Electric slideout intermittent

ram22

Well-known member
Did you ever find the issue with your slide motor not working? I'm having the same issue now in my RW bedroom slide. It happened over the summer when we were packing up to come home from a trip, and I had to manually retract the slide with my drill. Then when I got home, it was working fine again, and I haven't had trouble again until last night. Slid it out a little to help the wife put sheets on the bed, and it wouldn't go back in. I pulled the switch off the wall and checked with my voltage meter. There is power at the switch, and the switch is working. I have power going to the wires at the motor when the switch is pushed. But the motor does not run. I got my drill and ran the slide closed manually a few inches, then had the wife hit the button and it started working again. I'm certain that it's not a breaker, because I had power at the motor connection wires when pushing the switch, but the motor didn't run. Maybe a dead spot in the motor, or the motor is going bad?

Also, after dealing with that, in the bedroom I can reach the motor without removing any panels... but if my kitchen slide stops working, I have no idea how to remove that upper wood panel to reach the motor. I didn't see any screws holding it, is it just glued or stapled on?? How do I remove it?

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Also, the picture above of the fuse panel labels.. that's how mine looks with scribbled handwriting on them that you cannot make out half of what's written.... pretty ridiculous in a rig like this..

Your experience reads exactly like mine! I want to think re-wrapping the splices and re-installing the 4 wire nuts behind the switch fixed my problem but I can't be sure. I never got a chance to test there for voltage the few times it didn't work. I've been meaning to go back and solder those splices and get rid of the wire nuts all together. Meanwhile, no reoccurrence. As far as your kitchen slide goes, that's what my single 'dinette' slide looked like with trim boards. I had to pull the stapled trim boards off to reach the motor with the cordless drill and attachment. I reinstalled the trim boards with screws so I could get them off and on easier. Also, just FYI, my fuse panel has a fuse labeled 'Slide' which is actually only the light over the dinette in my slide. That fuse has nothing to do with the slide motor (per Heartland Service Dept). I believe only my automatic resetting c/b near the trailer tongue is protecting the slide motor circuit. But it protects the entire D.C. electrical system which does not entirely go unpowered the few times my slide wouldn't work so it's not a c/b problem. Other than 'flat spot' on the slide motor, the only other feasible explanation for me seems to be loose wiring - like the splices behind the switch.


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OldSlowHans

CinC of Everything Else
In the attached photo the red rubber boots are removed. Are these circuit breakers? If so, they must be auto reset only because I don't see any manual reset.

Ok, you're right! The light overhead dinette on slide does not come on, and a nifty red light illuminates on the fuse circuit board where I removed the #8 fuse.

971cb937fd4127ed2d6cd3d3af0e3b60.jpg




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Those three items in the photo are circuit breakers.



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ram22

Well-known member
Those three items in the photo are circuit breakers.



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Yes, and yes. That's all that fuse does on my trailer and those are 3 identical auto re-setting c/b's with a common copper bus tie on one side.


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