Converter Causing Electrical Issues

I currently own a 2009 Heartland Bighorn 3385rl fifth wheel that I use as my primary residence. My husband and I ended up having to replace the power inverter 3 years ago because it was overcharging the batteries and causing multiple electrical issues. It was suspected that it had gone bad due to the inverter getting wet. Most likely caused by an overflowing toilet. Now I'm no genius when it comes to any kind of electricity issues, but to me it seems like Heartland made a poor decision when they decided to place the inverter along with most of the electrical components under the bathroom. Call it a major design flaw if you will. Any who, we recently had an issue with the toilet overflowing after the park we live in full time had shut off the water to the park to do some kind of repairs, however for some reason whenever they turn it back on the toilet will begin to fill on its own and therefore causing it to overflow therefore soaking the inverter once again. Now we have had some pretty significant issues with our 12 volt system and even the 110 electrical outlets. When the inverter is plugged in, I received voltage readings of 170 volts when using a voltmeter to check the power outlets. This has caused the 12v bulbs in the bedroom to overheat and even begin to melt. Once I disconnected the inverter and batteries, my readings return to the normal range. My problem is however that once the inverter and batteries are disconnected, the units refrigerator is not working on regular ac power. Why is this and how can I get the refrigerator to work without the inverter? Please tell me this is possible for me to do. Just temporarily until I can replace the power inverter. Please help!
 
Last edited:

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Your refrigerator needs 12 volts DC to operate.
So, either a new inverter or a battery charger as a temporary 12 volt supply will do.

Peace
Dave
 

wdk450

Well-known member
When I replaced my Progressive 9260 smart battery charger/converter in the same spot where the previous one had gotten soaked by a broken black tank flush atmospheric breaker (check) valve located ABOVE the charger (contrary to B&B Molders black tank flush system installation instructions), I built an A-frame style peaked roof for the charger out of sheet metal to protect it from future plumbing deluges, and attached it to the charger with velcro and adhesive.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
When I replaced my Progressive 9260 smart battery charger/converter in the same spot where the previous one had gotten soaked by a broken black tank flush atmospheric breaker (check) valve located ABOVE the charger (contrary to B&B Molders black tank flush system installation instructions), I built an A-frame style peaked roof for the charger out of sheet metal to protect it from future plumbing deluges, and attached it to the charger with velcro and adhesive.

When we had our 3670, I moved it and the surge suppressor to the side of the bedroom step frame based on others postings about flooded electrical from that PoC anti-siphon valve. When it failed, the devices were high and dry, so I only had to mop up and run a dehumidifier for a while to dry things out.
Only good thing is that valve wasn’t mounted behind the shower or the furnace would have drowned.

Yep, still checking posts from time to time.


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