Deciphering fusebox

[Royce]

Hello I have a 2014 Heartland, North Trail, 22 FBS. In my fusebox I have eleven 15 amp fuses (besides the two 40 amp reverse polarity fuses).
I have attached a few photos to clarify my confusion... My #4 fuse has a red light beside it...thinking it was blown, I replaced (I noticed it was not blown when I removed it but replaced anyway). The red light is still on! So thinking maybe it could be a short, I tried to identify what all the fuses operated: Whoever wrote the identity of the fuses at the factory had lousy handwriting, or I'm just blind..
What I deciphered I believe is:
1. Front?
2, Furn (Furnace)
3,A.C.
4, Moni ??????
5, Main ??
6, Refer (refrigerator)
7, Bath
8, Slide
9, Radio
10, Awning
11, N-A (as in Not applicable)
I am concerned what #4 represents since that is the one with the red light... I noted the wire connection to #4 is brown with white stripe?
Any help would be appreciated.
thank you

 

[danemayer]

Does the tank monitor work?

 

[Royce]

Yes the white grey and black tank, HWH, water pump monitors work! Yea, was thinking same "moni" for as that...But now I pluged in the TT into my 2012 Ford f150 and the truck shows trailer is not hooked up? as well as when i turn on my truck lights my TT lights don't work(or light up)??? I guess there may be another fuse between where it plugs into truck and TT fusebox. And that #4 is that circuit?
P.S. thanks for the prompt reply!

 

[danemayer]

The trailer lights are powered by the tow vehicle and so far as I know, the fusing is in the tow vehicle.

The LED next to each fuse normally is powered if the fuse is open or removed AND there's a load on the circuit, providing a path to ground. The design of the LED circuitry should keep it from illuminating if the fuse is ok. So I'm wondering if the LED circuitry is failing. Never heard of that before on any of these boxes, but I suppose it's possible. If that's a WFCO power center, you might give them a call to see if there's a simple test you can do to verify the LED is ok. I think WFCO tech support phone is (877) 294-8997.

 

[Royce]

solved the "no lights problem" on my TT. Where you plug in the trailer plug into the truck bumper. I checked and you were correct no power from truck! Checked the fuses all ok in truck. BUT the wiring harness that plugs into the rear of bumper female plug was real loose. Fixed!
I will try contacting WFCO tomorrow! I will also try to call Heartland to see if they remember what #4 15 amp fuse powers? so I can also trace it down to make sure its not shorted....but then the fuse would be blown?? O well will just follow leads... thanks again!

 

[ram22]

‘15 22FBS

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[danemayer]

Some other thoughts. Check your TV signal booster and turn it off. Also turn off the water pump if it's on. Turn off any closet lights too.

See if the LED goes out.

 

[Royce]

Thank you! looks like I understood the words OK. I guess #4 "Moni" as for Monitor represents the Actual white,grey, black water tank and HWH, gauges on bathroom wall. and the "main" represents the middle area of TT wiring like #1 is the front area and #7 is the rear or Bathroom... and since my Monitors are working then it must be a defective red light... as we mentioned before. I will double check tomorrow! I did try the TV booster since I thought Monitor could be TV... As well as waterpump just testing everything on city water and tank water. Because I have been de winterizing, to ready for a trip!

 

[Roller4tan]

Perhaps a disconnected wire on the back of the fuse panel for that fuse would act as a blown fuse and light up the led.
Just my 2 cents....

 

[Royce]

I talked the WFCO people yesterday and they said sometimes the red light might go on if that circut just has a low electric draw, making the light think its a short. So I called Heartland to try to figure what is on that circuit. The said they will send me a spec sheet, because he didn't know either? So waiting for his e-mail. If I don't receive..I will then try to trace wires starting behind the box, since from photo I posted all I see is a brown with white wire. Thanks for the input!

 

[danemayer]

I talked the WFCO people yesterday and they said sometimes the red light might go on if that circut just has a low electric draw, making the light think its a short. So I called Heartland to try to figure what is on that circuit. The said they will send me a spec sheet, because he didn't know either? So waiting for his e-mail. If I don't receive..I will then try to trace wires starting behind the box, since from photo I posted all I see is a brown with white wire. Thanks for the input!

Low electric draw might be an LED downstream. The TV signal booster requires 12V, but has very low electric draw to light up the indicator and power the circuitry. You might try disconnecting the power lead from the booster.

Also, make sure no closet or basement or front compartment or UDC lights are on. A failing LED light might be the culprit.

 

[taskswap]

Stole this off the Interwebs. The way these things work, they sit in parallel to the fuse. When the fuse is good it's a short circuit. The LED and resistor pair are a higher current path, so it bypasses them. If the fuse blows the current no longer has that option so it flows through the LED, lighting it.

There are only two ways I can see for that LED to light, and one of the two I'd rule out because something somewhere would melt. (Current doesn't just "pick the easier path." It flows in a ratio. In normal operation that LED might only see 0.00000001A flowing through it, not enough to light, but it won't be zero. It's just that the ratio is so massive, if this was happening something would be on fire elsewhere.)

So... if the LED is lit, current is flowing through it, which means some downstream device is "on" or "shorted". And if offering that current a much easier path to flow through doesn't change its mind, maybe you aren't offering what you think.

I suggest testing the fuse with an actual multimeter. Fuses can blow or fail in ways that are hard to see visually, and yours might actually be bad or blown even if it looks good. A cheap multimeter can prove that out. But fuse panels are also mechanical and get some flexing when fuses are removed/installed. It's super rare for one to fail, but I've had it happen to me - one fuse slot in a panel was just bad and never worked. I suspected a cold solder joint on the back side, but either way, it's not impossible.