Converter Location HELP PLEASE !

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
You can test the Converter (inverters are the opposite, changing 12V DC into 120V AC) yourself by measuring the voltage at the converter wires while the battery cutoff switch is OFF. I'd check it with everything electrical at rest (to the extent possible), and again while putting a load on the converter - running the furnace for example. Again, check for the ground wire that should be attached to the converter and to frame ground.

I'd be surprised if CW is prepared to test the output other than to read the voltage, without a load. It's possible that it might deliver good voltage output until you load it up. A new Progressive Dynamics PD9280 runs about $280 incl shipping, online.


Dan thanks again, and I suspect that the converter is suspect and I will do more testing in the morning and probably order one as a spare or a replacement anyway.

I currently have a PD 9260CV installed and you refer to a PD9280 (80amp), should I purchase that unit.

What I would like to do is install 4 batteries in Parallel rather than the 2 that I currently have.

Thanks again for all of the assistance
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Dan thanks again, and I suspect that the converter is suspect and I will do more testing in the morning and probably order one as a spare or a replacement anyway.

I currently have a PD 9260CV installed and you refer to a PD9280 (80amp), should I purchase that unit.

What I would like to do is install 4 batteries in Parallel rather than the 2 that I currently have.

Thanks again for all of the assistance
The Progressive Dynamics 9200 models are pretty much the same except for power output. The 9280 puts out as much as 80 amps at 12V, or 960 watts. The 9260 puts out 60 amps or 720 watts. I think most of the large Landmarks, Bighorns, and Big Country trailers have the 9280.
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Ok after doing the testing of the converter based on this youtube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smKbkC0AG6g it appears the the converter is dead, for once I turn off the circuit switch in the battery compartment and disconnect the negative lead to the converter and leaving the power connects, I am expecting to get around 13.3 v +- .3v and I get 0 volts.

I will see how quickly I can get a replacement unit.

Thanks for all of the assistance.

Gavin Slabbert
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Ok as I have been testing I have found some stuff out but not what I was expecting, now I am clueless, but my guess is that the converter - Inverter is bad.

I thought that I hd dead batteries so before any further diagnoses I took them to Autozone, had them charged and tested, and they passede all tests and were fully charged when i collected them
I checked the plug where the inverter is powered and I got 113v so power is good to there.
I checked the 3 fuses on the inverter, they are good
I tested the positive and negative coming out of the inverter and it is giving me 16.3v
I tested the power at the points where the power gets to the battery cabin and it is 16.3v
I checked the battery terminals and I received 15.8v across the terminals.
I still have a low DC reading
When I press my battery test button on the panel, all 4 lights light up with the charger connected.
When I connect the battery charger the Low DC lights go off

As far as the Inverter is concerned, the fan is not running - spinning, and I am not sure if it should be.

The inverter is likely not the factory spec unit as it has a hand written price sticker of $289.95 on it.

Gavin

Anything over 13.8V is a bad converter. It will fry, over time, your LED awning lights, and anything else that cannot take the over voltage. My fridge would not get colder than 50 degrees, but the freezers were still frozen. I thought I had a fridge problem, but it turned out to be the converter. If you contact the converter manufacture, I assume Progressive, they will confirm that the converter is bad. They will also inform you that the cause was that it got soaked with water. Been there and done that. Most Camping Worlds will carry your converter model. I also sent mine back to the manufacture. So now I have a spare. By the way, my service bay is and has always been dry as a bone.

I just read your last post. Looks like your converter finally quit completely. Like I said, Camping World does carry them and that is how I replaced mine. Call first to make sure it is in stock. They seem to only stock one at a time. Then I got an exchange unit at reduced cost from the manufacture. That is when they said quote "it was caused by getting soaked by water"! Really!! Service area always dry as a bone!
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
You can also find a Converter on Amazon, and with possibly with Prime shipping have it in a couple days.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

CoveredWagon

Well-known member
When you are speaking of checking 3 fuses are you speaking of the 2 on the converter and 1 in the fuse panel ?
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Looks like it depends on the model of Progressive Dynamics converters, as to how many fuses it has. The 45 amp model has 2 and the 60 and 80 (9280) amp models have 3.
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CoveredWagon

Well-known member
Looks like it depends on the model of Progressive Dynamics converters, as to how many fuses it has. The 45 amp model has 2 and the 60 and 80 (9280) amp models have 3.
View attachment 55968

Thanks Jim. I could imagine 2 one for pos + and one for neg -, but was at a loss for the third. I have no problem, but like to be ready for anything. I’ll be at the Rv today so I’ll take a peek.
 

porthole

Retired
Anything over 13.8V is a bad converter.


Why do you say that?

In order to properly charge a 12 volt lead acid battery it needs to be charged to at least 14.2 volts to be considered fully charged. So that requires a charge capability of at least 14.2-14.4 volts with some current behind it to actually make the push.


If I needed a converter, amazon or ebay would be my choice before I shop somewhere where the CEO doesn't want our business.

even a small shop RV facility would e a better choice if they had it in stock.

- - - Updated - - -

Looks like it depends on the model of Progressive Dynamics converters, as to how many fuses it has. The 45 amp model has 2 and the 60 and 80 (9280) amp models have 3.
View attachment 55968


The fuses on the Progressive converters are used for reverse polarity protection only.

Shorts or over current conditions are protected internally by the electronics and are automatic.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, a properly charged 12 volt lead acid automotive style battery will be between 12.6 and 13.2 volts when fully charged and at rest.
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
I called Progressive Dynamics this morning as I could not find anyone in my area (Chatanooga, or in Knoxville which is my next destination) that had a unit in stock, and the earliest that I could get a replacement part from Camping World was 10 days, yeah fantastic service from them. (scarcasm).

I came to find out that the unit comes with a 1 year warranty and a 10 year reduced cost replacement (verified by serial Number) and that they (Progressive Dynamics) will ship the same day.

The cost to replace my PD9260 through them was $110.00 plus $25.00 shipping with a 3 day guarantee.

They did ask me to pull the unit and test it without any load which did not change any of the results and showed that it had failed.

I also spoke to the tech guys as I wanted to upgrade to a 9280, but they said that the unit required a 20 amp circuit and I only have a 15 amp circuit. They also wanted to know how long the cable run was from where the unit was located to the battery box. They also stated that RV manufacturers use the bare minim in wire gauge and that I would likely have to upgrade the wiring to handle the additional 20 amps (I seriously doubt that this is in fact real), and it sounded more like a cya to me.

Being in an RV park and being on the road I opted to replace my unit with another 9260C.

Hope that this thread has been helpful to others, and it certainly has been mot helpful to me.

Thanks again everyone ...
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Why do you say that?

In order to properly charge a 12 volt lead acid battery it needs to be charged to at least 14.2 volts to be considered fully charged. So that requires a charge capability of at least 14.2-14.4 volts with some current behind it to actually make the push.


If I needed a converter, amazon or ebay would be my choice before I shop somewhere where the CEO doesn't want our business.

even a small shop RV facility would e a better choice if they had it in stock.

- - - Updated - - -



The fuses on the Progressive converters are used for reverse polarity protection only.

Shorts or over current conditions are protected internally by the electronics and are automatic.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, a properly charged 12 volt lead acid automotive style battery will be between 12.6 and 13.2 volts when fully charged and at rest.

Told by Progressive when I contacted them.
 

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
I called Progressive Dynamics this morning as I could not find anyone in my area (Chatanooga, or in Knoxville which is my next destination) that had a unit in stock, and the earliest that I could get a replacement part from Camping World was 10 days, yeah fantastic service from them. (scarcasm).

I came to find out that the unit comes with a 1 year warranty and a 10 year reduced cost replacement (verified by serial Number) and that they (Progressive Dynamics) will ship the same day.

The cost to replace my PD9260 through them was $110.00 plus $25.00 shipping with a 3 day guarantee.

They did ask me to pull the unit and test it without any load which did not change any of the results and showed that it had failed.

I also spoke to the tech guys as I wanted to upgrade to a 9280, but they said that the unit required a 20 amp circuit and I only have a 15 amp circuit. They also wanted to know how long the cable run was from where the unit was located to the battery box. They also stated that RV manufacturers use the bare minim in wire gauge and that I would likely have to upgrade the wiring to handle the additional 20 amps (I seriously doubt that this is in fact real), and it sounded more like a cya to me.

Being in an RV park and being on the road I opted to replace my unit with another 9260C.

Hope that this thread has been helpful to others, and it certainly has been mot helpful to me.

Thanks again everyone ...

 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member

gslabbert5119

Well-known member
Progressive Dynamics trouble shooting guide states 13.6V +/-3%. In the guide the range is 10.5 - 14V. It should be below 14V. As stated by a Progressive tech, the maximum voltage should never be above 13.875V.

View attachment 55984

I agree with this except if you have a Charge Wizard which can give a reading from 13.2 - 14.4v according to the PD tech as well as the video that I posted in the link somewhere
 

porthole

Retired
Progressive Dynamics trouble shooting guide states 13.6V +/-3%. In the guide the range is 10.5 - 14V. It should be below 14V. As stated by a Progressive tech, the maximum voltage should never be above 13.875V.

View attachment 55984

Yeah, I get all that and what they are doing. And keeping in mind that the converter is also supplying all of the RV's DC needs.

Doesn't change the physics of a 12 volt lead acid battery needing 14.2-14.4 volts to be charged fully properly.
And the 10.5 low range is not valid for charging batteries.

A 12 volt battery is considered 100% discharged at 11.9 volts (12 volt batteries are really an assembly of 6 - 2.1 volt cells in series, 100% charged at 12.6-12.7 volts)


My converter routinely displays a charge voltage after battery only usage of 14.2 - 14.4 volts.
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Yeah, I get all that and what they are doing. And keeping in mind that the converter is also supplying all of the RV's DC needs.

Doesn't change the physics of a 12 volt lead acid battery needing 14.2-14.4 volts to be charged fully properly.
And the 10.5 low range is not valid for charging batteries.

A 12 volt battery is considered 100% discharged at 11.9 volts (12 volt batteries are really an assembly of 6 - 2.1 volt cells in series, 100% charged at 12.6-12.7 volts)


My converter routinely displays a charge voltage after battery only usage of 14.2 - 14.4 volts.

Perhaps the problem is that he is/was checking his converter and not looking at a good converter with charged batteries. The output should be in the range stated disconnected form the battery(s). When disconnected, mine sits at 13.67V.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I've been hesitating to jump into this discussion, but let me just point out that the Progressive Dynamics PD9280 documentation shows 4 modes, including a Boost Mode where the output rises to 14.4V DC.

On the battery side, based on what I recall reading in my electrical circuits text, once you stop charging the battery, and give it a few minutes to settle, the voltage reading for a fully charged battery would be a nominal 12.6V DC.

So generally I expect that the output of the Power Converter, measured at the battery, would be between 13.2 and 13.6V DC most of the time. But if the battery became discharged for some reason, or was not in good condition, the converter would probably shift to boost mode where you would measure 14.4V DC.

Also, when connected to the tow vehicle, with engine running, you might also see voltage at the trailer battery that reflects the output of the tow vehicle alternator. Probably around 14.0V DC or perhaps a bit higher.

13.8V DC as output of the converter is suspicious to me, as the documentation doesn't show that it's intended to produce that output level in any of its modes.
 
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