Electric hot water issue-update

[ash]

Well after moving from one campsite to another my hot water heater quit working on the electric side. I replaced the element, but still no hot water. I've turned off the electricity at the break and used my multi-meter to check the thermostat and rocker switch. Getting good readings at both. Have checked the wires on the back of the unit and everything looks good. What am I missing? Thinking about calling suburban , but hate the idea of having to pull up camp to take it in as I full-time in my 5th wheel.

Would appreciate any help.

 

[brianharrison]

Dont want to sound glib, but do you have a switch on the control panel (inside) to turn on/off? Is the 110V switch on the front of the hot water heater in full on position? You may want to cycle both of these (off/back on).

Reset manual limit switches on hot water, Check 110V AC at the element connections when all energized (be careful.....)

In the end, the new heater element may be FUBAR too.....?

Brian

 

[ash]

Yes all switches are in there proper positions.

I'll try testing the element with electricity on. But why would a brand new element not work? The tank was full before I turned everything on and the reading is fine with the electricity off.

 

[danemayer]

I just had the icemaker/water dispenser solenoid replaced. The icemaker side of the replacement didn't work - open coil. I just installed the 2nd replacement solenoid this afternoon and it works.

 

[danemayer]

Ash,

If you're checking voltage all the way to the heating element, my next question would be about the return side of the circuit. I assume you're checking voltage relative to a ground on the RV. Maybe the circuit is open on the back side.

 

[NWILSON]

Is there ANY chance that somehow the winterizing bypass valves were moved so your "hot" water isn't even going through the heater? I'm reaching with this, I know, but if the element is good and it's getting power what else could it be????

 

[alaska dodge]

Check the thermal high limit fuse, these go bad and need to be replaced. When they go you will lose electric heat but will still have gas.

bill

 

[ash]

Bill- where would I find that fuse?

My valves are all correct.

Danemayer-how would I check the other side of the circuit?

 

[danemayer]

Bill- where would I find that fuse?

Danemayer-how would I check the other side of the circuit?

Here's a drawing - it may not look exactly like yours, but it's shows the high-limit, the thermostat, and the heating element.

With POWER DISCONNECTED from the RV, and the WHITE wire disconnected from the element, check continuity of that wire to neutral on a nearby outlet. I believe neutral is supposed to be the larger blade of the outlet. If no continuity, there's a bad connection on the neutral (white wire), which would mean that the heater circuit is open on the backside. If you have continuity, reconnect the white wire to the heating element.

With POWER ON, you should have 110V to ground at the heating element. If you do, that confirms the switches are working, the high-temp reset is working, and the thermostat is working well enough to pass electricity when cold. If you don't have power at the heating element, work backwards to find the last place you do have power.

I believe you should read 110V to GROUND at either terminal of the heating element. If you have it on one side and not the other, I think that means the element is open.

And of course, if you had a senior moment and fired up the heating element before putting water back into the tank, the new element would be burned out.

And since I'm not an expert at electrical systems, you might want to wait a few minutes before proceeding. If I've got anything wrong, someone like EvolvingPowerCat will probably jump in to correct me.

 

[wdk450]

With needle-sharp DVM probes you can prick through the heating element wire insulation (holding on to the INSULATED portion of the probes) to see if 110 VAC is there, and cause no real harm to the wires.

 

[alaska dodge]

Ash,
What model water heater do you have?

Bill

 

[ash]

I have a suburban water heater.

Before I go all electrical crazy, i'm going to replace the element again and anode rod to be sure it's not that. I went to the local hardware store and they had a element that was a slightly higher wattage of 1500, my suburban one is 1440. Also the one from the hardware store is shorter. Will it still work or should I get an element specifically for my res water heater?

 

[Rrloren]

I recently installed the same thing and it works fine.

 

[ChopperBill]

My water heater quit working on electric a few days after we bought it. Found the wire nuts loose behind the wall switch and a wire out of place. Thought I had it fixed. Nope. Went to where the wire connects to the heater. Loose wire nut and wire out of place. Bingo, that did the trick. The guy that wired the water heater must have had a real bad day.

 

[WSTEPHENS]

My unit is new and we both took showers and have done some washing the water is just warm dont need any cold water to temperate the water. My Sandpiper put out more hot water until you ran out of capacity.

 

[cookie]

WSTEPHENS, welcome to the forum. This is a great place to get and share information.
If your water is just warm, then you need to take a look at a few things.
The biggest offender would be that the outside shower faucets were left turned on. If they are on it will allow the hot and cold water to mix resulting in warm water inside. You need to make sure both hot and cold faucets out there are turned off.
The other thing wort looking at is that your winterizing valves are set to the normal position.
Hope this helps you out. Your hot water should be very hot.

Peace
Dave

 

[alaska dodge]

Do you have the exact model? This way I can tell you exactly where it is. This part is pretty cheap to replace. Depending on your model it will behind a black disk looking thing or on newer ones will be a diode under clear p,attic with a wire connected to it.

For the water only being warm, some of the new water heaters that are rapid recovery require both electric and gas to be on. On the one I had which was an Atwood that is how it was ( currently beta test the Atwood on demand)

bill

 

[ash]

The model I have is a SW-10 DEM.

I changed the electric element again to make sure that wasn't the problem it wasn't still no hot water. The anode rod looks good. I do have a new rocker switch coming to see if that is the problem.

How do you no which connections on the back of the rocker switch and or are on the right prong? Does it matter?

 

[Willym]

Ash, did you do the checks that Dan Mayer listed, and did you find 120volts at the element itself and neutral continuity? If not, you need to back track on the circuit to see where the supply is interrupted. If you do change the rocker switch, it doesn't matter which lead goes on which terminal.

The model I have is a SW-10 DEM.

I changed the electric element again to make sure that wasn't the problem it wasn't still no hot water. The anode rod looks good. I do have a new rocker switch coming to see if that is the problem.

How do you no which connections on the back of the rocker switch and or are on the right prong? Does it matter?

 

[ash]

I did check the white wire to the element with the electricity off. I was unable to check the element with the electricity on because the ground is not visible and I am unsure where to find it. I did check the breaker, both switches and thermostat with power off and i'm getting good continuity. I'm kind of at a loss. Going to call suburban on Monday. Not sure if i'm missing something or the problem is somewhere I can't get. Just might be a bad unit. But I hate to waste the time and money towing it in as I full time in my camper. Kind of disappointing as the RV is less than 6 months old.