Cyclone CL351 out of level by 6" to 9" front to back while towing.
- Thread starter jbird1234
- Start date
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Is this a new phenomenon, or has it always been out of level? Did you change your tow vehicle to a new one, possibly with a higher cargo bed? Is your truck hitch adjustable (even the basic ones have some vertical adjustment). Can you move the position of the pinbox on the trailer? Have you changed what you're hauling in the back of the rig, adding more weight to the rear end? Take a close look at the suspension on the trailer to be sure it's not damaged.
the problem has always existed but my last trip was the first time that it had become problematic. The axles are, at this point, under the leaf springs. I will have to take it in to see if perhaps a stronger or larger leaf spring is available.
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danemayer
Well-known member
Can you post a picture of the axles and leaf springs.
Gary521
Well-known member
If your trailer is nose high while pulling, I fail to see how changing the springs will do anything. As someone has already pointed out, there are adjustments to the hitch to raise and lower it and there are adjustments in the pinbox to do the same. Have you already looked at these adjustments? Is your truck raised? Putting airbags or changing the springs sounds like a band aid and not fixing the real cause. I agree that a high nose will put a larger load on the rear axle and tires.
Shortest Straw
Caught In A Mosh
Those springs look flat to me. I do not think anyone would recommend that you tow your rig nose high. It puts to much stress on your axles. Adding 4 inches of lift to your trailer will cause a whole different level of issues. Is your pick up lifted?
jerryjay11
Well-known member
I would have to agree. That front axle looks flatter than the rear which has more bow to it.
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
It maybe just the angle of the photo, but don't the hangers look bent inward? How are the axles? Are they flat, curved up from the center, or curved downward? They should be curved up and the hangers should be perpendicular to the frame.
I run nose high, but have no problems with the fifth wheel. I have been weighed twice and the front and rear axles are within 100 lbs of each other.
I run nose high, but have no problems with the fifth wheel. I have been weighed twice and the front and rear axles are within 100 lbs of each other.
WillyBill
Well-known member
First off, replace the spring pins, bushings, and shackles with MorRyde's HD Wet bolt Kit - $ 150 approx. for a two axle trailer and no more than a Saturday project for a DIY person. I can see from picture that the bushings are gone in the spring eyes and therefore they are most likely worn out in the Easy Flex Equalizers as well - the bushings for these and new bolts are in the wet bolt kit like I suggested above. This will not completely level up the trailer but will help a lot. It will also help stabilize it going down the road. While it's in the air and axles hanging you can see if the springs are shot - they are not expensive and easy to add to the job if you are already up and hanging. I your axles are not 8000 lb, then change to 8000 springs at the same time if you have already addressed the questions asked earlier RE: pin box adjustment, etc.
Don't ask me how I know!!!
Make sure to weigh it when ready for a trip - I bet you are running heavier than you think.
WB
Don't ask me how I know!!!
Make sure to weigh it when ready for a trip - I bet you are running heavier than you think.
WB
I will try this, including new 8,000 springs. thanks. BTW will flipping these inside shackles help or cause more problems?
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First off, replace the spring pins, bushings, and shackles with MorRyde's HD Wet bolt Kit - $ 150 approx. for a two axle trailer and no more than a Saturday project for a DIY person. I can see from picture that the bushings are gone in the spring eyes and therefore they are most likely worn out in the Easy Flex Equalizers as well - the bushings for these and new bolts are in the wet bolt kit like I suggested above. This will not completely level up the trailer but will help a lot. It will also help stabilize it going down the road. While it's in the air and axles hanging you can see if the springs are shot - they are not expensive and easy to add to the job if you are already up and hanging. I your axles are not 8000 lb, then change to 8000 springs at the same time if you have already addressed the questions asked earlier RE: pin box adjustment, etc.
Don't ask me how I know!!!
Make sure to weigh it when ready for a trip - I bet you are running heavier than you think.
WB
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You do not want to flip your flippin shackles.
Your trailer is actually hanging on the shackles. Take a close look at your pics. Flipping would mean that the trailer is now balancing on upright shackles.
Peace
Dave
Thanks Dave, I ordered a new equalizer and heavy duty shackle kit last night. I'll pick up the new Springs today and have everything ready by the time I head out for the next trip.
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WillyBill
Well-known member
@jbird1234
If you still need more height after doing everything previously discussed and you have the room without making your highest point over 13'6"....
Buy new longer u-bolts and put spacer blocks between the spring perch on the axle and the bottom of the spring pack. Spacer blocks must have the hole on top for the spring center pin and a button for the bottom - this keeps the block and springs from "walking" out of position.
BTW...when installing new u-bolts be sure to pound on the bottom rounded part of the u-bolts with about a 4 lb hammer and re-torque. You may need to do this 2-4 times with a few miles between each re-torque until they seat in and quit loosening. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Measure axle for "Square to the frame and each other" as you tighten everything so you don't create a tracking problem.
Just some tips learned the hard way.
WB
If you still need more height after doing everything previously discussed and you have the room without making your highest point over 13'6"....
Buy new longer u-bolts and put spacer blocks between the spring perch on the axle and the bottom of the spring pack. Spacer blocks must have the hole on top for the spring center pin and a button for the bottom - this keeps the block and springs from "walking" out of position.
BTW...when installing new u-bolts be sure to pound on the bottom rounded part of the u-bolts with about a 4 lb hammer and re-torque. You may need to do this 2-4 times with a few miles between each re-torque until they seat in and quit loosening. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Measure axle for "Square to the frame and each other" as you tighten everything so you don't create a tracking problem.
Just some tips learned the hard way.
WB
[iQUOTE=WillyBill;589279]@jbird1234
If you still need more height after doing everything previously discussed and you have the room without making your highest point over 13'6"....
Buy new longer u-bolts and put spacer blocks between the spring perch on the axle and the bottom of the spring pack. Spacer blocks must have the hole on top for the spring center pin and a button for the bottom - this keeps the block and springs from "walking" out of position.
BTW...when installing new u-bolts be sure to pound on the bottom rounded part of the u-bolts with about a 4 lb hammer and re-torque. You may need to do this 2-4 times with a few miles between each re-torque until they seat in and quit loosening. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Measure axle for "Square to the frame and each other" as you tighten everything so you don't create a tracking problem.
Just some tips learned the hard way.
WB[/QUOTE]
I got the heavy duty shackle kit today hand for 4000 lb Springs. That's two for each side, equals 8000 pounds per side. I also ordered the new equalizer cre 3000 from MORryde. I'll put it all together tomorrow and let you know how it works out thanks for all your help my friend.
If you still need more height after doing everything previously discussed and you have the room without making your highest point over 13'6"....
Buy new longer u-bolts and put spacer blocks between the spring perch on the axle and the bottom of the spring pack. Spacer blocks must have the hole on top for the spring center pin and a button for the bottom - this keeps the block and springs from "walking" out of position.
BTW...when installing new u-bolts be sure to pound on the bottom rounded part of the u-bolts with about a 4 lb hammer and re-torque. You may need to do this 2-4 times with a few miles between each re-torque until they seat in and quit loosening. VERY IMPORTANT STEP!!! Measure axle for "Square to the frame and each other" as you tighten everything so you don't create a tracking problem.
Just some tips learned the hard way.
WB[/QUOTE]
I got the heavy duty shackle kit today hand for 4000 lb Springs. That's two for each side, equals 8000 pounds per side. I also ordered the new equalizer cre 3000 from MORryde. I'll put it all together tomorrow and let you know how it works out thanks for all your help my friend.
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