Cyclone loading ramp failure

[IronJ]

Just seems to me if your gonna rate a door for 3000lbs and 1000lbs per tire it should have 1 or 2 cross members?..just a piece of aluminium under where the wheels would roll would make a huge difference...

Your door had a decent but still too short life imho....mine didn't even last 3 months!!

sent from space via an invisible beam from a flying metal dish

 

[Bones]

That is absolutely ridiculous construction for a loading ramp

 

[LBR]

If I were the draftsman, I would order 3 supports the full length/height added in....one in center for loading heavy motorcycles and two outbound close to the nominal SxS wheel tracks. Golf carts would stress all 3 fair equally.

Consumers would be instruct to load motorbikes in center.

 

[porthole]

So my ramp is set in the frame and all the bolt on pieces bolted back on. No weather strip yet. But in checking the alignment something told me I should check the measurements of the old door.
Ah yup, the new ramp is shorter then the old ramp.

Because heartland did not shim the ramp when it was originally installed, that means the new ramp's top flange is even with the bottom of the frame opening, no place for the weather strip to seat against.

 

[Bones]

So my ramp is set in the frame and all the bolt on pieces bolted back on. No weather strip yet. But in checking the alignment something told me I should check the measurements of the old door.
Ah yup, the new ramp is shorter then the old ramp.

Because heartland did not shim the ramp when it was originally installed, that means the new ramp's top flange is even with the bottom of the frame opening, no place for the weather strip to seat against.

I wonder if at this point you would be better off constructing your own ramp.

 

[avvidclif]

For those replacing their ramps, just how heavy is that thing anyway? Just curious.

 

[OEFVET]

Duane after seeing the way these ramps are ACTUALLY constructed, I'm certain all our ramps will fail! I'm gonna start reinforcing mine somehow. As already stated it is unbelievable that NO cross supports exist. If anyone comes up with a reinforcing technique please share with us.

 

[Sniper]

Duane after seeing the way these ramps are ACTUALLY constructed, I'm certain all our ramps will fail! I'm gonna start reinforcing mine somehow. As already stated it is unbelievable that NO cross supports exist. If anyone comes up with a reinforcing technique please share with us.

Since we don't use the ramp for a patio (it's not designed for that), it's either up, or down. I've thought about bolting a pair of those aluminum loading ramps to the top and bottom of the ramp door in line with the the removable chokes where we tie down the Harley's, but I don't know...I'll do some real studying on it this Winter.

 

[OEFVET]

Sniper keep us posted I'd be interested in an easy way to strengthen the ramp.


Sent by NY Horse Holder

 

[Bones]

Duane after seeing the way these ramps are ACTUALLY constructed, I'm certain all our ramps will fail! I'm gonna start reinforcing mine somehow. As already stated it is unbelievable that NO cross supports exist. If anyone comes up with a reinforcing technique please share with us.

Take the ramp off and remove the aluminum molding. Remove the inside lauan with rubber sheet. Now go buy aluminum rectangular tube lay it on-top of the foam and cut the foam under, away and build yourself a frame. make sure to glue the one end to the fiberglass panel and the surrounding foam. Lay the removed lauan rubber sheet back on gluing in place and clamp tight. make sure you have marked where you placed your frame work. reinstall the aluminum molding. Drill holes through the molding and rivet in place.

Alternative method would be to remove the door and remove the top aluminum edge. Buy aluminum tube that will fit in-between the panels. buy a piece that is longer than the door and hammer it down in place. once done cut off the excess and damaged area. Reinstall the trim and drill holes and rivet in place.

Another method.
Remove the door build a new door out of aluminum rectangular tube. Cut away the fiberglass outer skin and glue it to the new frame. Install foam as thick as the aluminum and glue. install lightweight diamond plate on the inside gluing and riveting in place. Install and now your golden and the only issue you will have is that the trailer will fall apart around the door. Ha ha A little humor

 

[OEFVET]

If I was gonna go through all that I think I would buy a ramp designed by Moryde.

 

[Bones]

If I was gonna go through all that I think I would buy a ramp designed by Moryde.

You can always lay some aluminum diamond plate across the ramp side glue and riven in place. Rivet to the outer aluminum frame.

 

[KenandKK]

The question that keep's lingering in my mind is..... if you can keep the moisture out, will the ramp hold up? Mine is 6years old and seems okay, but I'm going to stay tuned to see where this goes. I load SXS's, a pair of Harley's, golf cart, and use it as a patio... not at the same time though.

Bones.... I like your idea's!

 

[porthole]

If I was gonna go through all that I think I would buy a ramp designed by Moryde.

MOR/ryde does make a ramp, or at least they did at one time. Like their baggage doors, they were well made and a quality product, and it came with a price. There is a reason you see very few Big Horns with aluminum baggage doors.

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The question that keep's lingering in my mind is..... if you can keep the moisture out, will the ramp hold up? Mine is 6years old and seems okay,

My ramp was 7 years old, almost to the month.

Next time your ramp is open, look at the hinge end. Each hinge is held on by 3 bolts and 3 well nuts. If the well nuts on the no skid portion are rusty, you have a problem.

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I wonder if at this point you would be better off constructing your own ramp.

$$$ and you would need a 9 foot square perfectly flat workplace. Add to that a MIG or TIG and a source for 8' square ge-lcoated fiberglass sheets.
Aluminum is not a problem, I have an excellent supply house right around the corner. Just picked up a piece of aluminum angle so I can make a sealing surface for the top.

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" x 10' = $5.63

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For those replacing their ramps, just how heavy is that thing anyway? Just curious.

Shipping weight was listed as 350 pounds. We could not get it out of the trailer in the crate, so we un-packed in the trailer, laid it down and 2 of us easily moved it out unto the top of my truck.

I was able to move the ramp from my truck to a garden trailer by myself. I would guess the bare door is 150 pounds or less.

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Since we don't use the ramp for a patio (it's not designed for that), it's either up, or down. I've thought about bolting a pair of those aluminum loading ramps to the top and bottom of the ramp door in line with the the removable chokes where we tie down the Harley's, but I don't know...I'll do some real studying on it this Winter.

It is not just the load you take in and out that is a concern. It will be clear when I post the autopsy pictures.

The hinges and pressure that the springs exert is just as much of a load in a very concentrated area.
All of the areas where the outer skin cracked moving the bike or golf cart in or out was around the hinges.

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You can always lay some aluminum diamond plate across the ramp side glue and riven in place. Rivet to the outer aluminum frame.

See above for RE the hinges

 

[Bones]

MOR/ryde does make a ramp, or at least they did at one time. Like their baggage doors, they were well made and a quality product, and it came with a price. There is a reason you see very few Big Horns with aluminum baggage doors.

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My ramp was 7 years old, almost to the month.

Next time your ramp is open, look at the hinge end. Each hinge is held on by 3 bolts and 3 well nuts. If the well nuts on the no skid portion are rusty, you have a problem.

- - - Updated - - -



$$$ and you would need a 9 foot square perfectly flat workplace. Add to that a MIG or TIG and a source for 8' square ge-lcoated fiberglass sheets.
Aluminum is not a problem, I have an excellent supply house right around the corner. Just picked up a piece of aluminum angle so I can make a sealing surface for the top.

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/8" x 10' = $5.63

- - - Updated - - -



Shipping weight was listed as 350 pounds. We could not get it out of the trailer in the crate, so we un-packed in the trailer, laid it down and 2 of us easily moved it out unto the top of my truck.

I was able to move the ramp from my truck to a garden trailer by myself. I would guess the bare door is 150 pounds or less.

- - - Updated - - -




It is not just the load you take in and out that is a concern. It will be clear when I post the autopsy pictures.

The hinges and pressure that the springs exert is just as much of a load in a very concentrated area.
All of the areas where the outer skin cracked moving the bike or golf cart in or out was around the hinges.

- - - Updated - - -



See above for RE the hinges

Another thought based on your comment. When you bolt the hinges back on do you have a tube that goes through to stop the bolt from crushing the panel? If not maybe you can put one in and then use some aluminum plate on the ramp side to distribute the force of the bolt to a greater area

 

[porthole]

The ramp comes from Lippert with the hinge assembly attached. And on my ramp and others that I have seen that failed, it was the outer skin the broke through first.

 

[Bones]

The ramp comes from Lippert with the hinge assembly attached. And on my ramp and others that I have seen that failed, it was the outer skin the broke through first.

I can definitely see that. That is where all of the pressure and torque is Can you remove the bolts and add some plating material to distribute the load? I'm probably driving you nutz now so sorry if I am.

 

[Sniper]

I can definitely see that. That is where all of the pressure and torque is Can you remove the bolts and add some plating material to distribute the load? I'm probably driving you nutz now so sorry if I am.

Perhaps a 12" piece of diamond plate both inside, and out across the bottom width of the ramp sandwiched between the hinge?

 

[Bones]

Perhaps a 12" piece of diamond plate both inside, and out across the bottom width of the ramp sandwiched between the hinge?

Yes. Agreed.

 

[porthole]

The suggestions are not practical for a ramp already built and having been originally installed incorrectly from the factory.

All of you with a ramp, take a look at the clearance between the bottom of the ramp and the trailer's framed opening. Mine has zero clearance. When the ramp was mounted, it was set in the frame with no shimming. That causes two problems, one there is insufficient gasket mating surfaces at the top, especially with a new ramp that is made 1/4 - 3/8" shorter and two, it allows water to sit on the frame and eventually cause rust.

The ramp is no different then a door on your sticks and bricks, place it in the opening, properly shim it, THEN secure the door to the frame.