Converter Location HELP PLEASE !

[porthole]

A 12 volt battery fully charged by what is now known as the bulk method (14.4 volts) should sit 10-12 hours for the surface charge to dissipate before testing for nominal voltage - or place a predetermined load on the battery for a short period. We used to turn on the headlights for about 2 minutes.

Something else to consider, some smart chargers will not charge a battery with a voltage below a certain threshold, such as 6 volts.
Since the OP mentioned he had a reading of 5 something, this may be an issue as well.

Perplexed a bit by the comments regarding Progressive's statement of "if it is over 13.6 volts it is bad I posted the following question to the Progressive tech support group.

Subject: PD 9260 specs

Message:
Hello,

The specs for the PD9260 list the following:
Output: 13.6 VDC, 60 Amps

How will an output of only 13.6 volts properly charge a 12 volt lead acid automotive style battery, when most recommendations say that a minimum of 14.2 – 14.4 volts are needed to initially bulk charge?

Response:
Because the PD9200 has the Charge Wizard built into it.

13.2 storage
13.6 regular
14.4 bulk

The above link and sub link jumps to this:

Our patented Charge Wizard 4-stage system uses microprocessor technology to add intelligent charging capability. It constantly monitors the RV battery and automatically adjusts the converter output voltage based on the battery’s charge status – designed to eliminate battery over & under charging problems associated with most other battery chargers and provide rapid yet safe battery recharging after dry camping. View the literature.
The Charge Wizard constantly monitors battery voltage and battery usage then selects one of the following four operating modes to properly charge and maintain the battery.
BOOST Mode 14.4 Volts – Rapidly brings the RV battery up to 90% of full charge.
NORMAL Mode 13.6 Volts – Safely completes the charge.
STORAGE Mode 13.2 Volts – Maintains charge with minimal gassing or water loss.
EQUALIZATION Mode 14.4 Volts – Every 21 hours for a period of 15 minutes prevents battery stratification & sulfation – the leading cause of battery failure.

 

[gslabbert5119]

My new Converter arrived from Progressive Dynamics today, and I tested it prior to the install and I had 13.35v coming out of the Converter.
I installed it inside 5 minutes and everything is up and running and working perfectly.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread and saved us from freezing.

Gavin

 

[Bobs-gal]

Anything over 13.8V is a bad converter. It will fry, over time, your LED awning lights, and anything else that cannot take the over voltage. My fridge would not get colder than 50 degrees, but the freezers were still frozen. I thought I had a fridge problem, but it turned out to be the converter. If you contact the converter manufacture, I assume Progressive, they will confirm that the converter is bad. They will also inform you that the cause was that it got soaked with water. Been there and done that. Most Camping Worlds will carry your converter model. I also sent mine back to the manufacture. So now I have a spare. By the way, my service bay is and has always been dry as a bone.

I just read your last post. Looks like your converter finally quit completely. Like I said, Camping World does carry them and that is how I replaced mine. Call first to make sure it is in stock. They seem to only stock one at a time. Then I got an exchange unit at reduced cost from the manufacture. That is when they said quote "it was caused by getting soaked by water"! Really!! Service area always dry as a bone!

Sorry for resurrecting this thread but curious if your fridge issues resolved when you replaced your converter? We are in a similar situation.