Cheezy Electric Landing Gear

[Skywrench]

We purchased a 2016 Edge 397 about a month & a half ago. We love most things about this unit except for the electric landing gear & rear stabilizing jacks. This is a big heavy trailer and they put some really weak landing gear on it from the factory. When we picked up the unit from the dealer, the trailer was on uneven ground and the guy helping us hook up to the trailer burned out the 20 amp fuse several times while using the landing gear trying to raise the trailer enough to get my truck under it. Since then, every time I use the landing gear, I don't hold the button for more than a few seconds if the trailer is resting on the landing gear. Even then I still burn out the fuse occasionally.

I'm looking to upgrade but am not too jazzed about spending $4000 - $5000 more. I've seen the 4 point manual Quadra system on their website for about $2200 but it says for small to medium sized coaches. Has anyone put one of these on a 40+ footer? I'm thinking just about anything would be better than what came installed from the factory.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

 

[jimtoo]

You might do some checking with the instructions... I think most all the front jacks use a 30 amp fuse or breaker and some even higher rated. The electric jacks have always been dependable, but a little slow.

Link to owners manuals.

Jim M

 

[JohnD]

We purchased a 2016 Edge 397 about a month & a half ago. We love most things about this unit except for the electric landing gear & rear stabilizing jacks. This is a big heavy trailer and they put some really weak landing gear on it from the factory. When we picked up the unit from the dealer, the trailer was on uneven ground and the guy helping us hook up to the trailer burned out the 20 amp fuse several times while using the landing gear trying to raise the trailer enough to get my truck under it. Since then, every time I use the landing gear, I don't hold the button for more than a few seconds if the trailer is resting on the landing gear. Even then I still burn out the fuse occasionally.

I'm looking to upgrade but am not too jazzed about spending $4000 - $5000 more. I've seen the 4 point manual Quadra system on their website for about $2200 but it says for small to medium sized coaches. Has anyone put one of these on a 40+ footer? I'm thinking just about anything would be better than what came installed from the factory.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

Our 2015 Heartland Prowler burns out the fuse if you run the landing gear all the way out or all the way in.

I started a topic thread about it when we had our Prowler out on it's maiden voyage a couple of months back and was told by many here that this is standard procedure and to not run the landing gear all the way in or all the way out.

So I have marked the landing gear so that I can stop it before it gets to either end of the run.

So far I haven't blown a fuse since . . . but I have a whole box of them just in case!

Don't bother trying to hand crank the landing gear . . . I cranked it for what seemed to be an hour and the landing gear barely moved an inch.

 

[Gaffer]

The landing gear will only move so far up or down. Learn where these limits are (up/retract) should be obvious if you look at it because you can see where it bottoms out. If you continue to push the switch past the hard stop limits you will blow a fuse every time. That is unless of course you snap the shear pin. This is not much different than running the black tank rinse while doing other things and finding water pouring out the vent pipe through the roof and or up through the toilet. There are things you need to pay attention to.

 

[Bob&Patty]

Do as JohnD suggested. The way to prevent this from happening. First, mark the main (outer) tubes with some thing so your not retracting or extending to the end of the travel. Second, extended the main tubes about a foot and a 1/2 and pull the pins and let the inside legs drop to what ever height you need to unhook. You can level the front to back after you unhook. You can then raise the trailer to hook up and not blow the fuse. After you hook up, raise the the main legs to the mark and then pull the pins and push up the inside legs. This has always worked for me. The rear stabilizers are NOT for lifting the rear of the trailer. If you need to raise the rear.. use wood blocks and the same with the front. 4X10's work real well, and I carry 4 of them just in case.BTW, I hope you do not have a lifted truck, that could cause problems.

 

[wdk450]

Our 2015 Heartland Prowler burns out the fuse if you run the landing gear all the way out or all the way in.

. . . . . .

Don't bother trying to hand crank the landing gear . . . I cranked it for what seemed to be an hour and the landing gear barely moved an inch.

View attachment 39138 View attachment 39139

They make a drill socket adapter to mate with the rod the hand crank normally fits on. A lot faster than hand cranking.

http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Atwood/AT85385.html

 

[Matts1122]

I have a 2015 edge 357 with the same landing gear it sounds like. I haven't had any problems with mine so far.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bones]

We purchased a 2016 Edge 397 about a month & a half ago. We love most things about this unit except for the electric landing gear & rear stabilizing jacks. This is a big heavy trailer and they put some really weak landing gear on it from the factory. When we picked up the unit from the dealer, the trailer was on uneven ground and the guy helping us hook up to the trailer burned out the 20 amp fuse several times while using the landing gear trying to raise the trailer enough to get my truck under it. Since then, every time I use the landing gear, I don't hold the button for more than a few seconds if the trailer is resting on the landing gear. Even then I still burn out the fuse occasionally.

I'm looking to upgrade but am not too jazzed about spending $4000 - $5000 more. I've seen the 4 point manual Quadra system on their website for about $2200 but it says for small to medium sized coaches. Has anyone put one of these on a 40+ footer? I'm thinking just about anything would be better than what came installed from the factory.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

I think everyone has good suggestions. If you want to upgrade in the future don't spend too much money on your current set up and then save to add the level up hydraulics to your RV. I think that will cost somewhere around 4k maybe less.

 

[GOTTOYS]

We purchased a 2016 Edge 397 about a month & a half ago. We love most things about this unit except for the electric landing gear & rear stabilizing jacks. This is a big heavy trailer and they put some really weak landing gear on it from the factory. When we picked up the unit from the dealer, the trailer was on uneven ground and the guy helping us hook up to the trailer burned out the 20 amp fuse several times while using the landing gear trying to raise the trailer enough to get my truck under it. Since then, every time I use the landing gear, I don't hold the button for more than a few seconds if the trailer is resting on the landing gear. Even then I still burn out the fuse occasionally.

I'm looking to upgrade but am not too jazzed about spending $4000 - $5000 more. I've seen the 4 point manual Quadra system on their website for about $2200 but it says for small to medium sized coaches. Has anyone put one of these on a 40+ footer? I'm thinking just about anything would be better than what came installed from the factory.

Thanks in advance.
Dave

My trailer has a 30 amp fuse not a 20 amp. Never had a problem blowing it while using them but I did blow a couple when i didn't shut it off soon enough when raising them up. I think they may have put too small a fuse in yours. I changed mine over to a 30 amp circuit breaker that resets itself after it cools down...Don

 

[JohnD]

My trailer has a 30 amp fuse not a 20 amp. Never had a problem blowing it while using them but I did blow a couple when i didn't shut it off soon enough when raising them up. I think they may have put too small a fuse in yours. I changed mine over to a 30 amp circuit breaker that resets itself after it cools down...Don

Mine takes the 50 amp fuse (green one) . . . still blows them if you run the landing gear all the way in or out.

 

[Skywrench]

Thanks for all the input. I'll try a 30 amp fuse and see if it helps. I still dream of upgrading to something that has the capability of side to side leveling (without the need for blocks). When I try to lift the trailer off my truck (not lifted), you can hear the motor groan as soon as the full weight of the trailer is on. It sounds like the motor is about to stall out. I worry about burning out an electric motor while on the road somewhere and having to try to crank for an hour or two just to the trailer off/on the truck.

 

[Bones]

Thanks for all the input. I'll try a 30 amp fuse and see if it helps. I still dream of upgrading to something that has the capability of side to side leveling (without the need for blocks). When I try to lift the trailer off my truck (not lifted), you can hear the motor groan as soon as the full weight of the trailer is on. It sounds like the motor is about to stall out. I worry about burning out an electric motor while on the road somewhere and having to try to crank for an hour or two just to the trailer off/on the truck.

I have the same issue with mine so you are not alone. I am considering adding hydraulics to my RV in stages. HWH shows front landing gear that appear to use the same type of mounting system as your current set up and they are hydraulic. I may have this as my winter investigation project to see if I can buy them and install them. I would imagine that it would be a lot cheaper that way. You would end up with hydraulic in the front which would move considerable faster. Here is the Link to the PDF on their front landing gear. This would alleviate a lot of concerns people have with the electric but hopefully not cost any where near the price of a full system. My landing gear were damaged and supposedly replaced but I'm not too sure. They show signs of being rebuilt and they appear to be tearing themselves up when I use them, that's why I am looking into replacement early for me. I just don't trust them or believe the dealer.

 

[JohnD]

When I try to lift the trailer off my truck (not lifted), you can hear the motor groan as soon as the full weight of the trailer is on. It sounds like the motor is about to stall out. I worry about burning out an electric motor while on the road somewhere and having to try to crank for an hour or two just to the trailer off/on the truck.

Are you running them off of battery power?

I generally plug the trailer in to shore power before I run the landing gear and it seems to run faster that way.

Same with the slides . . .

 

[caissiel]

It's a $5 fix. The design of the landing gear is meant to be installed properly.
The centering plate is loose in the tube (for ease of assembly) and can move enough to create misalignment of the gear and pinion.
Heartland like others does not assemble the post with a clamp to hold the plate on center.
I made 2 clamps for mine and I can operate the landing gear easily using the crank. Even lift the truck rear if I wanted to.
It's my 3rd unit that needed the repair.
The test is to use the hand crank and if hard to lift just add the clamps.
I have pics in my library. Some have simply used a heavy hose clamp.

 

[justafordguy]

It's a $5 fix. The design of the landing gear is meant to be installed properly.
The centering plate is loose in the tube (for ease of assembly) and can move enough to create misalignment of the gear and pinion.
Heartland like others does not assemble the post with a clamp to hold the plate on center.
I made 2 clamps for mine and I can operate the landing gear easily using the crank. Even lift the truck rear if I wanted to.
It's my 3rd unit that needed the repair.
The test is to use the hand crank and if hard to lift just add the clamps.
I have pics in my library. Some have simply used a heavy hose clamp.

This sounds like something I need to do for sure. I would love to see how you made and installed the clamps.

 

[wdk450]

You know, there are upgrade kits out there to move you from 1 motor driving both legs to 2 motors, each individually driving a leg. This would also address the leveling issue you talk about.
Before buying any other brand of landing gear besides the installed Venture brand (they are all pretty similar) talk to the manufacturer about the positioning of the swage protrusions on the legs that actually support the trailer frame weight and the welded in clamps to see if they are compatible. Venture will sell you a new driven leg, gear reduction and motor, and switch which all adds up.

http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=5th-Wheel-Landing-Gear&furl=-vw-1

 

[Bones]

You know, there are upgrade kits out there to move you from 1 motor driving both legs to 2 motors, each individually driving a leg. This would also address the leveling issue you talk about.
Before buying any other brand of landing gear besides the installed Venture brand (they are all pretty similar) talk to the manufacturer about the positioning of the swage protrusions on the legs that actually support the trailer frame weight and the welded in clamps to see if they are compatible. Venture will sell you a new driven leg, gear reduction and motor, and switch which all adds up.

http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=5th-Wheel-Landing-Gear&furl=-vw-1

I like the bulldog set up I would go with the 10k set up though

 

[Skywrench]

Are you running them off of battery power?

I generally plug the trailer in to shore power before I run the landing gear and it seems to run faster that way.

Same with the slides . . .

I've tried it with shore power and while the trailer wiring was still attached to the truck (shore power disconnected). It sounded about the same.

- - - Updated - - -

It's a $5 fix. The design of the landing gear is meant to be installed properly.
The centering plate is loose in the tube (for ease of assembly) and can move enough to create misalignment of the gear and pinion.
Heartland like others does not assemble the post with a clamp to hold the plate on center.
I made 2 clamps for mine and I can operate the landing gear easily using the crank. Even lift the truck rear if I wanted to.
It's my 3rd unit that needed the repair.
The test is to use the hand crank and if hard to lift just add the clamps.
I have pics in my library. Some have simply used a heavy hose clamp.

Thanks for the info, I'll study your pics and see if I can improve my current setup until I can get a leveling system.

 

[wdk450]

I did a little more online research on the dual motor setup. At minimum you will need a lead (motor driven) leg shaft and gear set to convert the off door side leg to a lead leg (the only difference is the shaft) - Lippert 5th Wheel Landing GearLead Leg Gear Kit #146059 (available on E-Bay (

eBay item number: ​

251867117500)

​

for about $25; a motor,gear drive, wiring and switch assembly - 5th Wheel Landing Gear Motor Landing Gear and Harness, also available on E-Bay (

eBay item number: ​

1817160451470) $140.

Sorry about the text formatting. I am fighting the forum software after doing cut and pastes from the E-Bay listings.

I also did the hose clamps on the centering plates mod that Cassiel recommended on my single motor unit.

 

[AKDallBH]

Made this change to our 3670RL this past year. Had a problem with the offside leg not being totally aligned and binding up. Even at the best of times, the lifting was anemic. You do need to swap out the offside leg with a new leg, but boy what an improvement it makes!