D.C. Power problem....
- Thread starter twilliams
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Sounds like you're not getting any output from the Power Converter to the fusebox and to keep the batteries charged. If you press the test button on the tank/battery level indicator in the control panel, it'll probably show no lights instead of 4 lights.
The possibilities include:
- Circuit breaker that powers the Converter is tripped.
- Power Converter is unplugged.
- Fuses on the Converter are blown
- Converter has failed.
The Converter is located behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage. Check the outlet it's plugged into. If the plug has come out, put it back and tie it into place.
If the plug is ok, use a voltmeter or a known good 120V AC appliance to test the outlet.
If the outlet is ok, check the blade type fuses on the Converter.
Check the output wires at the Converter for 13.2 - 13.6 Volts DC.
If you have 120V AC going in, and the fuses are ok, but no output, the converter has failed.
As a workaround until you get the problem resolved, get a battery charger from Walmart and use it to keep the batteries charged. As the batteries become depleted, you'll lose the thermostat function and won't have heating or cooling.
The possibilities include:
- Circuit breaker that powers the Converter is tripped.
- Power Converter is unplugged.
- Fuses on the Converter are blown
- Converter has failed.
The Converter is located behind the rear wall of the pass through basement storage. Check the outlet it's plugged into. If the plug has come out, put it back and tie it into place.
If the plug is ok, use a voltmeter or a known good 120V AC appliance to test the outlet.
If the outlet is ok, check the blade type fuses on the Converter.
Check the output wires at the Converter for 13.2 - 13.6 Volts DC.
If you have 120V AC going in, and the fuses are ok, but no output, the converter has failed.
As a workaround until you get the problem resolved, get a battery charger from Walmart and use it to keep the batteries charged. As the batteries become depleted, you'll lose the thermostat function and won't have heating or cooling.
danemayer
Well-known member
Tony,
You might want to have a battery charger available just in case this is an early warning from the Converter that it's starting to fail.
Oregon_Camper
Well-known member
When I disconnected my converter (Bighorn 3160) I noticed the converter was using a 20amp plug (different plug type) not 15amp. Was that not the case on your converter?
wdk450
Well-known member
I think that this might merit further investigation of the AC outlet box that is supplying the converter. You NEED to have the converter working all of the time you are plugged into shorepower, and there is NO INDICATION OR ALARM THAT THE BATTERY IS NOT GETTING CHARGED, other than remembering to occasionally press the "TEST" button on the systems monitor. I would suggest as a preventative measure, changing out the insulation displacement connector type of AC outlet normally installed throughout RV's for a normal wire screw connector AC outlet to supply the converter. The IDC outlet's incoming power metal V wire connection fingers have a small contact surface area and are notorious for poor connections (especially under heavier AC current loads). This may cause the converter to lose power without you knowing it. Your unplugging and replugging the converter may have just moved the poor IDC wire connection just enough to get it working again. All of the vibrations of road travel may cause the connection to fail again.
mlpeloquin
Well-known member
Bill once again you are spot on. Just to add it is working, but is it working with a increased contact resistance from a just touching insulation displacement contact? I don't think I would wait, but trip the breaker off to that socket and open up the back of the socket up and make sure the wires are secure. Don't want to create a hot melt or fire.
I know a photo is worth a thousand words, but My coach is still in storage. I installed a small digital DC voltmeter in my switch panel and tapped into the +12 volts there. So when the rig is in use I have a view of the condition of the +12 volts at all time. So when plugged into shore power the voltage seems as if it is in the 13.2 range.
anjoro
Active Member
Make sure circuit breaker for power converter (120 a.c./12 vdc) is not tripped in AC panel. Then the DC voltage at batteries, then plug in shore power and check voltage at batteries again. If power converter is not working, battery voltage will run down over time. Good luck.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk
