electric rear stabilizer jack problems

[waverider117]

Hello everyone
I have a 3250TS and my rear stabilizer has been acting up.
Went to drop the stabilizer and nothing --
First thing I do is bang the motor with a wrench and then it starts working again.
Later it would stop again and I bang it again and it goes.
Anyone have any thoughts what could be up with this
Thanks in advance
waverider

 

[jimtoo]

Hi waverider,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

You don't tell us what year your unit is or if it is still in warranty, but if it is out of warranty I have seen postings of other folks with about the same problem and it usually has been because water damaged (rust) springs for the brushes in the motor. Some have reported that the spring from some of the ballpoint pins can be cut and used to replace the damaged ones. This is if your a little mechanically inclined.

Be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M

 

[myla296]

Hello everyone
I have a 3250TS and my rear stabilizer has been acting up.
Went to drop the stabilizer and nothing --
First thing I do is bang the motor with a wrench and then it starts working again.
Later it would stop again and I bang it again and it goes.
Anyone have any thoughts what could be up with this
Thanks in advance
waverider

My 2010 Road Warrior went out, it seems it was the motor. So, I removed it and am now using my cordless electric drill with an adapter to raise and lower the stabilizers. Since I've heard that the motors are prone to fail anyway, I'm planning on sticking with this method. The adapter for the manual operation was specific, it has a notch in it to fit the manual end so, make sure you look carefully to see if you need the same type.

 

[JohnDar]

When mine went several years ago, I first checked voltages at the switch (no problems there) and used the manual crank on the other end of the stabilizers until I could remove the motor. Sure enough, there was a path of rust into the casing and the brush springs were shot. That's when I did the ball point spring fix and sealed the casing. Been working ever since.

The springs are cheap and finer than the hair on a baby's butt. About half a standard ball point spring puts plenty of pressure on the brushes.

 

[wdk450]

Here is a link to the OEM motor on E-Bay. This is about the lowest price found anywhere. It is like $400 direct from Lippert.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lippert...ash=item2a643d8079:g:7wYAAOSwVupTqLYT&vxp=mtr

 

[waverider117]

Hi Jim
Appreciate the welcome and thank you for all the replies.
The unit is 2012, so no warranty.
Rear stabilizer has been used infrequently and not many miles on the unit.
Every time I bang it, the motor hums away like normal.
I guess I can just ride it out the way it is until I get a complete shutdown.
Not sure if the springs or just removing the unit is within my mechanical capabilities.
Great forum
cheers
gene

 

[codycarver]

Our's started doing the same thing last year. After my expert diagnostic technique (jiggling the wire) I found lose connection. Hope it helps.

 

[wdk450]

Hi Jim

Not sure if the springs or just removing the unit is within my mechanical capabilities.
Great forum
cheers
gene

Gene:
The motor is bolted to the motor support plate by 4 hex head (allen) screws. The wiring cable is 12 volt DC, and only energized when the switch is depressed, so you can safely cut the cable to splice in the new motor.

Owning an RV will turn you into a handyman. If nothing else, keep the E-Bay link to buy the part for a RV repairer to install for you. Also, the manual crank works much easier if the gear reduction system of the motor is removed from the mechanism.

 

[danemayer]

On ours, I think the bolts took a Torx Bit. But the nuts on the backside had to be loosened with a nut driver first. Simple removal once you realize you have to loosen the nuts first.

When installing the new motor, test it before crimping or taping up the wires. If you reverse the polarity, it'll go the reverse direction of how it used to work. If you have auto-leveling, you must get this right.

 

[waverider117]

Thanks for all the great tips and help guys.
I may go out of my comfort zone like you suggested Jim and be forced to become a mechanic/handyman -- who knows I may even like it
cheers
gene