Dump Valve Question
- Thread starter htneighbors
- Start date
We use Vlaterra valves on spas... The stainless shaft that goes into the valve SCREWS into the slide (the part that actually is the valve inside). I would guess that the shaft came unscrewed from the internal part. Try and disconnect the cable and put the shaft to the closed position and try to screw the shaft back into the valve slide... These are cheap valves and the black ones, like in the pix are made of ABS and not PVC. If you have to replace it, get a PVC valve from a pool & Spa store of contact Valterra directly and request a PVC valve. Much stronger. better yet, put in a big ole brass ball valve and never have the problem again. You can get electric actuators for them too so it becomes a push button affair...
Luckyhat12
Active Member
When I had problems with my tank valves I had to pull the valves and was incredibly dissapointed in what I saw. They had taken the cutout that they made in the frame and in the floor for the plumbing and threw them in the tank. I had a metal holesaw cutout blocking my flow and it wouldn't let my valves close off anymore.
Good luck and let us know what comes of it.
Good luck and let us know what comes of it.
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
I tried exactly that, about 6 times, the other day. I think the threads are too stripped out for it to hold.
Question: There are some screws around the housing where the gate slides up too open. About 6 of them, I think. Can I remove those screws and access the top of the gate near where the stem screws in? I'd like to try to 'grab' it and pull it open. Can I do this without making a mess?
Bob&Patty
Founders of SoCal Chapter
HT, Im not sure...but what the heck...give it a whirl. Long needle nose pliers wont work?? Try using a small slide hammer with a screw in it. My thought is, if you can get it to move a little, it will relieve some of the pressure. Maybe if you just loosen the bolts a little. All this said, make sure you are wearing a slicker and loooooooong gloves. Frozen sewer trout will be easy to clean up. I will be thinking about you watching football today. Good luck my friend. Bob
Frozen sewer trout will be easy to clean up. I will be thinking about you watching football today. Good luck my friend. Bob
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Since it appears to be stripped, can you thread a long screw, slightly larger thread size into the coupler so you can pull the valve open and drain the aquarium before removing the bolts that hold the valve together? I guess you could try loosening the bolts, veery slooowly, to see if any fluids start to leak before taking it apart.
2010augusta
Well-known member
what about a dab of JB weld on the end of the cable and shove the cable back in the valve for a day, then see if it will activate the valve.
htneighbors
Unbelievably Blessed!
Good Idea. Right now, I can't get the current stem out of the way in order to try this. I may cut it so I can do something like this.
Great idea Alan! Thanks. I like this suggestion the best!
Epoxy ought to do it, too, huh? I'll give it a whirl when I get time. I thought I'd be off work tomorrow...but - no, gotta work! Now that I think about it, since I can't get to the threaded end of the valve stem - without cutting it - I may mix up some epoxy and try to 'inject' it down alongside the stem, and hope it sets up after a few days. Or, since this valve is a goner anyway, I may cut the plastic top off of the valve, (where the cable attaches) and then I could pull the stem out - surely! Got the gears turning, Alan! Thanks again!
Definitely a better idea than the dynamite that Jim suggested - although the dynamite would most certainly cure the problem with the valve!
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2010augusta
Well-known member
Great idea Alan! Thanks. I like this suggestion the best!
just be careful to not get too much in there and glue the entire valve shut, do that and you might be breaking out the TNT.
I have used JB weld sucessfully to do just that. Give it at least 24 hours of time to set up.
If you loosten the 4 or 6 bolts/nuts around the perimiter of the valve, it may leak a little "fluid", but the whole slide assembly is built into the middle part of that valve. Unbolting it all together is, by design, for the ability to replace the defective slide assembly without having to re-plumb the valve ends. It WILL make a mess if you pull it apart. Not sure how, but there are inflatable plugs that you can buy and push through the line, possibly from either end, and inflate them for a temporary plug to make the repair without the "mud" flowing out on you... I would definately look into that one...
SmokeyBare
Well-known member
The Inflatable plug is a good idea except it would need to go through the black tank and the "Mud" to reach the pipe outlet ahead of the valve body.
Time to call in someone to suck out the tank as best as possible before removing the valve gate. This is going to be a nasty task to it's end !!
Good Luck HT !! Time to Haz-Mat Suit UP !
Time to call in someone to suck out the tank as best as possible before removing the valve gate. This is going to be a nasty task to it's end !!
Good Luck HT !! Time to Haz-Mat Suit UP !
Sometimes with the inflatable plugs you can unscrew the air line to the plug after installing it. So you could install the plug from the "dry end" of the line and then unscrew the air line and leave the plug in place for replumbing. Of course, some of the "mud" would spill from going this way but not much... See http://www.leaktools.com/products/pressure_testing_plugs/individual_plugs.php
caissiel
Senior Member
here is an idea.
See if you can buy a valve flange.
Now on the downside of the valve you could take a hacksaw and cut the flange corners, it will leave the valve gate tightly held with the remained pieces and bolts.
Then you can pry and try to unstuck the gate. its a messy job but you need to try to collect it in the hose and a container. Even screwing a screw in the gate might help moving the gate. Maybe screwing a tin plate that could fit between the gate and the cut flange.
Maybe you can hold the trimmed flange with clamps in order to empty the rest of the tank after the valve is unstuck.
I am still thinking here might come up with something better.
See if you can buy a valve flange.
Now on the downside of the valve you could take a hacksaw and cut the flange corners, it will leave the valve gate tightly held with the remained pieces and bolts.
Then you can pry and try to unstuck the gate. its a messy job but you need to try to collect it in the hose and a container. Even screwing a screw in the gate might help moving the gate. Maybe screwing a tin plate that could fit between the gate and the cut flange.
Maybe you can hold the trimmed flange with clamps in order to empty the rest of the tank after the valve is unstuck.
I am still thinking here might come up with something better.
caissiel
Senior Member
Here is what I would do to clear the valve.
When I worked in the maintenance industry we always had to change hydraulic valves at the bottom of reservoirs. My mechanics alway use the vacuum from the Idling gas truck to create a vacuum thus preventing the tank from leaking oil down the lines.
If your tank is now full of black water, its not a problem to pour water in the toilet till the toilet gets full of clean water past the sealed valve. Plug the vent on the roof. If there is a check on the flush line you need to remove it and then connect a hose to the vacuum end of an idling gas car. The vacuum will never lift the water on the flush line but it will create a vacuum to prevent the water from flowing down the drain.
Where there is no venting there is no water flow. You could just use duct tap on the vent. Take your time removing the valve and be careful of leakage. An idling car can draw up to 15" of vacuum.
Believe me it was a standard practice my mechanics used on tanks that were 20 ft in the air and up to 4 ft of hydraulic fluid in it. I cannot see how a 12" tank would be a problem.
When I worked in the maintenance industry we always had to change hydraulic valves at the bottom of reservoirs. My mechanics alway use the vacuum from the Idling gas truck to create a vacuum thus preventing the tank from leaking oil down the lines.
If your tank is now full of black water, its not a problem to pour water in the toilet till the toilet gets full of clean water past the sealed valve. Plug the vent on the roof. If there is a check on the flush line you need to remove it and then connect a hose to the vacuum end of an idling gas car. The vacuum will never lift the water on the flush line but it will create a vacuum to prevent the water from flowing down the drain.
Where there is no venting there is no water flow. You could just use duct tap on the vent. Take your time removing the valve and be careful of leakage. An idling car can draw up to 15" of vacuum.
Believe me it was a standard practice my mechanics used on tanks that were 20 ft in the air and up to 4 ft of hydraulic fluid in it. I cannot see how a 12" tank would be a problem.
SmokeyBare
Well-known member
Caissiel,
Now that's a Great Tip... and a good plan ! Thanks for sharing.
Now that's a Great Tip... and a good plan ! Thanks for sharing.
YEP, Ol' JB is a lot of help...............well 90% of the time. Should have seen our BBQ after the Central Ca. Rally
Oh man Bob - I'll bet that was a bugger to clean. All that sugary-gooey terriyaki sauce, all caramelized and burned onto the grates. I hate that. But the meat was mm mm good. Thanks for cleaning up my mess
Love ya :angel:Jim
