[BorgX]

Hopefully this will help someone else before it's too late...

I was camping this weekend and had the main cabin lights on... I was talking to my wife and the main lights just went out. All of the other lights were working (so I thought). While I was checking fuses, etc. the lights just magically came back on. I couldn't get them to fail again. Oh well, weird but ok, right? WRONG. The next morning... I turn the lights on, then after about 2 minutes, they turn off on their own. I'm thinking: ok... now I'm figuring this out. I turned every light and 12V thing I could find. Determined it was the main lights, outside awning/bug light, light over the sink, and the range hood light and fan. Everything else appeared to work. So, I assumed this was all one circuit and I was right. Checked the fuse, working. Checked the switch and bulbs, all good. Decided I was camping and had some lights so the heck with it... I would find it later on Sunday when I got home.

Once I had more time and the camper was at home, I found the problem after tracing the wire through the camper... it was a wire nut above the stove vent hood. Dropped the hood down and there are 3 wires that are joined there. Main feed, the vent hood, and then the main wire goes on to feed the over sink light and the main cabin lights as well as outside light. The nut was loose and was allowing poor contact. It had MELTED the wires and the wire nut. Really close to a fire in my 2011 21FBS! That would have been a lot of fun!!

I cut the wires back to remove the melted parts, soldered them, and put chrimp connector on them. Working great now.

As others have said, you better check EVERY wire nut you see and it is shocking to know that Heartland used them everywhere like that. My opinion is that wire nuts were made for stationary connections, not for campers or places vibration can occur...

Be safe out there!!

 

[Duramax1]

That was a great detection search. Glad you found the source of the problem

 

[Bob&Patty]

Over time I have removed every wire nut in the trailer. Wire nuts in a moving earthquake are useless.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

I always thought that wire nuts were for solid wire and the crimp on kind were for stranded wire.

 

[ncc1701e]

Wire nuts are correct to use on stranded wire if applied correctly guys. A few things to remember: 1) Wire nuts come in color coded sizes based on the wire size. 2) Wire nuts require the user to properly twist the connection tightly after "twisting" the wires first. 3) Wire nuts WILL loosen if not taped properly after application. After intalling a wire nut, a couple wraps of electrical tape in the same direction as used in applying the nut will keep the connection tight (generally). 4) If you do not plan to ever open the connection, use a crimped connection. However, remember that correct sizing of the crimped connection is equally important or you'll open yourself up to a hot connection and the same potential of a fire.

I retired after 40 years of heavy industrial electical work on both stationary and mobile equipment. Real secrect to either crimped or nutted connections is using the right size and good taping afterwards. I've seen more fires from crimped connections than any other because the turkey who applied the connection just used what ever connector he had in his tool box and it was the wrong size crimp.

In these "mobile earthquakes" as someone called them, a properly sized crimp and properly taped connection is a solid choice. But I have to admit, that in most cases on the mods I've done to lighting I've used wire nuts and taped them.

 

[rick_debbie_gallant]

Wire nuts are correct to use on stranded wire if applied correctly guys. A few things to remember: 1) Wire nuts come in color coded sizes based on the wire size. 2) Wire nuts require the user to properly twist the connection tightly after "twisting" the wires first. 3) Wire nuts WILL loosen if not taped properly after application. After intalling a wire nut, a couple wraps of electrical tape in the same direction as used in applying the nut will keep the connection tight (generally). 4) If you do not plan to ever open the connection, use a crimped connection. However, remember that correct sizing of the crimped connection is equally important or you'll open yourself up to a hot connection and the same potential of a fire.

I retired after 40 years of heavy industrial electical work on both stationary and mobile equipment. Real secrect to either crimped or nutted connections is using the right size and good taping afterwards. I've seen more fires from crimped connections than any other because the turkey who applied the connection just used what ever connector he had in his tool box and it was the wrong size crimp.

In these "mobile earthquakes" as someone called them, a properly sized crimp and properly taped connection is a solid choice. But I have to admit, that in most cases on the mods I've done to lighting I've used wire nuts and taped them.

I think one more precaution to take is in order. Make sure you use the proper crimping tool to match the size connector and wire. Dont just use a pair of pliers or side cutters to crimp the connection. I have witnessed such connections being used with the wrong took and they just dont plain hold the mustard or make the grade. Case in point: check out your cable connections for your televisions.