Electric Stabalizers not working

[DLT51]

I have a 2011 3055RL with electric rear stabalizers that have stopped working. When I parked it I was able to manually lower them. When I went to raise them this evening (manually) I was unable to turn the crank and the tips that the tool locks onto broke off the shaft. We have power to the switch but nothing from the motor, no click, hum or anything. Any thoughts on what the problem might be and will I have to replace the entire shaft?

 

[cookie]

Welcome to the forum. Lots of great people here willing to help out.
When you say you have power to the switch, do you have power coming out of it?
You might try to jump the switch to rule out a problem with the switch.
There will be other ideas shortly I'm sure.

Peace
Dave

 

[JohnDar]

Most likely (or common) problem is that the hair wire brush springs in the motor have corroded and the brushes are not making contact. That you broke the manual crank port is something else. When mine failed, raising and lowering manually was not very difficult. If your crank rod is still intact, you may be able to remove the motor and use the crank on that side. At least on mine, the fitting for the motor drive shaft was identical to the fitting for the manual crank on the opposite side.

I was able to repair my motor using a section of a ball point pen spring to replace the brush springs and sealing the case/gear box joint with Rescue tape. Been working fine for almost 3 years now.

 

[cookie]

A couple of after thoughts here.
You can try to lower the front of your rig to take any load off the rear stabilizer.
Lubricate all pivot points and use a dry lube on the screw drive.
And finally, I believe that the two "tips" that you broke off are just a roll pin. I'm not at home to verify that. You should be able to just punch the pin out and replace it.

Peace
Dave

 

[brianharrison]

Water (then rust) got into my last trailer rear electric stabilizers - pull the case off and check for crud (should be two long screws). I cleaned mine, put the cover back on and voila, the motor worked. Worth a try.

Brian

 

[TomSt]

On mine it was the switch. the was no shield to protect the salt water spray from the tires from hitting the OPEN switch connectors. Sprayed well with WD and wire brushed now works

 

[katkens]

Water (then rust) got into my last trailer rear electric stabilizers - pull the case off and check for crud (should be two long screws). I cleaned mine, put the cover back on and voila, the motor worked. Worth a try.

Brian

I would have to agree ,mine was full of water. I couldn't believe how much water was in there after pulling the rubber sleeve off. I was surprised after a good cleaning it worked ,added sealer around wire going into it so far so good.....Kenny

 

[wdk450]

Do you think you might have been trying to crank the wrong way?
I guess if the motor is locked up that would lock up the entire cranking mechanism, too, so you might try removing the motor, then trying cranking. If the problem IS the motor, a local starter/alternator repair shop may be able to fix it much cheaper than replacement cost.
Listen to the other folks about sealing the motor up. For as little time as it is used, I think it could be airtight sealed with no overheating damage.

 

[DLT51]

Thanks for all your input folks. We checked the switch out and it's okay. Took the motor off, replaced the roll pin (now that I know what it's called) and it works fine manually. Now at least we can take our time and work on the motor. I appreciate all your help! Semper Fi

 

[Steadfast]

Sounds very much like our 2011, but we were lucky enough to have the jacks locked in the up position. It was the motor that was locked up. I sheared the pin on the manual system also. Fortunately for us, we were still under warranty and the high dollar motor was replaced.