While getting our Edge ready for vacation. I fired up the frig on 120v it wouldn't stay it defaulted to gas. I tried 12v and the same thing happened. When I was at the factory I was told how to reset the frig so it would run on 120 & 12 volt. The trailer wasn't level so I don't know if that was part of the issue with the 120 & 12 volt. I had voltage throughout the rest of the trailer. So......
Dometic Frig
- Thread starter mikeyy53
- Start date
wdk450
Well-known member
Mikey:
Did the refrig light and start cooling on gas? Are the status lights on on the front panel? This would imply that you have 12 volts DC to the refrig. The refrig NEEDS 12 volts DC for the switching/gas valving & gas lighting functions to happen via the refrig logic board.
Do you have an outlet tester or DVM to test the refrig AC outlet?
I believe there are fuses either on the board or inline in wires to the board. You might also check all breaker box breakers and fuses.
Good luck!!!
P.S. Your heaters for the refrig won't know it is out of level. Rather, the internal channels of the cooling unit will clog up. As a rule of thumb, if the trailer is so unlevel that it is uncomfortable to walk in, you are courting PERMANENT IRREVERSABLE DAMAGE to the cooling unit. This will take about $1k to fix and a week's downtime.
Did the refrig light and start cooling on gas? Are the status lights on on the front panel? This would imply that you have 12 volts DC to the refrig. The refrig NEEDS 12 volts DC for the switching/gas valving & gas lighting functions to happen via the refrig logic board.
Do you have an outlet tester or DVM to test the refrig AC outlet?
I believe there are fuses either on the board or inline in wires to the board. You might also check all breaker box breakers and fuses.
Good luck!!!
P.S. Your heaters for the refrig won't know it is out of level. Rather, the internal channels of the cooling unit will clog up. As a rule of thumb, if the trailer is so unlevel that it is uncomfortable to walk in, you are courting PERMANENT IRREVERSABLE DAMAGE to the cooling unit. This will take about $1k to fix and a week's downtime.
Last edited:
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
One more thing to check before a trip to the dealer. The fridge is supposed to be plugged into an outlet outside in the back of the fridge. Pull the vent panel off and check this outlet. Also look for a GFI receptacle in your trailer. Make sure it's not tripped. The outlet for the fridge is on the same circuit.
Everyone Thanks!
The status panel show that it was working off of gas, not sure if it cooled as the trailer was not level at all. The breakers and fuses were good. I'll double check everything at storage place. I don't want to take it to the dealer as we leave July 11 for vacation. If it works on propane we'll have a frig for vacation. The owners manual leaves a lot to be desired, but then again I look for weird information
The status panel show that it was working off of gas, not sure if it cooled as the trailer was not level at all. The breakers and fuses were good. I'll double check everything at storage place. I don't want to take it to the dealer as we leave July 11 for vacation. If it works on propane we'll have a frig for vacation. The owners manual leaves a lot to be desired, but then again I look for weird information
I have a 2010 Edge same type of problem with frig. I ran on 120 for three days then all of a sudden it started beeping which I read was due to low voltage. It worked on gas so I left it there all night. In the morning, I went back to 120 just for look, and it ran on 120 for the next 4 hours before I unhooked and went home. Right now it is at my dealer for a checkup on that problem...Jgall1941
It may have been that the voltage level was not appropriate for the fridge. It has a voltage monitor built in and if too low will flip over. You wouldn't notice it because at 95 volts many things will still work but the fridge wouldn't like that voltage and switch over to a more suitable source.
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