Dead Bedroom slide out

kiddruger

Member
Howdy,
Went to open up our 2012 Landmark Grand Canyon and the bedroom slide just won't move or make any noise like it's even trying to open. We did change the switch out last yr plus purchased another new switch. Put the new switch in this morning and still nothing. Going to try and get to the motor to test it, but not to much room to work with the slide in. This slide has always given us headaches over the yrs and we can't believe that there isn't a manual way to bring these slides in. Any one got any ideas???
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I think there may be a flexible link that's used to drive the motor using a drill. Whether you have the link, location of the motor, and difficulty of manual operation are unknowns to me. But others have done it and will likely chime in.
 

kiddruger

Member
Thanks Dan,
I have the flexible link, just have to find it. Going to test the motor tomorrow if I can get to it. Not much room to work with it closed and getting to the motor, but we'll get it open!!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks Dan,
I have the flexible link, just have to find it. Going to test the motor tomorrow if I can get to it. Not much room to work with it closed and getting to the motor, but we'll get it open!!

Before going too far, you might check under the bed to see if the wires are still connected. Also remember to check fuses in the main fuse box. A 2012 LM probably has the LEDs next to each fuse. They'll illuminate when 1) there's a blown fuse and 2) there's a load on the circuit (i.e. pressing the switch). But if no light, pull the fuse and ohm it out, or just replace it.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Depending on your size and flexibility you might be able to low crawl from the kitchen end.
If the slide is in the door will be blocking access to the motor.

Peace
Dave
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
If it’s like my 2011 Grand Canyon, the slide motor is behind the bottom drawer of the nightstand. Impossible to get to with the slide in. Try getting into the available space between the slide out and bathroom. While someone presses the switch for the slide, use your body to push outward on the slide. I got mine open that way one time. Once out, you can pull out the nightstand drawer and/or take off the upper part of the bed base to get to the motor. It may not be the motor. I’ve had one of the slide adjustment blocks catch on the wood behind the bed support. Had to modify the supports to give the block more space to move.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

sengli

Well-known member
All the +12v connections to the slide motor are of course, wire nutted together under the bed. Doing some upgrades on our rig last year, I found almost all the of those connections were loose. Its a pain to access them, but it can be done by partially dis-assembling the bed deck.
 

kiddruger

Member
Well it's a dead motor!!! When the hole was drilled under the bed to run the wire into the sub basement, they drilled it inline with part of the bed frame. Every time the slide was bought in the bed frame was dragging on the wiring running to the slide motor slowly peeling off the outer cover exposing the bare wire which looks like the cause of the motor failure. We were lucky that the carpet didn't catch fire, you would've thought that the breaker would've tripped. At least the slide is open now as we wait on a new gearbox/motor.
 

sengli

Well-known member
I had a strange occurrence today, as we are just un-winterizing our coach for the first time this year. The bedroom BAL electric slide system started to run as we were extending the slide, but sounded very slow, and very labored. Then it just stopped working all together. Wouldnt go in or out, pushing the switch did nothing at all. I tore the bed platform apart to access the motor, which took about 30 minutes or so. Just for fun tried the system again and it was back to working...and sounded just fine? I have since ordered a replacement motor and gear box assembly just in case. Is there a thermal type 12 volt fuse somewhere for this circuit?

I checked the fuse panel for a blown DC fuse, there were none bad.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I had a strange occurrence today, as we are just un-winterizing our coach for the first time this year. The bedroom BAL electric slide system started to run as we were extending the slide, but sounded very slow, and very labored. Then it just stopped working all together. Wouldnt go in or out, pushing the switch did nothing at all. I tore the bed platform apart to access the motor, which took about 30 minutes or so. Just for fun tried the system again and it was back to working...and sounded just fine? I have since ordered a replacement motor and gear box assembly just in case. Is there a thermal type 12 volt fuse somewhere for this circuit?

I checked the fuse panel for a blown DC fuse, there were none bad.

Motors for slides usually are powered from the battery, through one of the 12V DC mini-circuit breakers on the buss bar near the battery. If plugged into shore power, the Power Converter provides an assist. The output of the Power Converter alone may or may not be enough to operate the motor.

So the slow operation and labored sound would suggest insufficient power. If it had stopped and started repeatedly, that would suggest the mini-circuit breaker tripping and resetting.

The first thing I'd check is battery voltage. One easy way is on the levelup control panel. Cycle it to show voltage. If plugged into shore power (but not the tow vehicle), voltage should be 13.2 - 13.6 VDC. If less than 13.2V, the output of the Power Converter is not getting through to the battery. If less than 12.6V, the battery has been depleted due to lack of recharging from the Power Converter.

If that's all true, the likely culprit is another 12V DC mini-circuit breaker on that same buss bar. One of them sits between the Power Converter and battery and it has a manual reset. Locate the buss bar which is a row of mini-breakers covered by red rubber boots. Look at the thickest wires. One goes to the hydraulics and the other to the Power Converter. The one to the Power Converter is the manual reset breaker. Press the teeny-tiny reset button and the voltage reading on the Levelup should jump up to over 13V.
Buss Bar Example Notated.jpgcircuit breaker reset.jpg
 

sengli

Well-known member
I have a digital DVM built into my control center. It at the time was reading 13.6 volts. Never had an issue with this slide system ever before. Thinking maybe that slide had taken a set or was kinda stuck after setting closed for about 6 months? Like I stated when tried to extend the slide..it sounded very labored, so if it was kinda stuck it would have drawn a lot more current on the motor. I even pulled the switch, and the was voltage on the switch was 13.6 at the moment. Must have been the circuit breaker causing the outage. Thanks for the info on the breakers up front.
 

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danemayer

Well-known member
I have a digital DVM built into my control center. It at the time was reading 13.6 volts. Never had an issue with this slide system ever before. Thinking maybe that slide had taken a set or was kinda stuck after setting closed for about 6 months? Like I stated when tried to extend the slide..it sounded very labored, so if it was kinda stuck it would have drawn a lot more current on the motor. I even pulled the switch, and the was voltage on the switch was 13.6 at the moment. Must have been the circuit breaker causing the outage. Thanks for the info on the breakers up front.

13.6V is coming from the Power Converter, and that it's not 13.2 may indicate that there's a problem charging the battery. Check the battery cells for water level and that the terminal connections are clean and tight.
 
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